TOP FIVE 02-05 T-Bird Problems

the Dealer sadly reported that replacement Air Bags were not available and he could do nothing except be paid for the diagnostic work. I contacted Ford Motor Company and they ignored me. I contacted the National Highway Safety Commission and they said there were not enough complaints and they would not take action. In other words, “Screw You”, your safety and survival in the event of a crash does not matter to Ford or the Government who has pushed restraining system down our throats for 40 years. I stopped driving the car and started to look for help and a solution. Service replacement Air Bags were definitely not available and a critical national recall was underway for faulty Air Bags by all car manufactures and only salvaged Air Bags could be purchased from auto salvage yards. Not a good situation and the opportunities to sell or trade-in a vehicle without mandatory air bags were not good. Thank God, information on the Internet and from my independent Mechanic revealed that the Clock Spring; locate in the Steering wheel, often caused incorrect warning signals. Again, service parts where hard to find but at a premium price, I acquired the part and my mechanic installed it. Problem solved and more testimony to the corrupt practices of new car dealers.

If you are worried about "your safety and survival" why are you driving a car that was likely built 14 years ago? Many advancements have been made in auto safety and performance since 2000's. Do you also expect Ford to produce and sell new OEM parts for a 1962 Ford Thunderbird? You need to realize that you are driving a VERY OLD used car. Also, It did not sell well when new, so there are few third-party parts vendors that make parts for the car.
 
I bought a beautiful, show-room clean 2003 Thunderbird Deluxe Hardtop/Convertible with the 3.9 liter Jaguar engine in August of 2019. Only 56,000 miles on her. Purchased from a Ford dealership - the previous owner collected cars and traded her and a Corvette in to purchase an SUV. She was on the market less than 48 hrs., and 5 people were trying to buy her, but I called and put a deposit down. No time to do research on her - just had to hope and pray she was a good car. After putting 350 miles on her, that darn engine light and wrench lit-up on the dash, and she went into "limp home" mode. ONLY 25 mph. Good thing I was near home. Took her to my ace mechanics here at a classic car dealership. The original owner never did the recommended "recalls" on the COPS. All 8 were original from 2003. 2 had gone bad. I spent close to $1,000.00 and replaced all 8 of them. After another 200 miles - same darn thing - "limp home" mode and that damned wrench symbol. (I've learned to HATE that darn wrench!!!). The codes were indicating COPS again. Couldn't be - just replaced them all. They called Ford and were told to check the ECM - the main computer. It had malfuctioned, (due to the COPS?). Ford no longer makes the ECM's for the 2002-2005 T-Birds. I didn't want a re-built one. We sent the old one off for repair. They called and said it was completely "fried" and couldn't be re-built. We finally found a brand new one, after weeks of searching, (She's been in the shop since April 14th), we found a brand new ECM out west somewhere with a lifetime warranty. They "flashed" it, and are sending it here to be programmed and installed. Then the car has to finish the programming itself. This will cost $1,655.00. After that, she has to be driven and tested to make sure the Throttle Module wasn't damaged. If it was, that's another $850.00 that I don't have. (I pray THAT isn't damaged.) When everything is said and done - I hope the problems are cured. She is a beautiful car - but I don't trust her, right now. I will rent a car for out-of-town trips until she gains my trust for anything but short, close-to-home driving. I love the T-Bird and want to keep her, but darn she's costing me a LOT of money! I am NOT a rich person. I retire in 2 years. She's supposed to be my retirement car. I've done a lot of reading about the "Little 'Birds, and IF I HAD KNOWN about the problems they had - I would NOT have bought her. Expensive lesson learned. I hope she can be repaired - and run like she is supposed to - RELIABLY! I have never had the kind of problem with any of my T-Birds that I've had with this one. Thank goodness I didn't trade my 1995 T-Bird LX!!!! She's 25 years old, but running great! Never had any problems with her, besides routine maintenance. I drive her to my second job and back. 20 miles per week. At that rate, she'll theoretically last the rest my lifetime....... But, that 2003 has been a NIGHTMARE!!!!!
I could have written your post about my '03! Bought her from a used car dealer with 61,000 miles, and the owner had a pile of repair documents and receipts which I had no idea about when I purchased it.

An absolutely beautiful black bird, in very clean showroom condition. She ran great when I test drove her in city and freeway conditions for 30 minutes. No issues, so I made an offer the dealer accepted and took her home.

No problems for the first 7 000 miles
Then at 68,000, the dreaded wrench light took her into limp mode. Spent about $2,000 to replace various sensors and connectors related to an intermittent PCM. Ran great for a few hundred miles, then the PCM connector failed.

Ford dealer let it set for three months and couldn't find a PCM or connector. They jury-rigged it and got it running again, but said the PCM would probably fail, which it did within a month. More $$$ doen the drain!

So I took it to a top-notch transmission shop. The owner, a master mechanic, was able to locate a remanufactured PCM and reprogrammed it to the bird's VIN.

It's been running great since that time, and now has 74,000 miles. But like you. I'm very squeamish about going on long trips! So she stays close to home, driven once or twice a week, to local car shows and events, and stays garaged otherwise.

Whenever I'm in the garage, I can't help but marvel at her sexy, gleaming black figure, just a drop-dead gorgeous Bird! But in ths back of my mind, I wonder...will she leave ME "drop-dead" on the side of the road next time we go for a ride?!?
 
My 19000 mile '02 ran great when I bought it two years ago, but the previous owner had "hot-wired" the instrument cluster to make the dash lights work ALL the time as the FEM was bad. I corrected the instrument cluster wiring and replaced the dash bulbs with LEDs and replaced the FEM. The only other issue (31,000 miles now) was a $29 A/C sensor in the driver's footwell that the Ford dealer mis-diagnosed and told me it would be $1500 to repair the A/C. The paint on the trunk is a bit faded but the car is garaged when not in use so I'm leaving that alone. Other than that its a sexy, fun driver. In retrospect I prob would have bought an '03-'05 and avoided some of the pitfalls of the '02 unique parts.

FEM (Front Electronics Module) seens to be a common enough failure, usually affecting lighting, windows and sometimes power steering, not a huge deal to get fixed but it takes some finagling to R&R the units and then some "down time" while they are off for repair. Others have mentoned the rubber protective boots for suspension members deteriorate uncommonly fast; other than that its the usual problems 20 year old cars can encounter.
 
I'm in the market to buy a 03-05 Thunderbird. This is the only car my wife ever notices on the road. She owned a T-bird in high school and I'd like to surprise her with one. What are the pitfalls when purchasing this generation thunderbird? Expense problems to fix when taking new ownership?
 
I`m on the fence about buying 2002 to 2005. There seems to be so much trouble with cars and I would just like to drive and enjoy the car and not have to worry about a break down.
 
There are more reliable cars that you can buy, but for charm and nostalgia the T-bird is a strong competitor compared to many other cars. I have owned a 2004 model for more than ten years and it has been highly reliable as an occasional use second car. More so, for example, than my primary use German car bought new and driven more often. This superb forum is a big help in learning about, and maintaining, Ford Thunderbirds. Keep in mind that we owners write about car problems here, not about the many miles of happy, trouble free, driving that we more typically enjoy. I'm keeping my Ford TBird. It's a real compliment getter.
 
There seems to be so much trouble
According to who? When you read posts online people who have a problem are obviously going to post for help so it seems bad. The cars are 20 years old, if you are worried about reliability, buy a new car.
 
I`m on the fence about buying 2002 to 2005. There seems to be so much trouble with cars and I would just like to drive and enjoy the car and not have to worry about a break down.
I have a 2004 Merlot Thunderbird that I purchased in 2021. My wife and I took it on Route 66 from Chicago to California and back home to Ohio via the northern route. We were on the road 28 days and 6,300 miles. There something about driving a Thunderbird on Route 66, on a sunny 75 degree day with the top down that can’t be described. I also have a 1955 Thunderbird that I drive locally 1,000 miles per year. As you can tell I would rather drive and enjoy my cars than just let them sit in a garage and look at them.

When I was going to purchase my 2004, I drove it normally and then aggressively to make sure there was no delayed transmission engagement at low speeds and turning corners, and there were no hard jerks of the transmission engaging.

Check out everything electrical, the electronic modules are big ticket items. Make sure the dash lights and shift indicator lights work, if they don't the the Front Electrical Module is probably defective.

Make sure the ignition coils and the wiper motor bracket seal campaign were performed.

You may want to check and make sure the latches for the top unfasten and fasten and don't forget to operate the convertible top. The tonneau cover for when the convertible is folded down and the hard top are optional features. You can choose the color of the optional hardtop based on the exterior color of your car.

Make sure the car comes with two sets of keys; a replacement set keys from Ford are costly.

Put the vehicle on a lift so you can check the brakes, tires, suspension, and the underside for any leaks or damage. Deteriorating suspension bushings are common.

Connect a scan tool, (if you have one), to the car's Data Link Connector so you can check to see if there are any fault codes in any of the control modules.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
 
2004. Auto Temperature Control issue (hot one side) fixed at dealer. Plastic thermostat housing! left me stranded. Duncan Ford in Blacksburg VA has been excellent. At 90k miles now. Still strong. VERY comfortable seats. Not the fastest but quick enough. Beautiful car.
 
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2004. Auto Temperature Control issue (hot one side) fixed at dealer. Plastic thermostat housing! left me stranded. Duncan Ford in Blacksburg VA has been excellent. At 90k miles now. Still strong. VERY comfortable seats. Not the fastest but quick enough. Beautiful car.
The "Plastic" housing lasted about 20 years after it was molded. :) The metal ones get pitting etc., so you would not necessarily be better off. The plastic also holds up better in situations where people do not keep up with the coolant swaps.
 
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I am considering buying a silver 04, it has a clean CARFAX but it has 104,000 miles. Is this a good decision? It will be my first t-bird. It will just be a weekend driver. Any input on what to look for will help!
 
I am considering buying a silver 04, it has a clean CARFAX but it has 104,000 miles. Is this a good decision? It will be my first t-bird. It will just be a weekend driver. Any input on what to look for will help!
1- click the word carfax and watch the video.
2- have a qualified mechanic look over the car on a lift.
3. Read posts above.
 
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1- click the word carfax and watch the video.
2- have a qualified mechanic look over the car on a lift.
3. Read posts above.
When I was looking most cars with that kind of mileage, most are going to have front suspension joints that need replacement. This is what a mechanic can easily help you determine. The main reason that these joints go out is the rubber boots crack and deteriorate so the grease that it in there is no longer helping to maintain the joint. My car had low mileage so I have been successful in wrapping my joints with flex tape and zip ties, re-packing them with grease which is the poor mans approach if the joints are all good.
 
If you are only looking at 2004, then the Special Edition Pacific Coast Roadster may catch your eye. If so there are a couple of things to look for. 1. OEM Parade boot. $1 to 2.5K to get one. 2. Decorative door panels. Only on this model. Look for seat belt impact damage. These appear to be non fixable and not available. 3. Upholstery: The center panel of both seats is NOT leather and the material is not available to the best of my efforts. If stiches are pulling and leather cracked it cannot be salvaged. New leather upholstery is $3K because these are not standard colors. You cannot find them. Custom made in Texas and fit locally along with seat rebuild and new seat heater(s).
Good luck. Bob
 
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When I was looking most cars with that kind of mileage, most are going to have front suspension joints that need replacement. This is what a mechanic can easily help you determine. The main reason that these joints go out is the rubber boots crack and deteriorate so the grease that it in there is no longer helping to maintain the joint. My car had low mileage so I have been successful in wrapping my joints with flex tape and zip ties, re-packing them with grease which is the poor mans approach if the joints are all good.
Good advice, and I would also add to check the condition of the COPs. This is the number one issue for these cars. In fact the thread is pinned at the top of the forum. You'll need to remove the plastic plug covers--especially the driver's side. That one can be a little tough--there's one screw back by the brake booster that's hard to take out without a small gear wrench--but well worth the time. I wish I had done it before agreeing to price.

It will be a little work and the current owner might be resistant, but if they're anxious to sell it could help you negotiate a better price for the car. The parts are not that expensive if you use the links provided on this site, but cleaning up and replacing all this can be cumbersome--especially if you're not expecting it. Here's what I found about two months after buying the car:
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The cause of the ignition coil failures are either oil or water leaking down in the ignition coil wells. Oil in the ignition coil wells is caused by a defective valve cover gasket and water in the ignition coil wells is caused by a defective wiper motor bracket seal.

The condensation on the ignition coils that tommy c is showing us is caused by a defective wiper motor bracket seal. If you don't replace the defective wiper motor bracket seal, the new ignition coils will suffer the same fate.

To install a new wiper motor bracket seal:

1. Remove the cowl panel grille

2. Remove the wiper motor bracket seal and discard.

3. Clean the wiper motor bracket sealing area using Bug and Tar Remover, or equivalent.

4. Install a new wiper motor bracket seal (5W4Z-54021A46-A), centering the seal on the hole of the cowl panel grille.

Bracket Seal.jpg

5. Reinstall the cowl panel grille.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
 
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