AC problems

[steveb919]

I read with interest the other post on AC problems, but mine is a little differant. I can be driving along and the AC goes to hot air. After I have shut off the car for a few minutes it works just like advertised. This has only happened three times in the last year. Any ideas?

Moderator Note: 2020- This thread for detailed A/C troubleshooting- https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...ne-side-2002-2003-2004-2005-thunderbird.9446/

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[George]

Steve, Not sure what you read but here's some info on one that sounds similar:
My 2005 Tbird has problems. When using the heat & air only hot air comes out. Whether using a/c or heat...only hot air. Temp adj. has no effect on temp of air coming out.
Here’s his resolution:
I took my car to the local Ford dealer for diagnosis. As they explained to me it seems the problem lies in the Heater control valve, aka the Dual coolant control valve. This valve is located attached to the radiator shroud and has three hoses running out of it, two of them are the heater core hoses. They wanted $150 for the part and another $325 to install it (4 hrs. labor). Well, I've ordered the part from Direct Ford Parts for $102.61 total cost incl. shipping and I will be installing it myself within the next week or so. Depends on when I can get a day off. I'll let you all know how it went, how long it took...I'm thinking I can do it within a couple hours, and if it resolved the problem. I'm glad I purchased via Ebay a CD with the complete Thunderbird Service Manual a couple weeks ago. Comes in very handy.
Update:
Well, I replaced the coolant control valve Saturday without any problems at all....except for a broken radiator hose clamp. The dealer quoted it as a 4 hour job, which I finished in approx. 3 hrs. And that was taking my time, along with a side trip to Autozone for coolant. Total cost for parts and coolant...$115.00. 3 hrs. of my free labor. I would rate the difficulty level on a scale of 1-10 as a 4. If you can use a wrench and remove hose clamps, you're ready.

BTW:The coolant control valve has two electronic actuators that divert the coolant in the appropriate manner. When they malfunction you will get only HOT air blowing from your vents regardless of which temp you set, whether A/C is on, or where you direct the air to come from.

 

[George]

********************************************************
Another owner, A Do It Yourselfer:
This is the procedure and info for repairing a heat-a/c problem on your Bird.
The symptoms were : Only hot air coming from any vents regardless of heat or a/c setting.
The diagnosis is : Defective Dual Coolant Flow Valve
The part number is : YG378 --Order through : directfordparts.com List Price : $155.54 Their price : $91.61 w/shipping & handling $102.56

The Procedure :
1. You will need to get the vehicle up on ramps in order to drain the coolant.
2. You will need to remove the plastic shielding under the vehicle using a 5.5 mm socket.
3. You will find a coolant draincock on the bottom passenger side of the radiator. Take an adjustable wrench or pliers along to loosen the draincock. Make sure you have a good sized drain pan to catch the coolant in as it will deflect off a few item on the way into the pan.
4. Remove the engine air cleaner outlet tube. I found it easier to remove the total air box system. Using an 11mm socket for the nut on the far left side of the air system. You will need to loosen the screw bracket for the air tube attached at the throttle body. Remove the top of the air cleaner box and then pull the clean air system out.
5. Release the clamp and disconnect the upper radiator hose.
6. Release the hose clamp and disconnect the hose that runs from the control valve to the upper radiator hose, where it attachs to the upper radiator hose. It is easier to remove this hose from the control valve after you remove it from the vehicle, then attach to the new control valve. You can then rotate the upper radiator hose backwards out of your way.
7. Release the LH heater hose clamp and disconnect the hose. Make sure you move the drip pan under this location to catch coolant running out from the hose.
8. Release the RH heater hose clamp and disconnect the hose. Position bothe heater core hoses backwards to prevent further leaking of coolant and to get them out of your way.
9. Remove the dual coolant control valve bolt with an 8 mm socket. It will be easier if you have a very long extension.
10. Remove the dual coolant control valve.
11. Remove the electrical connector, pushing the red clip upwards then using a screw driver to remove from the control valve.
12. To install reverse the removal procedure.
13. Fill the engine cooling system.

 

[Ajluther]

@ George

Thank you for this information it was really helpful. I ordered the part and installed it exactly as you said. I am still having the same problem. All heat no matter what the setting. Did I do something wrong? I am pretty good with cars, do I need to reset something to get it working?

 

[George]

I cannot help. As you can see, I only passed on another owners info and what worked for him, trying to help.

Double check the search function, above, to see if there are other posts related to this subject. Such as, search for "hot air and vents" and you'll find 3-4 threads

 

[George]

Lets get you some more data I found from others:

Hot / Cold in vents?
One owner says: Hi Guys, just a follow up on the AC issue. I clamped off the heater hose and guess what, one side of my vents blew cold air. It appears the dealers assessment that I needed a new AC pump was incorrect.
Next step, find out where I can get a Water Control Valve and either find a reasonably priced mechanic or get out the directions found in this forum and try to do it myself.
Another said: Try the self-check feature on the A/C. I am GUESSING the same test works on 03-05's.---To test the A/C on your car do this to the A/C panel:
When the car running and the A/C off:
Press the OFF and DEFROST buttons simultaneously, then release and press the AUTO button within two seconds.
Let the test run...it will last about 30-45 seconds.
If any numbers are displayed, write them down.
Press any button to exit the test. WAIT one minute before doing anything else, including turning off the car...DO NOT, do anything for at least a minute.
Let us know what you find out.

July 2011- For my AC, I needed a dual coolant control valve. You can buy one at the dealership and replace it yourself or have some independent shop do it. Current retail price for the part is about $165.

That's about all I can find for you, keep us informed

 

[George]

Here’s a guy with an ‘04 that replaced the heater control valve with one made by Murray (part number 74010). He said; “This part failed almost immediately. I took it apart and found that one of the solenoid springs was weak.
Meanwhile, back at the ranch, I ordered a Ford replacement part (YG-378 2R8Z-18495-AA) which I replaced today. This part worked like a champ and the air is very cold.The Murray part is manufactured in China; this could be part of the problem.
The Ford part is manufactured in France and is marked Bosch as was the original part.”

Hope some of this info helps someone 😕 - Just trying to help 😛

 

[Captjim737]

Testing my 2004 Climate Control

Performing the
auto test got me these codes 27 98, 27 98, and 12 65.
Any information on what these signify?

 

[P.kick]

2002 AC problems

Hello - I am also having AC problems with my 2002 Tbird - I can adjust heat to 90 and it will blow hot air or adjust to 65 to get cool air but nothing in between works. Car is currently at the Ford dealer and they are "troubleshooting" this and act like they have never seen the problem before. If I run the AC self test, how can I get the diagnosis from the codes? Does someone on this forum have this information. Thanks

 

[mnc7174]

There are problems with the temp sensors in the heater box that can also cause heater concerns like going back and forth temperatures.

 

[chestnut101]

i have this sam problem, had ford replace it and now have the same problem again after a few weeks

 

[old guy]

Testing my 2004 Climate Control

Performing the
auto test got me these codes 27 98, 27 98, and 12 65.
Any information on what these signify?

Code 27 98 is "Driver Coolant Control Valve short to ground.
Code 12 65 is a "Cold air bypass door actuator circuit failure."
Check 10A fuse under the hood

 

[chestnut101]

i'm trying to find the self test. and see what comes up

 

[Third Guy]

Has anyone replaced the "cold air door actuator"? Can it be done without taking out the dash?

 

[chestnut101]

which fuse underhood?

 

[Bronwyn35]

Check for a malfunctioning dual hot water valve. The ac and heat are connected to this valve. If the valve is bad, the ac will run cold for about 15 minutes and then blow out heat. Next time you start the car, the same problem occurs. Tell your dealer about this. Most of them don't realize the systems are conneted.

 

[Captjim737]

I am installing the second CCV valve in two years. When hot air blows out the dash vents its time to get another CCV.

 

[Johnvins]

Recently I checked all the recommended solutions because I had the same problem. I took it to my Ford dealer, they checked everything and found it to be the a/c condenser, not the valve nor vent door control. I'm getting super cold air now for a $310 bill...well worth it to me, plus a 20 point checkup, topped fluids and a free wash and chamois dry!

 

[Mike Raines]

Lets get you some more data I found from others:

Hot / Cold in vents?
One owner says: Hi Guys, just a follow up on the AC issue. I clamped off the heater hose and guess what, one side of my vents blew cold air. It appears the dealers assessment that I needed a new AC pump was incorrect.
Next step, find out where I can get a Water Control Valve and either find a reasonably priced mechanic or get out the directions found in this forum and try to do it myself.
Another said: Try the self-check feature on the A/C. I am GUESSING the same test works on 03-05's.---To test the A/C on your car do this to the A/C panel:
When the car running and the A/C off:
Press the OFF and DEFROST buttons simultaneously, then release and press the AUTO button within two seconds.
Let the test run...it will last about 30-45 seconds.
If any numbers are displayed, write them down.
Press any button to exit the test. WAIT one minute before doing anything else, including turning off the car...DO NOT, do anything for at least a minute.
Let us know what you find out.

July 2011- For my AC, I needed a dual coolant control valve. You can buy one at the dealership and replace it yourself or have some independent shop do it. Current retail price for the part is about $165.

That's about all I can find for you, keep us informed

I am getting Code 16 & 76, I have no heat?

 

[Captjim737]

I am getting Code 16 & 76, I have no heat?

Code 12 65.

Watch out folks. Not all 2004 Tbirds have a Cold Air Bypass Actuator. On the Auto test function 12 65 will show even when none is installed! That is just a rabbit chase. I disassembled the drivers side unnecessarily. Since I did, I cleaned the temp sensor on the steering wheel dash trim. Also cleaned the temp sensor on left heat housing.

I did those just because I had the dash trims and Instrument cluster out of the way.

Turns out the CCV valve was the culprit again.
Second one in a year!

Capt JIM