Help needed Front Electronic Module FEM 2002-2005 | Page 2 | Ford Thunderbird club group 1955-2005 T-Bird models
  • We're glad you found us via a search engine! Right now, you can join our club absolutely free and unlock member only features like the site search! This notice only appears once! It only takes 30 seconds to register, and we would love to have you as part of the World's largest Thunderbird Forum/Club! Click here to continue

  • 2002-05 Owners. As of August 2022 there is now an entire suspension kit for sale! Scroll down to the bottom of the first post click here.

I have now done the FEM song and dance. My car is a 2004. My only symptom was inoperable right side low beam headlamp. I checked all other above indicated symptoms; I had none. I tried three different bulbs in the right headlight socket. None worked on low on the right; all three worked on the low on the left. So below is some information based on my experience.

First, as everyone knows, the 2002 is different from the 2003-2005. This is not only in the FEM itself but also the instructions in the Ford Workshop Manual for the cars. The '02 instructions require removal of the lower instrument panel and courtesy lamp. This is not part of the instructions for the '03-'05 and was not something I needed to do.

Second, even after removing junction box, the removal of the FEM was tough because of those two long studs. It is frustrating but possible. It would have helped if the studs had been shorter but eventually it did come out. The length of the two studs was not an issue when I put the FEM back in the car. I feel there is not a need to shorten those two studs by cutting.

Third, the four horizontal and two vertical connector plugs to the FEM are very brittle (my car is in the very hot/dry southwest and that may make those plugs more fragile). I could not pull any of them out by hand; I needed leverage. Depending on the plug I used some sort of pliers and I did damage, in some measure, the plug plastic perimeter on each one. The two vertical plugs are easier to get off once the FEM has been released from the mounting studs/bolt.

Fourth, putting the FEM back in was easier than taking it out. The length of the two studs did not present a problem; I do not feel that the two studs need to be cut in anticipation of having to do this job again.

Fifth, once the FEM has been re-installed putting the junction box back without cutting/grinding of corner plastic housing that surrounds the left most of the two studs onto which that junction box mounts was not possible for me. Therefore have a Dremel and be ready to cut the junction box plastic.

Sixth I will advise that the following are tools that I needed (some of which I had to buy): interior trim tools; deep 10mm and 8mm sockets; ratchet; extension; Dremel tool with cutting and grinding attachment; two LED flashlights (one with a magnet on the back); variety of pliers; much patience.

It is hard to get in and out of the workspace - for both body and fingers. A dentist much younger than I could do the job quickly. It was work for me.

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
I sent the FEM in for repair. Upon reinstall it works perfectly! I am grateful! Certainly much less expensive than what Ford wanted to "REPLACE". the unit and reinstall. With shipping time it took a little over a week to receive the unit back. I found that sellers wanted $600-800 for a used unit from a wrecker vs. $190 for the repair with a 1 yr. warranty. It was not fun to get the thing out (see picture).
 

Attachments

  • FEM.jpg
    FEM.jpg
    4.4 MB · Views: 53
Hello friends!

My 2003 bird has no light in the instrument cluster or shift indicator (makes night time driving a bit strange), and I was thinking its the FEM as I've seen on here, but I scanned for DTCs and it came back with several DTCs for circuit failures: Fuel Sender Circuit, Turn signal/hazard switch signal circuit, Headlamp input circuit, etc. Here's a screenshot from the scanner app.
Some of the DTCs say they're from the Rear module! I'd love some input!

Do you think its the FEM or something in my wiring/fuse boxes?
I replaced all of the FEM and cluster related fuses after the lights went out the first time.

IMG-2667.PNGIMG-2668.PNG
 
Hello friends!

My 2003 bird has no light in the instrument cluster or shift indicator (makes night time driving a bit strange), and I was thinking its the FEM as I've seen on here, but I scanned for DTCs and it came back with several DTCs for circuit failures: Fuel Sender Circuit, Turn signal/hazard switch signal circuit, Headlamp input circuit, etc. Here's a screenshot from the scanner app.
Some of the DTCs say they're from the Rear module! I'd love some input!

Do you think its the FEM or something in my wiring/fuse boxes?
I replaced all of the FEM and cluster related fuses after the lights went out the first time.

Many thanks in advance!View attachment 24300View attachment 24301
If the only problems you are having are with instrument cluster and shift indicator lighting, than your FEM is most likely the cause. As far as the B and U codes that your Veepeak OBDCheck scanner detected, I think those codes were stored when you replaced all of the FEM and cluster related fuses. Are you able to clear those codes with your scanner, and if so do they return?

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
 
Hello

Hoping to get some advice someone on this forum. I'm having the exact same problem as Gene Woodrum had, "While driving I realized the turn signals didn't work and the headlights came on only in the auto position although I can turn the running lights on with the switch. When I tried to use the turn signals the dash lights would go out." understandably it seems Gene gave up on trying to solve the problem after spending a lot of money, God knows I'd do the same, I'm really wondering if this is game over and it's time to trash this Thunderbird or what the deal is I don't want to I really like the car It's my car it hits that sweet spot between sporty car and luxury but I can't sink $5000+ trying to attack an issue That may not be solvable. With my problem/car The car runs great mechanically, besides the issues I'm having, The wipers and convertible top are running fine The radio and heat and heated seats everything still works It's just I have that light dimming problem if you try to use the blinkers or hazard lights. From reading over different things on this forum it seems like it might be an FEM (front electronic module) problem, or maybe an Instrument Cluster problem as my mechanics thought that's what it might be but they don't want to touch this thing as the guy that did work on the Thunderbirds for him retired and they know the nightmares behind the electrical problems with these cars. I want to try to narrow it down so I know what needs to be worked on and taken out, I feel if I can do that I can find another mechanic to at least take the parts out for me so that I can ship them off somewhere to get repaired and then have them put everything back together. If anybody has experiences probably please share your stories and the information you have or if you think it might be the FEM module or instrument cluster let me know if you think I should get both of them repaired and send both of them off I'm even open to that idea as the company I'm looking to send them to seems to do both fixes.
Thank you for any time and consideration anyone takes in reading this and gets back to me.
Gypsy Davy
2004 Thunderbird.
p.s. I just wanted to add I'll be sending my FEM or instrument cluster or maybe both if that's what you feel I should do.
 
Hi,

2002 Thunderbird - about 40,000 miles

Recent problem - intermittent

after using the car, and it is fully warm, occasionally, the head lights won't work and the drivers side window won't work. You can put the headlight switch in any position and they won't turn on. Dash lights out. The lights that are on the odometer will change brightness as the light switch changes from auto to off to on. The right window works normal. All turn signals work. After the car cools down overnight, everything works normal. Suggestions please. Thanks
 
My Driver window went down and will not come back up. Top was put down and it will not come back up. Radio does not tunn off when door is opened.
Any suggestions
 
2005 Tbird Passenger Side High Beam Doesn't Work, but driver side works fine.
Replaced bulb & still doesn't work.
Checked voltage and only low beam has voltage.

When high beam is enabled, are both low and high powered?

Any help would be appreciated.
 
The headlamps are controlled by the Front Electronic Module and instrument cluster. The headlamp and multifunction switches are hard-wired to the instrument cluster. When the headlamp switch is in any position, the instrument cluster sends a command to the FEM through the communication network. The FEM processes this information and outputs the appropriate command to the headlamps (which are hard-wired to the FEM). This is the same for the low beams, high beams and flash-to-pass position.

To answer your question, both the high and low beams receive voltage from the Central Junction Box. The FEM supplies the ground to complete the circuit and illuminate either the high or low beams.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

Headlamp Circuit.jpg
 
The headlamps are controlled by the Front Electronic Module and instrument cluster. The headlamp and multifunction switches are hard-wired to the instrument cluster. When the headlamp switch is in any position, the instrument cluster sends a command to the FEM through the communication network. The FEM processes this information and outputs the appropriate command to the headlamps (which are hard-wired to the FEM). This is the same for the low beams, high beams and flash-to-pass position.

To answer your question, both the high and low beams receive voltage from the Central Junction Box. The FEM supplies the ground to complete the circuit and illuminate either the high or low beams.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

View attachment 28975

To test the circuit, is it okay to put a temporarily jumper to ground on the #3 BLK/RED headlight wire to see if the high beam will come on?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
To test the circuit, is it okay to put a temporarily jumper to ground on the #3 BLK/RED headlight wire to see if the high beam will come on?
Yes, if you back probe terminal #3, BLK/RED headlight wire, and jumper it to ground the high beam should illuminate. Fuse #9 of the Central Junction Box supplies voltage to both the high and low beam headlight bulbs, but you stated that only the low beam bulb had voltage and there wasn't any voltage at the high beam bulb. If that is true than there is an open circuit at the junction point inside the right headlight.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

Open Circuit.jpg
 
it seems all connected: the windows wont drop and rise when opening/closing the doors anymore. at first sometimes they would sometimes they wouldn't which is strange .now they dont at all. the horn stopped blowing and then started again, then stopped again. the steering wheel can rise & lower, come toward you but not go back in. the driver side window wont lower even when pushing the button now.. im not going to attempt lowering the ragtop anymore in fear it wont come back up, it was stopping last time i did. The last mechanic i took it to said hydraulic fluid and other fluids were fine. other than that no mechanic wants to touch it, say it would take too many hours to find a diagnosis but they are honest they arent familiar with working on these at all. even at the ford dealership they said their mechanics have no knowledge of these and are only trained on vehicles 2012 and up.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
it seems all connected: the windows wont drop and rise when opening/closing the doors anymore. at first sometimes they would sometimes they wouldn't which is strange .now they dont at all. the horn stopped blowing and then started again, then stopped again. the steering wheel can rise & lower, come toward you but not go back in. the driver side window wont lower even when pushing the button now.. im not going to attempt lowering the ragtop anymore in fear it wont come back up, it was stopping last time i did. The last mechanic i took it to said hydraulic fluid and other fluids were fine. other than that no mechanic wants to touch it, say it would take too many hours to find a diagnosis but they are honest they arent familiar with working on these at all. even at the ford dealership they said their mechanics have no knowledge of these and are only trained on vehicles 2012 and up.
I merged your post with and existing topic that already answers your question. Start reading on page 1.

Get your rebuilt here- https://ebay.us/oqzjki which currently has 4.9 stars and 2,324 Google reviews on Google.
Link to rebuild- https://ebay.us/oqzjki

 
Last edited:
Did you ever figure out what component failed that caused the dash lights not to work?
No I did not, I did not want to mess up the FEM circuit board, so I sent off for repair, and was quickly repaired, reinstalled
and has worked great for two years plus.
 
Hello, Sure would appreciate some advice concerning FEM / REM issues. The problem that has appeared on my 2005 T Bird started with the turn signals not working , and the left signal only works in the right position when the parking lights are on ? Also today the headlights came on by themself while sitting with the car off for a Day . Also notice that the four way flashers are also not working. The car just turned 26,000 miles, Thank you for your Help.
 
Some of the most common problems caused by a defective F.E.M. are:
  • Dash illumination problems (No dash light, no shifter light)
  • Head lights not working: Head lights will not turned on
  • Front turn signal problems
  • Driver’s side window does not drop when the door is open
  • No wipers, no Horn. The oil light is on
  • The convertible top is not working properly
  • Problems with battery drain
  • Power Steering is stiff (Code - C1925)
  • Shift interlock malfunction
Some of the most common problems caused by a defective R.E.M. are:
  • Door locks inoperable
  • Convertible top lower/raise
  • Fuel pump power control, and level signal & sender signal detection
  • Rear stop and turn signals are inoperable
  • Rear parking lights are inoperable
  • Passenger side window concerns
  • High mounted stop lamp is inoperable
  • Rear left and right side lights are inoperable
  • Fuel pump primary circuit fault (Code - P1237)
doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
 
Replace the FME module and the battery. All – warning lights flash on and off gauges flash, operating in a non-operating like every 10 seconds. What should I look for? How do I correct it?
 
Since you had the FEM disconnected, are all of the FEM connectors fully seated in the FEM? If so, start by checking the fuses to make sure that when you replaced the FEM that it didn't cause an open circuit across one of the fuses. Remember, there are 3 fuse boxes in the car, one near the battery by the spare tire, one under the right kick panel inside the car and one under the hood. Next, using a scan tool, not just an OBD code reader, check for faults stored in all control modules. Fault codes might help you determine the cause of your warning lights and gauge concerns. Note any DTCs and freeze frame data that are stored before clearing the fault codes. After clearing the fault codes do the warning lights and gauges operate normally? After clearing the fault codes do any fault codes return?

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
 
Back
Top