2002 Thunderbird Hydraulic Cooling Fan Conversion

[medurham]

the controller is in the ecm on 2002 did they replace the ecm ?

Im new, quoted the wrong part, it was the actuator on the fan?

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[simple]

actuator is on the back of the hydro pump it is a solenoid valve . low engine temp =low frequency pluswith to actuator =valve in actuator open bypassing pressure to hydro fan motor. high engine temp =high frequency pluswith to actuator closes bypass . when ac is on and high pressure switch closes = high frequency pluswith to actuator =high fan speed at once .this is ok on the hydro system . not on the ele fan system .there will be voltage spike .reason for micro processor in 2003 fan to slow start fan when ac is on .2003 fan will slow start on temperature go through duty cycle shut off ,slow start go through duty cycle shut off . as long as ac high pressure has pressure switch closed fan will run on high when inside car is cool enough to drop high pressure below pressure limit fan will shut off if engine temp is in range . all that being said .how many high mileage 2003 thunderbirds or lincoln ls 2003 have fan problems that would be the big answer.

 

[medurham]

the controller is in the ecm on 2002 did they replace the ecm ?

No, the flex a lite 183 comes with its own controller. It’s adjustable during initial setup. The system is complete and self contained so does not rely on the ecm command signal. It has its own temp sensor and power wire with fuse block.

 

[parabolico]

The PCM tells the hydraulic fan solenoid next to the hydraulic pump on the passenger side of the engine.

can the new 2013 electric fan be connected to those wires for control?

 

[highwayghost]

can the new 2013 electric fan be connected to those wires for control?

It's very unlikely that circuit has the power needed to run an electric fan directly. Although it could be used to trip a relay from a stronger power source, preferably a dedicated source. Fans typically draw 15 or more Amps depending on the size. Starting of the fan often requires more. I would recommend the variable speed or slow start types.

 

[parabolico]

It's very unlikely that circuit has the power needed to run an electric fan directly. Although it could be used to trip a relay from a stronger power source, preferably a dedicated source. Fans typically draw 15 or more Amps depending on the size. Starting of the fan often requires more. I would recommend the variable speed or slow start types.

I bought a 2003 thunderbird fan, it has two control wires I was planning to connect to actuator wires, I wonder if I can dissasemble fan to get to the red and black wires that must be internally connected to some kind of internal relay. I do have the black and red wires connected to ground and power from fuse box 8 gauge wires. im waiting on 2002 wiring diagram to compare.

 

[highwayghost]

Sounds like you are on the right track. Many things built today were never intended to be taken apart. Proceed with caution, Good Luck, Let us know the results.

 

[parabolico]

It's very unlikely that circuit has the power needed to run an electric fan directly. Although it could be used to trip a relay from a stronger power source, preferably a dedicated source. Fans typically draw 15 or more Amps depending on the size. Starting of the fan often requires more. I would recommend the variable speed or slow start types.

so by looking at this schematic, assuming the circuit is similar to a 2002 thunderbird, in theory the PCM sends a pulse to complete a ground to activate relay inside fan, making fan work or we can put a thermostat or a temp probe to 18BN wire or brown wire from the new fan it would be NCA BLK yellow on 2003 wiring diagram posted earlier. I will try this tomorrow.

 

[highwayghost]

so by looking at this schematic, assuming the circuit is similar to a 2002 thunderbird, in theory the PCM sends a pulse to complete a ground to activate relay inside fan, making fan work or we can put a thermostat or a temp probe to 18BN wire or brown wire from the new fan it would be NCA BLK yellow on 2003 wiring diagram posted earlier. I will try this tomorrow.

You might want to also check the PCM output voltage to be certain they are similar between the '02 and '03. Computer outputs that do signaling can have often lower voltage. 5 VDC typically. And also that it is switching on and off properly, and not opposite of your needs. .Only use a computer safe voltage tester if probing wires. A service manual may give the proper output volts and timing for the circuit.

 

[parabolico]

You might want to also check the PCM output voltage to be certain they are similar between the '02 and '03. Computer outputs that do signaling can have often lower voltage. 5 VDC typically. And also that it is switching on and off properly, and not opposite of your needs. .Only use a computer safe voltage tester if probing wires. A service manual may give the proper output volts and timing for the circuit.

I connected brown wire to NCA3 that is your pulse (ground) and green and yellow to NCA4 that is your plus 12vdc from the actuator. with new fan that has a microprocessor, as long as I had the NCA4 connected to green and yellow from actuator wiring, I got 12vdc, the fan kicked on. The voltage will not show up in NCA4 until you reach temperature. the other two ties NCA2 is ground and NCA1 positive 60amps . I don't think you need any relays so far is just a straight connection to the actuator wires fro control of Cooling fan. will drive it later on .

 

[Matt1701]

Need to remove everything pertaining to the hydraulic cooling fan, pump, reservoir, lines, expansion tank. Install a 100’’ sepentin fan belt, install a flex a lite 3400 cam 15´’ fan and shroud assembly, install a flex a lite fan speed control #31165 , and fine tune adjustments... I check my engine block temperature with OBDII reader, stays 208 degrees with a/c on, a hot day.

How do you route the 100” belt after the hydraulic pump is removed?

 

[parabolico]

you will ride belt on top of tensioner above where the hydraulic pump used to be,

 

[psironave]

you will ride belt on top of tensioner above where the hydraulic pump used to be,

Did you ever fiqure out the wiring on your electric cooling fan upgrade? I'm trying to do the same thing.

 

[parabolico]

it was simple, buy a 2003 ford thunderbird radiator and buy a thermostat kit, but only use the probe for a negative signal, do not use wiring that used to be on solenoids coming out of the fan pump. the radiator has a build in relays inside

 

[RhuntIII]

Found this online-
This is a write up on how to convert your factory hydraulic cooling fan to an electric cooling fan saving you a lot of money. I have done this conversion on 4 Lincoln LS's including 2 of my own. This should be the same process as the 2002 Birds.

I didn’t take step-by-step pictures but here's the info as I remember. You will need to purchase a Flex-a-Lite 183 cooling fan and a 99" or 100" x 13/16" multi rib v-belt. Removing the hydraulic pump is a pain so don’t say you weren’t warned.

**Before you start, UNHOOK THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL**
Fan Removal
1. Remove intake tube and MAF housing
2. Remove radiator shroud/cover
3. Remove upper radiator hose and lower radiator hose (good time to replace thermostat, DCCV, coolant reservoir, etc at this time since you will need to bleed the cooling system after)
4. Unbolt the silver AC canister from the fan shroud and zip tie out of the way
5. Unbolt the aux heater pump from the fan shroud and remove the electrical connector.
6. Unbolt or cut the lines going to the hydraulic unit on the fan. These will be full of fluid so drain them into an oil pan and cut the hoses going to and from the cooling coil leaving an inch or two so you can plug them with a 3/8” bolt.
7. Unbolt and remove the fan shroud. I believe there are 2 bolts towards the top of the shroud and 2 bolts about halfway down, it’s tough to pull the shroud up and out of the engine compartment because the brackets on the bottom are big. Take your time and don’t put a hole in the radiator.

Hydraulic Pump Removal

1. Jack up the passenger side front of the car and support with jack stands.
2. Remove the alternator. 1 wire harness, the battery wire, and 3 bolts. It takes some maneuvering to get it out once it’s loose but it will come out without removing the lower control arm.
3. Remove the hydraulic pump. Remove the electrical connector. I couldn’t remove the smaller steel line on top of the hydraulic unit so I just broke it off. There is a bolt behind this line, it is the worst one to get to. I used a 10mm 3/8" drive socket with a knuckle/swivel and a few extensions or you can use a 10mm wrench from above where the reservoir is. Remove the other 3 bolts and the pump will come out the same way the alternator did.
4. Remove the hydraulic fan pump reservoir by removing the 2 bolts and two hoses.
5. Plug the hoses going to the cooling coil that is located between your radiator coil and the AC coil. There will be no pressure here, it’s just to keep excess fluid from leaking from the cooling coil. I just threaded a 3/8” bolt into the hose ends
6. Reinstall the alternator
7. Install the new shorter belt in the same way as the old belt. The upper idler pulley is smooth and the ribbed side of the belt will ride on the pulley. The shorter belt is a 99” or 100" x 13/16" 6rib v-belt.

The fan I purchased was a Flex-a-Lite 183 for a '03-'08 dodge ram. The brackets can be easily modified to mount the electric fan to the radiator. I still had overheating issues using the temp controller, I never could get it adjusted right so I just wired it to come on when the key is on and removed the temp controller. It works just fine. The fan comes with installation instructions that will tell you how to install and wire it and aluminum mounting brackets that are easy to modify to the shape you need. You will need to make a custom bracket if you want to bolt the ac canister to the new fan shroud. You also need to mount the aux heater pump to the new fan shroud with a screw or bolt.
After you install the fan, put the upper radiator hose back on and follow the fill and bleeding procedure for the coolant system.
The Flex-a-Lite fan is about as loud as the stock hydraulic fan on high. It cools my Ls perfectly, I sat in gridlock for 45 minutes on a 105 degree day and no overheating issues.
I also have not upgraded my alternator because the LS PCM will not allow it to charge properly. I have not noticed any problems with the factory alternator.
As far as wiring, you can attach the power wire of the fan to the large power wire under the fuse box in the engine compartment and attach the ground wire to a reverse polarity relay and use a switched power source to power the relay. I found a switched source under the dash, I believe it’s a green and orange wire under the steering column.
I also installed a toggle switch to turn my fan off manually. I did this for the drag strip, I turn it off as soon as I stage and turn it back on as soon as I hit the return road.

Looks like the radiator cooling portion of the the hydraulic fan system shares the same radiator with the power steering. Are thee two fluids separate in the radiator? I see 4 hoses going into it. Last night beat me up try to get the coolant radiator out! I'm going back for more today.

 

[RhuntIII]

I'm doing a complete change over from the Hydraulic fan to the electric fan set up. However, I'm having trouble removing the radiator from the engine compartment. This Bird has 3 coolers in it. One for the AC, one for what appears to be for the Hydraulic fan, and power steering, and then the Engine coolant radiator. I thought I was going to be able to remove the middle radiator, but it looks like it has to stay because its the power steering cooler as well. The tabs on the water coolant radiator that actually are the mounts of the radiator are hitting all of the other lines, not allowing me to remove the radiator from the compartment. Can someone help?? Is there a video out there addressing this issue? My bird has sat for about 3 months now, and I'm getting worried about her. I need to get this puppy fired back up and into action. I've bought all the parts for the electric conversion, so thank you in that regard.

I know this is a late reply but I deep into this project right now. Radiator goes in and out of the bottom of the car with ease. A lift is highly recommended but having the car 2-3' off the ground might work.

 

[medurham]

I'm looking to get rid of the Hydraulic cooling Fan on my Bird. I'm replacing the Radiator, and would like to also be done with the current fan cooling system. Does anyone have a good suggestion for Electric replacement fan kits for this model of T-Bird? Is there any conversion temp sensor that I need to incorporate as well?

Ed, search this forum. There is a flexfan kit for a Dodge Ram that fits and uses fewer amps to run that has been successfully done. It comes with a sensor you stick in the radiator fins but I believe there are also instructions on how to hook it up with a added controller that connects to the cars controls.

 

[Old Red Bird]

Help, I bought a 2002 T Bird that was converted to an electric fan ( fan is Ford Part ) and it was converted by a shop in florida . The car also has an adjustable thermostat attached to the radiator via a probe in the radiator, but it keeps blowing fuses . Old Red Bird. any suggestions would be appreciated.

I finally had to go to a 60 amp fuse to keep mine from blowing fuses, apparently the electric fan pulls more amps .