2003 No Heat with new Valve?

SeanPwnery

SeanPwnery

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Joined
Oct 23, 2018
Thunderbird Year
2003
I'll start with what I've already replaced :

Now, I have zero heater. The air conditioner has two settings "Max" or "None" (because I press the A/C button to turn the compressor off manually). Not really sure where to start poking around now... seems like the darndest thing. Is it possible my new heater valve came with faulty solenoids?
 

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SeanPwnery said:
I'll start with what I've already replaced :

Now, I have zero heater. The air conditioner has two settings "Max" or "None" (because I press the A/C button to turn the compressor off manually). Not really sure where to start poking around now... seems like the darndest thing. Is it possible my new heater valve came with faulty solenoids?
Click to expand...
Check the heater door.
 
SeanPwnery said:
I'll start with what I've already replaced :

Now, I have zero heater. The air conditioner has two settings "Max" or "None" (because I press the A/C button to turn the compressor off manually). Not really sure where to start poking around now... seems like the darndest thing. Is it possible my new heater valve came with faulty solenoids?
Click to expand...
I have to assume you have plugged in an OBDll. Make sure it is good enough to read "b" or body faults. If so, no help? Filled and vented per the owner's manual? Very important. All wire connections clean and tight? With the OBDll plugged in what is the coolant temp? Is it in the band? Good luck.
 
Yes it's possible to have bad solonoid, even on new parts.
However I would start with the basics. If you don't have a code reader capable of reading body faults,or if you don't have any try this.
Start car and let it warm up about 5-7 minutes. Start touching the heater hoses. They should be warm. Now follow the heat. Is it warm after the valve? If not are you getting power to the solonoids? If you are check inside and make sure the blend doors are working.
 
SeanPwnery said:
I'll start with what I've already replaced :

Now, I have zero heater. The air conditioner has two settings "Max" or "None" (because I press the A/C button to turn the compressor off manually). Not really sure where to start poking around now... seems like the darndest thing. Is it possible my new heater valve came with faulty solenoids?Have you checked the blend doors to make sure they open properly ?
Click to expand...
 
Have you checked the blend doors to make sure they open properly
 
I'll look into the scanner and backpressuring the core. The blending door - that's of interest to me, especially since my A/C is "All or Off" too. If this is on the passenger side near the glove box or kick plate, this is of particular interest to me. Several weeks ago before my coolant leak gremlins made their ugly appearance, I occasionally heard this sound which I can only describe as "An acorn hitting the roof" but down low by the footwell over there. I almost wonder if the blend door was smacking itself in a death throw to let me know she was about to shed her mortal coil?

After dealing with 8 months of 100 degrees plus outside, today was 49 and windy ... with no heater 🥶, but also no coolant leaks so far.
 
SeanPwnery said:
I'll look into the scanner and backpressuring the core. The blending door - that's of interest to me, especially since my A/C is "All or Off" too. If this is on the passenger side near the glove box or kick plate, this is of particular interest to me. Several weeks ago before my coolant leak gremlins made their ugly appearance, I occasionally heard this sound which I can only describe as "An acorn hitting the roof" but down low by the footwell over there. I almost wonder if the blend door was smacking itself in a death throw to let me know she was about to shed her mortal coil?

After dealing with 8 months of 100 degrees plus outside, today was 49 and windy ... with no heater 🥶, but also no coolant leaks so far.
Click to expand...
Well a clicking or ratcheting noise sounds like a blend door issue I wish I had a repair manual in front of me to see a/c and heater control
 
To replace the cold air bypass door actuator;
  • Remove the left floor duct
  • Disconnect the cold air bypass door actuator connector
  • Remove the 3 screws that hold the cold air bypass door actuator
  • Remove the cold air bypass door actuator
doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

Cold Air Bypass.jpg

C295.jpg
 
Well I would pull the panel down to get to the actuator and remove it so you can open and close the blend door manually and hopefully the door isn’t broken, but if you can move it to get heat then the actuator may be bad or the heater control head
 
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