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TOP FIVE 02-05 T-Bird Problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter Donnymack
  • Start date Start date
ChrisTBird said:
what happened with the suspension? mine is squeaking like old bed springs in the back, havent started looking at what it could be yet. 140k miles not sure whats been done before 115k
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On my car I noticed the front ball joint boots were rotted, I then looked at all the other rubber suspension parts, and noticed
most of them were rotted also. My rear suspension squeaked, and made knocking noises going over big bumps. When I took
the rear suspension parts off, I noticed the rear bushings were in bad shape. This is most likely what you have.

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Well this might be in other postings as well. I’ve reached the 55k mark and was just cruising around the neighborhood and heard a groaning noise. The
Engine temperature gauge was full hot. Had it towed to local Bluebonnet Motors and they found a crack in the thermostat housing. Only $1500.00 later I was back on the road.
I did have all fluids changed at the 50k mark.
Are there any more surprises I need to look out for?
 
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Top 5 problems: Don't have 5, guess we're pretty lucky. My '04 has 30k miles, bought used 8-years ago, is a one-two day a month driver. We've put a total of 16k miles on it in 8 years. We've been pretty satisfied thus far with Da Bird but limp mode issue is starting to become annoying.
1.) COPS - I replaced all spark plugs and CPS this year (myself)
2.) Limp Mode Throttle Actuator (so says the OBDII scanner) - drops power, goes into limp mode, resets when shut down and restarted

No other real issues to speak of. Oh, my mechanic says the suspension boots are deteriorated. Since Da Bird only sees fair weather, I'm waiting to replace when suspension needs work. That, I believe, will be quite a while from now, when I'm retired and back home in AZ
 
I have 3 T Birds, a white 02 with 12,800 miles, a red 02 with 13,900 miles, and a black 02 with 129978 miles. The white, and the red Birds are
our fun to drive cars, the black Bird is for parts when needed. The white Bird I have owned now for 18 years, and has been trouble free,
the red Bird I have owned for two and a half years, and it has been trouble free also. All I have done is change rotted suspension parts
on both cars. Everything works perfectly, not sure why I have two great cars. The black bird I have had for 10 months now, and the
previous owner did some work on it, because she gave me all the receipts. I have also discovered that her mechanic was not very
good at putting parts back in the car correctly, and left a lot of nuts, and bolts out. The black Bird with 129k miles has no oil leaks, always starts
even when not started in 5 or 6 weeks. It even has the original hydraulic cooling fan that still works, and original ac compressor that
still works. I did have to get the FEM rebuilt, so I would have a good spare part when needed. So T Birds are a good reliable car for me.
 
edward301 said:
I have 3 T Birds, a white 02 with 12,800 miles, a red 02 with 13,900 miles, and a black 02 with 129978 miles. The white, and the red Birds are
our fun to drive cars, the black Bird is for parts when needed. The white Bird I have owned now for 18 years, and has been trouble free,
the red Bird I have owned for two and a half years, and it has been trouble free also. All I have done is change rotted suspension parts
on both cars. Everything works perfectly, not sure why I have two great cars. The black bird I have had for 10 months now, and the
previous owner did some work on it, because she gave me all the receipts. I have also discovered that her mechanic was not very
good at putting parts back in the car correctly, and left a lot of nuts, and bolts out. The black Bird with 129k miles has no oil leaks, always starts
even when not started in 5 or 6 weeks. It even has the original hydraulic cooling fan that still works, and original ac compressor that
still works. I did have to get the FEM rebuilt, so I would have a good spare part when needed. So T Birds are a good reliable car for me.
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My 2004 T Bird (bought new) had an excellent performance record until i hit about 85k-90k miles. Since then, i have replaced a lot of suspension parts, have had error codes popping up all the time. Replace all of the coil packs (some three times) and last two years intermittent issues running hot. I just replaced the radiator ($760.00), and the darn thing overheated again, i saw the mechanic bent the spring loaded hose clamp, so it probably does not have enough strength now. I bought a traditional hose clamp; that should solve the issue. I have to agree with another member who said they are not $40,000 cars; i paid around $41k. I love the car, but it's starting to annoy me now.

i forgot to mention, my 04 Bird's rear end started whining about six months ago, not sure if it's detectable outside car, but inside it is very obvious.
 
Our '05 was bought new, now has 43k on the clock and still looks and runs and like brand new. Over the years some typical problems arose: cop's, thermostat housing, a sensor behind the dash that was quoted as 1,500 and the mechanic figured out how to do it without taking out he dash, final cost 700.00 ( at a dealership). A Mass air sensor also went bad. One set of tires and one set of new brake pads. I also bought new chrome-strips for around the windshield.
We are very happy with the dependability and quality of our bird and it still turns more heads than most cars. Well worth the maintenance and gets 25mpg. Ford dependability, quality and long lasting all the way !! All V8's
 
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Donnymack said:
I'm glad you haven't had any problems. Buying mine used comes with its problems but the body and interior are excellent. I have 68000 miles and it's a daily driver for me. Ignition coils, air conditioning have been problems. the center part of dash board, radio, top control and seat heater controls keep coming loose.
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You should check the suspension, front and rear. The rubber grommets that holds the grease are probably rotten and are not there. That has been a issued. I have replaced the suspension on two 2005 TBirds, one with 68000 and the other with 58000 miles.
 
gbaroni05 said:
I purchased my 2005 50th Anniv Edition New and have not had any quality issues thus far but she only has 7,000 miles on her. What quality issues have you experienced?
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My 2004 still hauls, but around 50k miles the driveline started wearing out, by 85k miles pretty much everything needed replacement. I have replaced many components (struts, 1 lower control arm, strut rods and stabilizers), but now at 114k miles, all 7 remaining A Arms need replacing, the front strut rods are metal on metal, the rear end has been whining since about 85k miles, and I've recently gained a tapping noise, which i believe is an exhaust leak. I'm on the second soft top and it needs replacing. I bought mine new, so i agree it could have been built a little better. Did i mention trim is de-laminating and it needs a new paint job?
It has been fun, but i think I've come to the end of the line. I have a 1950 Ford Deluxe w/302 and AOD, so i have another car to work on.
 
burrpenick said:
I've been spoiled w/reliable and inexpensive to fix mostly Asian cars
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All imported cars cost a ton more to fix on parts. I paid 285 bucks to fix the EVAP Canister on my Mustang. Friend paid 800 on his Toyota truck. Also, as published in many articles in recent years, imported cars like Toyota & Honda are no longer the reliable cars they once were. I've heard of Nissan mufflers rusting out in 6 years in the south.

I heard this same tall tale in the car business & from friends for years. They also have a tendency to forget about repairs done and tell everyone its "never had a problem". Lol
 
constable said:
Trans,rear,shocks, control arms, engine(heads-valves-Radiator) tires, brakes, alignment, new seats(picture enclosed)Exhaust system, New Radio AVX600ex, Parts of AC, Headers, rear camera, tinted windows, Car shield(3M)
View attachment 16251
Click to expand...
Love those seats!

burrpenick said:
THANKS for all the replies, but the Seller sent a LIST (I asked) of what he has done over the 11 yrs of ownership. WAY more than I even think about. I've been spoiled w/reliable and inexpensive to fix mostly Asian cars- no way I'd go back to something like this money pit! See attached- it pretty much mirrors what you guys said........but the costs w/cover buying another one!
06/16/20 Replace exhaust manifold gasket, catalytic converter, 4 0xygen sensors, etc. $1,064
05/08/20 Replace radiator, coolant,etc. $610
05/05/20 Replace tie rods, all plugs & coil pack, front brake rotors & pads,

upper control arms both sides front, $2,015
12/16/19 Replace front & rear struts and shock assembly $265
12/10/19 Replace thermostat housing (part was bad – FORD replaced) $133
11/06/19 Replace EGR valve, ABS brake sensors $481
07/22/19 Replace starter $325
??? Replace Cold air actuator in AC in dash $915
06/22/19 Replace hood lift/support, replace Defrost air door actuator $634
12/28/18 Replace serpentine belt $120
04/25/18 Replace right front hub assembly, sway bar links, etc. $508
12/18/18 Replace thermostat housing assembly, rear brake pads $735
11/01/16 Replace AC coolant control valve assembly $849
Replace cold air actuator $915
05/09/16 Remove/replace coolant reservoir $231
02/07/16 Replace heater control $238
12/15/15 Replace thermostat $551
10/27/15 Replace upper radiator hose, coolant, thermostat and housing $438
11/19/15 Replace rear tube assembly by thermostat $322
06/26/15 Replace 4 coils, all spark plugs, ignition coil $746
07/09/14 Replace both front hub assemblies, brake pads, fuel filter $550
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WOW! That's a LOT of work. I'd say first, never take it to that dealer or wherever previous owner had it maintained...
I've had my 04 for about 14 years, and knock on wood, nothing like that list.
I've had the typical issues, COP, A(C, battery, etc. Have replaced all tires and spare, normal things for a car of that age
Runs great, very fun to drive
Sounds like that one is pretty much an all new car...
 
Well to begin with I was looking at the XK8, but just as I was getting serious the market jumped and the prices almost doubled, so I started looking at the tbird, even though I feel the jag is by far the sexier car. I ended up with a Tuxedo Black on Black 2003 with just under 85k on it, beautiful with the Hard Top, just a few minor blemishes, nothing really stands out, the soft top looks like it has not been up or down much. The top of the engine looks like you could, well, eat off of it, I noticed that the covers over the coil packs were scuffed, I took that as a good sign. After driving for an hour test drive I bought it. Drove it 200 miles home, everything was great. Parked in the spot where my 35 year old F 150 had been parked for years, nice clean dry concrete. Was I surprised the next time I took her out for a drive there were no less than 5 different puddles under the bird and when I came back home, oil smell was present inside the cabin and when I shut her off, smoke bellowed out from under the hood, I opened the hood to find smoke pouring off the Exhaust manifold rear of the drivers side and a wisp of smoke off the passenger side front of the exhaust manifold. Nothing was visable from the top side and I have not gotten it to the shop to look underneath, the temp gauge sits in the normal position. I see many mention of the jaguar years, sorry to tell all, that all of these birds have the Jag engine trans and suspension in common with the jag. Many of the Lincoln Ls Models have the same engine trans and electrical componets as well as interior pieces, the dash parts are the same for example, so don't hunt for bird specific parts when scouring the yards or asking for bird specific parts when there are a million Lincoln Ls's out there. I hope my oil problems are not too hard to fix. I had never seen a flat oil pan, except for on an Indy car before.....
 
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madmacs said:
so don't hunt for bird specific parts when scouring the yards or asking for bird specific parts when there are a million Lincoln Ls's out there.
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*some* of the parts are interchangeable, but not all. Only 262,900 Lincoln LS's were built over 7 years or 37,557 per year average, so production on them was poor as well which likely had a big part with Ford getting rid of both models.
 
  • Air Condition: Several visits to Ford Dealer with major work and new parts costing in excess of $1200. Problem never corrected by Dealer and finally corrected by independent mechanic who repaired/replaced switches and valves in Duct System. Doubtful that the parts replaced by Dealer were ever the problem.
  • Radio and CD Player: Ford Dealer wanted over $500 to replace Radio system. Car Tunes removed Radio from Dash, removed stuck Discs, re soldered several joints re installed for $75. Problem solved.
  • Replace Mufflers: After 50,000 miles, both Mufflers installed by Independent Muffler Shop for $680.
  • Air Bag warning light: Due to the level of concern with safety issues, I returned to a Ford Dealer for repairs. After $200 to diagnose the problem as a faulty Drivers Side Air Bag, the Dealer sadly reported that replacement Air Bags were not available and he could do nothing except be paid for the diagnostic work. I contacted Ford Motor Company and they ignored me. I contacted the National Highway Safety Commission and they said there were not enough complaints and they would not take action. In other words, “Screw You”, your safety and survival in the event of a crash does not matter to Ford or the Government who has pushed restraining system down our throats for 40 years. I stopped driving the car and started to look for help and a solution. Service replacement Air Bags were definitely not available and a critical national recall was underway for faulty Air Bags by all car manufactures and only salvaged Air Bags could be purchased from auto salvage yards. Not a good situation and the opportunities to sell or trade-in a vehicle without mandatory air bags were not good. Thank God, information on the Internet and from my independent Mechanic revealed that the Clock Spring; locate in the Steering wheel, often caused incorrect warning signals. Again, service parts where hard to find but at a premium price, I acquired the part and my mechanic installed it. Problem solved and more testimony to the corrupt practices of new car dealers. They seem to think T-Bird owners have deep, pockets and are very naïve to have been suckered into buying the over priced car in the first place.
  • Hard steering & Exhaust leak: During the same service visit about the Air Bag the steering system was looked at due to very hard steering and my friendly Ford Dealer replaced the steering gear and related parts and fluids for over $700. At the same service visit he was asked to see what was causing heavy exhaust odors and fumes from under the hood on Drivers side. No exhaust leak found, but $ 200 for 2 hours labor to find that out. Back to steering problem. I tested the steering system before leaving the Dealership and found no improvement. I told the Service manager my concern and asked if he checked out the electrical assist controlled by one of the Control Modules and he knew nothing about the system. I am currently gathering information on how the system works and will confront him with the information and demand a refund. I returned to my God sent Mechanic to check out the exhaust leak because the car was not drivable with the leak coming into the car. He quickly found a missing bolt intended to attach the manifold to the exhaust system. A $4 Bolt and $40 labor solved the problem.
  • Rear Window becoming loose from soft convertible top: I see this problem a lot on Posts shown in T-Bird Web Sites. Most owners are asking for DIY advice or reporting on their own fix. The correct way to re attach the Glass to the soft Top is to use Urethane. This is the material used to attach Windshields and is expensive if you want to do the work yourself. For your DIY. Make sure all surfaces are clean and dry before applying the Urethane. Any other glues may do more harm than good due to durability and stiffness issues. I strongly recommend a professional at a convertible shop do the repair. They have the correct glue and cleaning agents that will cost you around $50 to purchase and most important, they know how to position the top to assure proper positioning and contact pressure during the curing process. The price will range from $50 to $100 depending on the area of repair.


I hope my words provided some valuable and useful information and I would be pleased to answer any questions or receive any comments, advice or criticism.



Respectively submitted.



Bill s
 
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