2003 No Heat with new Valve?

[SeanPwnery]

I'll start with what I've already replaced :

• Thermostat housing (twice)
• Tube Assembly (part the Thermostat housing fits over that 45's down the valley)
• Upper and Lower hoses
• Water pump
• Radiator
• Dual zone heater vale
• valley coolant line to throttle body
• A/C compressor (three times! Rebuilt failed in 6 months, New failed in 30 days, rebuilt 3rd attempt appears to be working)
• A/C drier (3 times also)
• air temp sensor (the one in the ducting on the driver's side footwell)

Now, I have zero heater. The air conditioner has two settings "Max" or "None" (because I press the A/C button to turn the compressor off manually). Not really sure where to start poking around now... seems like the darndest thing. Is it possible my new heater valve came with faulty solenoids?

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[biddle]

Cars of this age often have clogged heater cores, most people reverse flush them first and if that doesn't work replace them-

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[Pepere47]

I'll start with what I've already replaced :

• Thermostat housing (twice)
• Tube Assembly (part the Thermostat housing fits over that 45's down the valley)
• Upper and Lower hoses
• Water pump
• Radiator
• Dual zone heater vale
• valley coolant line to throttle body
• A/C compressor (three times! Rebuilt failed in 6 months, New failed in 30 days, rebuilt 3rd attempt appears to be working)
• A/C drier (3 times also)
• air temp sensor (the one in the ducting on the driver's side footwell)

Now, I have zero heater. The air conditioner has two settings "Max" or "None" (because I press the A/C button to turn the compressor off manually). Not really sure where to start poking around now... seems like the darndest thing. Is it possible my new heater valve came with faulty solenoids?

Check the heater door.

 

[Bobwheeler]

I'll start with what I've already replaced :

• Thermostat housing (twice)
• Tube Assembly (part the Thermostat housing fits over that 45's down the valley)
• Upper and Lower hoses
• Water pump
• Radiator
• Dual zone heater vale
• valley coolant line to throttle body
• A/C compressor (three times! Rebuilt failed in 6 months, New failed in 30 days, rebuilt 3rd attempt appears to be working)
• A/C drier (3 times also)
• air temp sensor (the one in the ducting on the driver's side footwell)

Now, I have zero heater. The air conditioner has two settings "Max" or "None" (because I press the A/C button to turn the compressor off manually). Not really sure where to start poking around now... seems like the darndest thing. Is it possible my new heater valve came with faulty solenoids?

I have to assume you have plugged in an OBDll. Make sure it is good enough to read "b" or body faults. If so, no help? Filled and vented per the owner's manual? Very important. All wire connections clean and tight? With the OBDll plugged in what is the coolant temp? Is it in the band? Good luck.

 

[74 Harley]

Yes it's possible to have bad solonoid, even on new parts.
However I would start with the basics. If you don't have a code reader capable of reading body faults,or if you don't have any try this.
Start car and let it warm up about 5-7 minutes. Start touching the heater hoses. They should be warm. Now follow the heat. Is it warm after the valve? If not are you getting power to the solonoids? If you are check inside and make sure the blend doors are working.

 

[Mrdan]

I'll start with what I've already replaced :

• Thermostat housing (twice)
• Tube Assembly (part the Thermostat housing fits over that 45's down the valley)
• Upper and Lower hoses
• Water pump
• Radiator
• Dual zone heater vale
• valley coolant line to throttle body
• A/C compressor (three times! Rebuilt failed in 6 months, New failed in 30 days, rebuilt 3rd attempt appears to be working)
• A/C drier (3 times also)
• air temp sensor (the one in the ducting on the driver's side footwell)

Now, I have zero heater. The air conditioner has two settings "Max" or "None" (because I press the A/C button to turn the compressor off manually). Not really sure where to start poking around now... seems like the darndest thing. Is it possible my new heater valve came with faulty solenoids?Have you checked the blend doors to make sure they open properly ?

 

[Mrdan]

Have you checked the blend doors to make sure they open properly

 

[SeanPwnery]

I'll look into the scanner and backpressuring the core. The blending door - that's of interest to me, especially since my A/C is "All or Off" too. If this is on the passenger side near the glove box or kick plate, this is of particular interest to me. Several weeks ago before my coolant leak gremlins made their ugly appearance, I occasionally heard this sound which I can only describe as "An acorn hitting the roof" but down low by the footwell over there. I almost wonder if the blend door was smacking itself in a death throw to let me know she was about to shed her mortal coil?

After dealing with 8 months of 100 degrees plus outside, today was 49 and windy ... with no heater ?, but also no coolant leaks so far.

 

[Mrdan]

I'll look into the scanner and backpressuring the core. The blending door - that's of interest to me, especially since my A/C is "All or Off" too. If this is on the passenger side near the glove box or kick plate, this is of particular interest to me. Several weeks ago before my coolant leak gremlins made their ugly appearance, I occasionally heard this sound which I can only describe as "An acorn hitting the roof" but down low by the footwell over there. I almost wonder if the blend door was smacking itself in a death throw to let me know she was about to shed her mortal coil?

After dealing with 8 months of 100 degrees plus outside, today was 49 and windy ... with no heater ?, but also no coolant leaks so far.

Well a clicking or ratcheting noise sounds like a blend door issue I wish I had a repair manual in front of me to see a/c and heater control

 

[doug7740]

To replace the cold air bypass door actuator;

• Remove the left floor duct
• Disconnect the cold air bypass door actuator connector
• Remove the 3 screws that hold the cold air bypass door actuator
• Remove the cold air bypass door actuator

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[Mrdan]

Well I would pull the panel down to get to the actuator and remove it so you can open and close the blend door manually and hopefully the door isn’t broken, but if you can move it to get heat then the actuator may be bad or the heater control head