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Top Issue- 02-05 Ford Thunderbird Ignition Coils COP

Are the Valve Cover Gaskets for the driver side and the passenger side the same gasket?
Thanks
Hi, no they are not the same, but it is obvious which one fits on which side.

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My car started mis firing during a heavy rain. After a lot of labor i replaced the plugs and ignition coils. The car continued to mis fire. It had to be towed in. Garage said three of the eight ignition coils were bad. I had paid $44 for the set...Lesson learned. Car's good now. COPS.
 
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Since your engine started misfiring during a heavy rain and three coils were damaged, it would lead me to believe that either the Ignition Coil Cover/Wiper Motor Bracket Warranty Extension was never performed, or the new wiper motor bracket seal (5W4Z-54021A46-A) was never replaced.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

Wiper Motor Seal.png
 
Thanks to the experts here for monitoring and answering all questions, especially biddle. I have a few comments and tips after installing four coils and 8 plugs in my 2003 yesterday. I think one problem I had has not been discussed on this thread. I also have a question. Some of this is about tools.

The job was easier than some say. Anybody who is familiar with tools and doing easy stuff on cars can do it but having certain tools helps a lot. Yes, a 1/4 drive ratchet with 7mm socket is mandatory and a 7mm combination wrench is good to have. Extensions as shown in the picture below are what I used. The tools at the bottom were for the coils and the ones above were for the plugs. Tbird coil job tools.jpgI used the handled driver but it wasn't necessary. Some bolts needed the ratchet to loosen. A small magnet like on that screwdriver is nice to have. The circled tools are the 7mm sockets I used. The one on the extension is a swivel socket. It occupies LESS SPACE than a universal joint adaptor with socket and is REALLY HANDY for getting to those lower rear cover bolts, and for a couple of the coil bolts. I DID NOT REMOVE OR LOOSEN ANY PARTS TO GET ACCESS TO THE BOLTS ON EITHER SIDE. This is the benefit of using the right tools. I did not need to move a big wiring harness out of the way to get to the lower passenger side bolt. I could work the extension with swivel socket behind it, and unlike a universal joint adaptor and socket which flops around, mine could be pre-set at the proper angle and guided the last inch or two to the bolt. For reinstallation of that one I used a long mechanics flex-shaft magnet. Worked it behind the harness with left hand pulling harness away from the metal with my right, then put the bolt head on the magnet, guided the magnet and bolt to its target. Once in the hole the magnet can be pushed to the side and withdrawn. Then come back with the extension and swivel socket. Easy peasy. Another installation trick could have been magnetizing the extension and socket to hold the bolt. But the bolt can be inserted by hand if one is patient. By the way on my engine the lower driver side bolt is shorter than the others and works fine.

Standard sockets are a little quicker and more stable than the flexible types when no clearance problems. I found using the short and long extensions at different times worked well, and even joined together a couple times. I did not use a deep 7mm socket.
Here is the Tekton SHD08107 swivel socket. Well made and I like how it stays at whatever angle you put it:

Tbird 7mm swivel socket.jpg Some of the folks talked about carrying a spare set of coils in their trunk. Only a couple mentioned having the tools! Important! This little bugger will be included in my trunk tool set, as will dielectric grease. Maybe a spare bolt or two.

I thought a previous mechanic had stripped a cover bolt or it's fitting. A middle one. It turned but didn't come out. I couldn't pull it out with pliers. So I removed all other bolts so the cover could be flexed up at the front using a lever. Fingers might have worked, its plastic. This put upward pressure on the bolt so it came out. Turned out the steel female fitting came out with it! It had come unglued, maybe it stripped while over-tightening. It happened on two other fittings. Here you can see a fitting above the coil, and the cover shows a fitting that came off with the cover and bolt.

Tbird coil job cover bolt insert pulled out.jpg Tbird coil job cover bolt insert.jpg Note the fitting is knurled where it sits in the plastic manifold. These are glued or molded in during manufacture. So I needed to re-glue it. It and the bolt were stuck to the cover, so I put the knurled part in a vice and unscrewed the bolt. Then noticed the fitting has two expansion/ contraction slots.

Tbird coil job expanding cover bolt insert.jpg

Obviously I wanted to make the thing bigger so it was a press fit back into the manifold. So I put in a vice and tapped with chisel and hammer to open the slots wider. Then I glued them in. I used a two-part thread repair product on one, and blue Loctite on the other two. After curing, all bolts took installation torque. Next time I will use epoxy or Crazy Glue. Anyway we'll see what works long term. Moral of story is don't tighten the bolts too much.

I did the driver side because my mechanic's scanner said #5 was misfiring. I had all 8 coils on the shelf since reading this thread a year ago. I replaced all four on that side and when looking at the spark plugs I noticed a gap of .046. I was told gap should be .041. I have heard a big gap is hard on coils and this was 20% too big, So I put new Iridiums in it and decided to replace the other four plugs, thinking if they are worn that could hurt those coils. I don't know. I didn't replace those coils because I am curious how they last, and will keep a set with tools in the trunk for when travelling. The passenger side is a little quicker to do because fewer tool changes due to parts in the way.

BTW in 2021 I had purchased the recommended (here) ENA DG515 DG509. These are about 1/8" longer than the Ford ones that came out. So like the aftermarket ones you all talked about many years ago. Cover seated perfectly. Do the 2003 and later covers offer more clearance than 2002 or are these upgraded covers? I am going to buy another set and it looks like the latest and greatest is now the DG515 G-8 from AD Auto Parts via Amazon. The picture shows a connector the same as Ford. Shorter. Hope they work!

John
 
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2002-2005 Ford Thunderbird and Lincoln LS have a widely known issue with Ignition coils going bad and also fouling out spark plugs causing misfires
. Just by replacing these components, you may be able to bring new life to your engine!

At the time of this post, 59.30 for an entire set of Ignition Coils! Can't beat that! If you have a 2002-2005 Ford Thunderbird I would buy these just to have on hand because of the history of these going bad! Don't forget to order 8 spark plugs too because the coils foul them out!

UPDATE April 2020
Here is the link for the updated part as of 04/2020 that fits better with the valve cover- https://amzn.to/31CezPd previously everyone was ordering parts galaxy which works, but is a tight fit.

There is a post below with installation instructions- https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...hunderbird-ignition-coils-cop.5040/post-35040

Important- You may also have a problem with your cowl seal, wiper seal or valve cover gasket, which is causing the coils to fail! You can read more about that in this post. If you have coils problems after a few days/weeks/months it's likely not the coil, but an additional problem.


What you need to buy
1- Ignition Coils (Amazon Purchase Link)
2- 8 Spark Plugs (Amazon Purchase Link)
3- Dielectric grease (Amazon Purchase Link)
4- Valve Cover Gasket (Amazon Purchase Link) (EBay Purchase Link) (optional but highly recommended while doing the job)
5- If you need the deep & shallow 7mm sockets, here is a pack with both (Amazon Purchase Link) Also, this 1/4" swivel socket will help you get to the one hard to reach. Note: 1/4" drive makes the job easier!
6- This type 7mm wrench will make the job easier



View attachment 10794

View attachment 673
There are several other issues that cause the coils to short out. One is the poor seal on the drivers side of the wind shield. Water seeps under the seal on top of the aluminun wind shield motor and on to the valve cover. The neck on the valve cover is held in place with a rubber seal. Oil also seeps out around the filler neck over a period of time. The long narrow plastic covers over the coils also flex from heat and the oil seeps in. If you clean the surfaces along the top and both ends of the cover with a cleaner that leaves no residue. Alcohol will work. Then apply a thin beed along the top edge and the front and back edges of the covers this will prevent the oil and water from seeping in. The covers have no gaskets they relay on several layers of thin plastic to keep the oil and water out.
Go Figure.
 
After you remove the cowl cover the washer hose can be disconnected at the washer fluid hose connector.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue
Cowl Cover.jpg
Washer Hose.jpg
 
#1 was dry. #2 was damp. #3 was wet. #4 was dry and didn't look bad. It doesn't seem to be oil but has a smell I can't place. If it is antifreeze, it doesn't smell like any I've smelled before.

IMG_20240327_164404.jpg
 
I found a 7mm combination wrench at Home Depot for less than $6, but some of the lower screws were still difficult to reach. The driver's side front lower is almost entirely blocked by the tranny dipstick tube. I tried every combination of socket, universal, flexible shaft, etc. and eventually got it out. I just found this on Amazon- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BTTCW3Q?tag=thunderbirdforum-20
1712170349114.png
 
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I'm considering buying a t'bird 02 thru 05 not sure on what year but this problem I have been reading about coil packs going bad because of oil or water leaks is concerning, how often do they need to be replaced? If from an oil leak from valve covers and the valve cover gaskets are replaced how long before they leak and short out again? Can this repair be done in my garage?
 
I have been reading about coil packs going bad because of oil or water leaks is concerning,
Why would this be concerning? All cars, especially 20+ year old ones, with a valve cover can have a valve cover gasket leak that fouls out spark plugs, COPS etc. The problem is simple: when people replace the spark plugs and COPS on any car that has a valve cover and a leaking gasket, the problem reoccurs. What is bizarre, for some reason over the years, people with Thunderbird have decided to blame the car. LOL

Start reading on Post #1 if you want to learn about this topic- https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...-05-ford-thunderbird-ignition-coils-cop.5040/
 
Bought ena coils and ngk plugs based on the link. Was not throwing any codes but the car seemed to be sluggish. Tough getting bottom 7mm bolts near firewall on both sides. What a difference! I guess after 20 years the plugs and coils were tired. Acceleration will snap your head back now. Thanks for all the info!
 
I just bought my 2002 bird this fall my mechanic said the one on the second bank went bad because of a small oil leak in the valve cover gasket. so I had him replace plugs and both gaskets.He said that will take care of it.

This is true. Our 02 with 34K miles started sputtering. Didn't look for a code, just took it to an old friend who's a Ford man. They found a leak in the gasket which was causing the problem in cylinder 5. He replaced the gasket, the coil and plug. It was thundering once again. I'll get some time in the new year and go ahead with the other bank. This time gasket, coil packs, and spark plugs all the way around.
 
A quick tip for those changing coil packs. If this was mentioned in this thread, please excuse the redundancy,

A very handy tool to have is a 1/4 inch drive, 7mm swivel socket. With the swivel and socket combined it is shorter and handier than using a regular socket and a swivel. With a six inch extension it really helps get the bolts out at the firewall end. The socket shown here has a joint that is tight enough so it will stay at the angle you set. That helps the socket find the bolt head. For example on the passenger side using the extension, you push it past a wiring harness, put the socket near the bolt, and by hand tilt it so it lines up with the bolt. Then push it on. If the socket is loose so gravity makes it flop down, it is a little harder to line up.

The brand I bought online is Tekton.Tbird 7mm swivel socket.jpg
 
Two questions on bad coils. 1) Is there a car code reader that can determine which cylinder is misfiring? My 20-year old code reader has been lost so I need a replacement. Hoping for a reasonable priced upgrade since the lost reader could not do this. (2) Despite being stored under cover and very lightly used since the last COP replacement about 5 years ago, the misfire condition has returned. I assume that it is the COPs again. Is there a good solution other than selling the car?

Best, Ken
 
Is there a good solution other than selling the car?

Best, Ken
Yes, start reading on post #1 if you really want to solve this issue. You could be treating the symptom and not the problem!

Click code reader or OBDII Reader for that.

 
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