TOP FIVE 02-05 T-Bird Problems | Page 3 | Ford Thunderbird club group 1955-2005 T-Bird models

TOP FIVE 02-05 T-Bird Problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter Donnymack
  • Start date Start date
My 19000 mile '02 ran great when I bought it two years ago, but the previous owner had "hot-wired" the instrument cluster to make the dash lights work ALL the time as the FEM was bad. I corrected the instrument cluster wiring and replaced the dash bulbs with LEDs and replaced the FEM. The only other issue (31,000 miles now) was a $29 A/C sensor in the driver's footwell that the Ford dealer mis-diagnosed and told me it would be $1500 to repair the A/C. The paint on the trunk is a bit faded but the car is garaged when not in use so I'm leaving that alone. Other than that its a sexy, fun driver. In retrospect I prob would have bought an '03-'05 and avoided some of the pitfalls of the '02 unique parts.

FEM (Front Electronics Module) seens to be a common enough failure, usually affecting lighting, windows and sometimes power steering, not a huge deal to get fixed but it takes some finagling to R&R the units and then some "down time" while they are off for repair. Others have mentoned the rubber protective boots for suspension members deteriorate uncommonly fast; other than that its the usual problems 20 year old cars can encounter.

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
I`m on the fence about buying 2002 to 2005. There seems to be so much trouble with cars and I would just like to drive and enjoy the car and not have to worry about a break down.
 
There are more reliable cars that you can buy, but for charm and nostalgia the T-bird is a strong competitor compared to many other cars. I have owned a 2004 model for more than ten years and it has been highly reliable as an occasional use second car. More so, for example, than my primary use German car bought new and driven more often. This superb forum is a big help in learning about, and maintaining, Ford Thunderbirds. Keep in mind that we owners write about car problems here, not about the many miles of happy, trouble free, driving that we more typically enjoy. I'm keeping my Ford TBird. It's a real compliment getter.
 
There seems to be so much trouble
According to who? When you read posts online people who have a problem are obviously going to post for help so it seems bad. The cars are 20 years old, if you are worried about reliability, buy a new car.
 
I`m on the fence about buying 2002 to 2005. There seems to be so much trouble with cars and I would just like to drive and enjoy the car and not have to worry about a break down.
I have a 2004 Merlot Thunderbird that I purchased in 2021. My wife and I took it on Route 66 from Chicago to California and back home to Ohio via the northern route. We were on the road 28 days and 6,300 miles. There something about driving a Thunderbird on Route 66, on a sunny 75 degree day with the top down that can’t be described. I also have a 1955 Thunderbird that I drive locally 1,000 miles per year. As you can tell I would rather drive and enjoy my cars than just let them sit in a garage and look at them.

When I was going to purchase my 2004, I drove it normally and then aggressively to make sure there was no delayed transmission engagement at low speeds and turning corners, and there were no hard jerks of the transmission engaging.

Check out everything electrical, the electronic modules are big ticket items. Make sure the dash lights and shift indicator lights work, if they don't the the Front Electrical Module is probably defective.

Make sure the ignition coils and the wiper motor bracket seal campaign were performed.

You may want to check and make sure the latches for the top unfasten and fasten and don't forget to operate the convertible top. The tonneau cover for when the convertible is folded down and the hard top are optional features. You can choose the color of the optional hardtop based on the exterior color of your car.

Make sure the car comes with two sets of keys; a replacement set keys from Ford are costly.

Put the vehicle on a lift so you can check the brakes, tires, suspension, and the underside for any leaks or damage. Deteriorating suspension bushings are common.

Connect a scan tool, (if you have one), to the car's Data Link Connector so you can check to see if there are any fault codes in any of the control modules.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
 
2004. Auto Temperature Control issue (hot one side) fixed at dealer. Plastic thermostat housing! left me stranded. Duncan Ford in Blacksburg VA has been excellent. At 90k miles now. Still strong. VERY comfortable seats. Not the fastest but quick enough. Beautiful car.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
2004. Auto Temperature Control issue (hot one side) fixed at dealer. Plastic thermostat housing! left me stranded. Duncan Ford in Blacksburg VA has been excellent. At 90k miles now. Still strong. VERY comfortable seats. Not the fastest but quick enough. Beautiful car.
The "Plastic" housing lasted about 20 years after it was molded. 🙂 The metal ones get pitting etc., so you would not necessarily be better off. The plastic also holds up better in situations where people do not keep up with the coolant swaps.
 
  • Like/Thanks
Reactions: rdj
1- click the word carfax and watch the video.
2- have a qualified mechanic look over the car on a lift.
3. Read posts above.
When I was looking most cars with that kind of mileage, most are going to have front suspension joints that need replacement. This is what a mechanic can easily help you determine. The main reason that these joints go out is the rubber boots crack and deteriorate so the grease that it in there is no longer helping to maintain the joint. My car had low mileage so I have been successful in wrapping my joints with flex tape and zip ties, re-packing them with grease which is the poor mans approach if the joints are all good.
 
If you are only looking at 2004, then the Special Edition Pacific Coast Roadster may catch your eye. If so there are a couple of things to look for. 1. OEM Parade boot. $1 to 2.5K to get one. 2. Decorative door panels. Only on this model. Look for seat belt impact damage. These appear to be non fixable and not available. 3. Upholstery: The center panel of both seats is NOT leather and the material is not available to the best of my efforts. If stiches are pulling and leather cracked it cannot be salvaged. New leather upholstery is $3K because these are not standard colors. You cannot find them. Custom made in Texas and fit locally along with seat rebuild and new seat heater(s).
Good luck. Bob
 
  • Like/Thanks
Reactions: rdj
When I was looking most cars with that kind of mileage, most are going to have front suspension joints that need replacement. This is what a mechanic can easily help you determine. The main reason that these joints go out is the rubber boots crack and deteriorate so the grease that it in there is no longer helping to maintain the joint. My car had low mileage so I have been successful in wrapping my joints with flex tape and zip ties, re-packing them with grease which is the poor mans approach if the joints are all good.
Good advice, and I would also add to check the condition of the COPs. This is the number one issue for these cars. In fact the thread is pinned at the top of the forum. You'll need to remove the plastic plug covers--especially the driver's side. That one can be a little tough--there's one screw back by the brake booster that's hard to take out without a small gear wrench--but well worth the time. I wish I had done it before agreeing to price.

It will be a little work and the current owner might be resistant, but if they're anxious to sell it could help you negotiate a better price for the car. The parts are not that expensive if you use the links provided on this site, but cleaning up and replacing all this can be cumbersome--especially if you're not expecting it. Here's what I found about two months after buying the car:
1691948540903.jpeg
1691948576298.jpeg
1691948607584.jpeg
 
The cause of the ignition coil failures are either oil or water leaking down in the ignition coil wells. Oil in the ignition coil wells is caused by a defective valve cover gasket and water in the ignition coil wells is caused by a defective wiper motor bracket seal.

The condensation on the ignition coils that tommy c is showing us is caused by a defective wiper motor bracket seal. If you don't replace the defective wiper motor bracket seal, the new ignition coils will suffer the same fate.

To install a new wiper motor bracket seal:

1. Remove the cowl panel grille

2. Remove the wiper motor bracket seal and discard.

3. Clean the wiper motor bracket sealing area using Bug and Tar Remover, or equivalent.

4. Install a new wiper motor bracket seal (5W4Z-54021A46-A), centering the seal on the hole of the cowl panel grille.

Bracket Seal.jpg

5. Reinstall the cowl panel grille.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
 
Purchased new(2002).... currently have 74,600 on the clock. For the 1st 40,000 miles, normal wear and tear and routine dealer service items. Since then, A/C replaced, spare tire blew up in the trunk, 3rd set of tires, new brakes, 3rd battery, constant oil leaks, intermittent engine light, currently dash lights do not work, heat and cold at the same time, 2ndset of coils, leather seat attachment on passenger side is constantly coming apart, headlights have that "fogged" look(always garaged), under dash plastic panel on drivers side cracked and fell down while I was driving.... Yes, I still love the car, and has a great CD player!
My cd player broke, coil packs oil leaks, p/s press switch bad a/c blows hot one side cold other.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
In my experience the drivetrains are pretty reliable, I know you asked about the 2004/2005 models but just in case you are attracted to an earlier car, the 2002 has a hydraulic radiator fan that I'm not a fan of (see what I did there?). Most of the harder-to-solve issues are with the computers and there are several in the car.

Other than the usual checks to make sure there are is no smoke, weird noises and that the car runs, starts, accelerates, turns and brakes correctly, check the dashboard lights....and the console shift indicator light. If these are non-operational its almost invariably the FEM (Front Electronics Module) requiring removal and repair - AND again, THAT module is unique on the 2002 whereas 2003-2005 are interchangeable.
 
Diane ane I have had our '05 since new and it has 48k. It's had a few problems that are minor but expensive but generally a wonderful beautiful and powerful car that still looks and runs new. A lot of the problems with these 'birds' were ironed out by the time the '05 came out . If we get another one it will be an '05. 25mpg on the road.
 
Here is what may seem trivial but is a definite hazard. The reflection on a sunny day on the dash is dangerous. I am using several dull black plastic panels on my 2005 Silver anniversary w 104,000 miles.
 
I am looking at an 04 with 47k miles. coils replaced ac compressor replaced and in very nice shape. silver and beige seats /top all in very nice condition and a hard top that looks great as well.
14.5k I will have to ship it 400 bucks I have always had vetts but I am tired of no room for the boss. Are these cars a dependable and fun drivers
We have an 03 with 182, 000 miles. minimal problems and we enjoy the car all summer. It is unique and get many compliments on it.
Changed coils about 7 years ago. Evaporator needed replacing about 4 years ago. And 1 problem is the thermostat housing that leaks replaced 3 times about a $450.00 repair.
 
Back
Top