I'm having some weird electrical issues in the dash that my mechanic can't figure out and I'm hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. It started with the entire dash lighting up while I was driving, every darn light, speedometer would bounce between 160 and 0, other gauges would also max out and then drop to zero/empty. Then it would go back to normal for awhile, then it would do it again a while later. When I got home, turned off the car and when I tried to restart, the dash was black, nothing lit up at all and car wouldn't start. Prior to this, I'd been having some weird issues with a check engine light that my mechanic traced back to fuel pressure getting too high when coasting downhill, but he couldn't figure out why that was happening. And I will randomly have the airbag light flash, as well as the volume buttons on the wheel change stations instead of volume. Don't know if all this is related or a bunch of other problems, but I'm mentioning it all here, just in case it's one of the control modules and this list of issues helps narrow it down. So, anyway, I sent the car to my mechanic. He came back stumped. Again. He says that it's something in the gauge cluster that's messed up but isn't sure if he needs to replace the whole thing or the control module associated with it or just one specific component within it. He did discover that when he left his scanner plugged in it, then the dash would light up and he could start and drive the car, which just mystified him further. Any ideas out there on what's going on??? I need help! I love the car but the electrical issue is driving me crazy!
 

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I'm having some weird electrical issues in the dash that my mechanic can't figure out and I'm hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. It started with the entire dash lighting up while I was driving, every darn light, speedometer would bounce between 160 and 0, other gauges would also max out and then drop to zero/empty.

Airbag light can be the clock spring.


Instrument cluster thread-
 
Dash lights and light on the shifter went out in November. I shipped the FEM in December. Received the re-built FEM in January. Easy install and all my problems fixed for $595.
 
Before I sent the FEM out for repair from my parts T Bird, I decided to open up my FEM. All the capacitors were fine, two of
the transistors were bad. I did a search for those transistors and one was available, the other I could not locate any where.

The FEM printed circuit board is a multi layered circuit board, which makes it very difficult to remove components from with
out damaging the circuit board. I paid $395.00 to have mine repaired, and feel it was worth every cent. It has been back
in the car for a full year now, and works great.
 
I've replaced two FEMs on 2 different 2002 cars; its not complicated but you have to be careful of the electrical connector housings in that confined space, you don't want to break any of the securing tabs off on those 19 year old plastic parts. Its a good idea to shoot some DeOxIt electrical cleaner on the connectors while you have them off (available on Amazon).

Neither FEM required reprrogramming. I can't apeak to the later years.
THe 2002 FEMs have a one year only number, 2003-2005 have a different number but its the same for all 3 years:
FEM_Numbers.png
 
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I have now done the FEM song and dance. My car is a 2004. My only symptom was inoperable right side low beam headlamp. I checked all other above indicated symptoms; I had none. I tried three different bulbs in the right headlight socket. None worked on low on the right; all three worked on the low on the left. So below is some information based on my experience.

First, as everyone knows, the 2002 is different from the 2003-2005. This is not only in the FEM itself but also the instructions in the Ford Workshop Manual for the cars. The '02 instructions require removal of the lower instrument panel and courtesy lamp. This is not part of the instructions for the '03-'05 and was not something I needed to do.

Second, even after removing junction box, the removal of the FEM was tough because of those two long studs. It is frustrating but possible. It would have helped if the studs had been shorter but eventually it did come out. The length of the two studs was not an issue when I put the FEM back in the car. I feel there is not a need to shorten those two studs by cutting.

Third, the four horizontal and two vertical connector plugs to the FEM are very brittle (my car is in the very hot/dry southwest and that may make those plugs more fragile). I could not pull any of them out by hand; I needed leverage. Depending on the plug I used some sort of pliers and I did damage, in some measure, the plug plastic perimeter on each one. The two vertical plugs are easier to get off once the FEM has been released from the mounting studs/bolt.

Fourth, putting the FEM back in was easier than taking it out. The length of the two studs did not present a problem; I do not feel that the two studs need to be cut in anticipation of having to do this job again.

Fifth, once the FEM has been re-installed putting the junction box back without cutting/grinding of corner plastic housing that surrounds the left most of the two studs onto which that junction box mounts was not possible for me. Therefore have a Dremel and be ready to cut the junction box plastic.

Sixth I will advise that the following are tools that I needed (some of which I had to buy): interior trim tools; deep 10mm and 8mm sockets; ratchet; extension; Dremel tool with cutting and grinding attachment; two LED flashlights (one with a magnet on the back); variety of pliers; much patience.

It is hard to get in and out of the workspace - for both body and fingers. A dentist much younger than I could do the job quickly. It was work for me.
 
I sent the FEM in for repair. Upon reinstall it works perfectly! I am grateful! Certainly much less expensive than what Ford wanted to "REPLACE". the unit and reinstall. With shipping time it took a little over a week to receive the unit back. I found that sellers wanted $600-800 for a used unit from a wrecker vs. $190 for the repair with a 1 yr. warranty. It was not fun to get the thing out (see picture).
 

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Hello friends!

My 2003 bird has no light in the instrument cluster or shift indicator (makes night time driving a bit strange), and I was thinking its the FEM as I've seen on here, but I scanned for DTCs and it came back with several DTCs for circuit failures: Fuel Sender Circuit, Turn signal/hazard switch signal circuit, Headlamp input circuit, etc. Here's a screenshot from the scanner app.
Some of the DTCs say they're from the Rear module! I'd love some input!

Do you think its the FEM or something in my wiring/fuse boxes?
I replaced all of the FEM and cluster related fuses after the lights went out the first time.

IMG-2667.PNGIMG-2668.PNG
 
Hello friends!

My 2003 bird has no light in the instrument cluster or shift indicator (makes night time driving a bit strange), and I was thinking its the FEM as I've seen on here, but I scanned for DTCs and it came back with several DTCs for circuit failures: Fuel Sender Circuit, Turn signal/hazard switch signal circuit, Headlamp input circuit, etc. Here's a screenshot from the scanner app.
Some of the DTCs say they're from the Rear module! I'd love some input!

Do you think its the FEM or something in my wiring/fuse boxes?
I replaced all of the FEM and cluster related fuses after the lights went out the first time.

Many thanks in advance!View attachment 24300View attachment 24301
If the only problems you are having are with instrument cluster and shift indicator lighting, than your FEM is most likely the cause. As far as the B and U codes that your Veepeak OBDCheck scanner detected, I think those codes were stored when you replaced all of the FEM and cluster related fuses. Are you able to clear those codes with your scanner, and if so do they return?

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
 
Hello

Hoping to get some advice someone on this forum. I'm having the exact same problem as Gene Woodrum had, "While driving I realized the turn signals didn't work and the headlights came on only in the auto position although I can turn the running lights on with the switch. When I tried to use the turn signals the dash lights would go out." understandably it seems Gene gave up on trying to solve the problem after spending a lot of money, God knows I'd do the same, I'm really wondering if this is game over and it's time to trash this Thunderbird or what the deal is I don't want to I really like the car It's my car it hits that sweet spot between sporty car and luxury but I can't sink $5000+ trying to attack an issue That may not be solvable. With my problem/car The car runs great mechanically, besides the issues I'm having, The wipers and convertible top are running fine The radio and heat and heated seats everything still works It's just I have that light dimming problem if you try to use the blinkers or hazard lights. From reading over different things on this forum it seems like it might be an FEM (front electronic module) problem, or maybe an Instrument Cluster problem as my mechanics thought that's what it might be but they don't want to touch this thing as the guy that did work on the Thunderbirds for him retired and they know the nightmares behind the electrical problems with these cars. I want to try to narrow it down so I know what needs to be worked on and taken out, I feel if I can do that I can find another mechanic to at least take the parts out for me so that I can ship them off somewhere to get repaired and then have them put everything back together. If anybody has experiences probably please share your stories and the information you have or if you think it might be the FEM module or instrument cluster let me know if you think I should get both of them repaired and send both of them off I'm even open to that idea as the company I'm looking to send them to seems to do both fixes.
Thank you for any time and consideration anyone takes in reading this and gets back to me.
Gypsy Davy
2004 Thunderbird.
p.s. I just wanted to add I'll be sending my FEM or instrument cluster or maybe both if that's what you feel I should do, I'll be sending them off to automotive module/Midwest teck Mart, They seem to be recommended pretty highly.
 
Hi,

2002 Thunderbird - about 40,000 miles

Recent problem - intermittent

after using the car, and it is fully warm, occasionally, the head lights won't work and the drivers side window won't work. You can put the headlight switch in any position and they won't turn on. Dash lights out. The lights that are on the odometer will change brightness as the light switch changes from auto to off to on. The right window works normal. All turn signals work. After the car cools down overnight, everything works normal. Suggestions please. Thanks
 
My Driver window went down and will not come back up. Top was put down and it will not come back up. Radio does not tunn off when door is opened.
Any suggestions
 
2005 Tbird Passenger Side High Beam Doesn't Work, but driver side works fine.
Replaced bulb & still doesn't work.
Checked voltage and only low beam has voltage.

When high beam is enabled, are both low and high powered?

Any help would be appreciated.
 
The headlamps are controlled by the Front Electronic Module and instrument cluster. The headlamp and multifunction switches are hard-wired to the instrument cluster. When the headlamp switch is in any position, the instrument cluster sends a command to the FEM through the communication network. The FEM processes this information and outputs the appropriate command to the headlamps (which are hard-wired to the FEM). This is the same for the low beams, high beams and flash-to-pass position.

To answer your question, both the high and low beams receive voltage from the Central Junction Box. The FEM supplies the ground to complete the circuit and illuminate either the high or low beams.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

Headlamp Circuit.jpg
 
The headlamps are controlled by the Front Electronic Module and instrument cluster. The headlamp and multifunction switches are hard-wired to the instrument cluster. When the headlamp switch is in any position, the instrument cluster sends a command to the FEM through the communication network. The FEM processes this information and outputs the appropriate command to the headlamps (which are hard-wired to the FEM). This is the same for the low beams, high beams and flash-to-pass position.

To answer your question, both the high and low beams receive voltage from the Central Junction Box. The FEM supplies the ground to complete the circuit and illuminate either the high or low beams.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

View attachment 28975

To test the circuit, is it okay to put a temporarily jumper to ground on the #3 BLK/RED headlight wire to see if the high beam will come on?
 
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Davy did you ever find a cure for your problem, it’s sounds exactly what’s going on with my 2004. Any input would be appreciated
thanks Joe Dawson
 
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To test the circuit, is it okay to put a temporarily jumper to ground on the #3 BLK/RED headlight wire to see if the high beam will come on?
Yes, if you back probe terminal #3, BLK/RED headlight wire, and jumper it to ground the high beam should illuminate. Fuse #9 of the Central Junction Box supplies voltage to both the high and low beam headlight bulbs, but you stated that only the low beam bulb had voltage and there wasn't any voltage at the high beam bulb. If that is true than there is an open circuit at the junction point inside the right headlight.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

Open Circuit.jpg
 
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