2002 Overheating with temp gauge at 9 o’clock

[Transporter]

Strange overheating problem. T-bird drives fine then about 10 minutes after reaching operating Temperature with the temperature gauge at the 9 o’clock position, steam starts coming out from under the hood. The steam leak is near the front engine cowl and radiator. 6 months ago system was completely flushed and coolant replaced at the dealer.

I have no CES, SES, or any other warning lights, nothing. Reservoir is at the proper level.

Thoughts or suggestions.
.

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[TBIRRRD]

Possible cracked thermostat housing (plastic) or related hose. Pray it is not an expensive housing that takes some doing to change.

 

[HKS]

Strange overheating problem. T-bird drives fine then about 10 minutes after reaching operating Temperature with the temperature gauge at the 9 o’clock position, steam starts coming out from under the hood. The steam leak is near the front engine cowl and radiator. 6 months ago system was completely flushed and coolant replaced at the dealer.

I have no CES, SES, or any other warning lights, nothing. Reservoir is at the proper level.

Thoughts or suggestions.
.

Improperly purped at Quick Lane??
Stuck thermostat, filler cap not screwed tight.

Strange overheating problem. T-bird drives fine then about 10 minutes after reaching operating Temperature with the temperature gauge at the 9 o’clock position, steam starts coming out from under the hood. The steam leak is near the front engine cowl and radiator. 6 months ago system was completely flushed and coolant replaced at the dealer.

I have no CES, SES, or any other warning lights, nothing. Reservoir is at the proper level.

Thoughts or suggestions.
.

Cracked thermostat houding?

 

[ELT2001]

Strange overheating problem. T-bird drives fine then about 10 minutes after reaching operating Temperature with the temperature gauge at the 9 o’clock position, steam starts coming out from under the hood. The steam leak is near the front engine cowl and radiator. 6 months ago system was completely flushed and coolant replaced at the dealer.

I have no CES, SES, or any other warning lights, nothing. Reservoir is at the proper level.

Thoughts or suggestions.
.

You need to pressure test the cooling system and that should reveal exactly where the issue is. I have a 2004 that just a few weeks ago sprung a leak, the thermostat housing developed a crack right in front, pinpointed by pressure testing. It is a relative big deal because you probably need to also replace the coolant pipe that connects the back of the thermostat housing to the top of the engine (also a plastic piece). The intake manifold has to be loosened to remove two of the screws for the coolant pipe. It's not a job for the inexperienced.
Good Luck!

 

[Transporter]

Improperly purped at Quick Lane??
Stuck thermostat, filler cap not screwed tight.

Cracked thermostat houding?

Was served at the Ford Dealer so it was properly purged, been driving it for 6 months since then so fairly sure that isn't it. Filler cap is properly installed.

So that leaves cracked thermostat housing on your list. Thanks.

 

[Transporter]

Update:

Just noticed that I can't get any heat from any of the heating settings, do this help pin it down?

Best way to pressure test at home, I do have a large tank air compressor if that is any help.

Is there a way to force the fan to come on on a 2002 to check for that?

Any help before I take her to the dealer I'll try. Visual inspection of the parts (except to thermostat) that folks said crack or good bad seem to look good. Lastly, is it wise for me to start it up, let it warm up, then look for where the steam comes from first?
.

 

[HKS]

Update:

Just noticed that I can't get any heat from any of the heating settings, do this help pin it down?

Best way to pressure test at home, I do have a large tank air compressor if that is any help.

Is there a way to force the fan to come on on a 2002 to check for that?

Any help before I take her to the dealer I'll try. Visual inspection of the parts (except to thermostat) that folks said crack or good bad seem to look good. Lastly, is it wise for me to start it up, let it warm up, then look for where the steam comes from first?
.

Air in heater core. Get air out by running heater full blast and open heater drain hose near Degas bottle close to left side firewall.

 

[Transporter]

Found it Update:

No wonder it wasn't visible! It is that darn plastic piece that goes to the top of the engine. There is about a 3/8 sliver slit directly on the built up flat plastic area below the part number. Is it possible to JB Weld this or use any other sealer or epoxy that would hold up under the heat and 16PSI? Or just have it replaced?

 

[SeanPwnery]

Reading about this .... I'm starting to wonder if switching over to Evans Coolant will stop the plastics from coming apart from pressure, being a non-water-based alternative ... albeit a painfully expensive one.

 

[BluByeU]

Found it Update:

No wonder it wasn't visible! It is that darn plastic piece that goes to the top of the engine. There is about a 3/8 sliver slit directly on the built up flat plastic area below the part number. Is it possible to JB Weld this or use any other sealer or epoxy that would hold up under the heat and 16PSI? Or just have it replaced?

I suppose a JB Weld would work but would you really want to trust it? I think you would always be wondering when the over heat problem would return again due to the weaken spot that was JB Weld closed.
I'd spring for a new part & be done with it.

 

[Elsie]

I've got a 2003 and having same problems. 2002 has hydraulic fans while 03 and later have electric fans.

I replaced thermostat housing and upper and lower radiator hoses, still I was going through 16 oz of coolant every week. Never could find leak. Finally put "stop leak" in system against my better judgement then car started to overheat and fans ran constantly. Flushed system thinking "stop leak" clogged up something it wasn't suppose to clog, now the effing car is leaking like a sieve from top of motor. Most likely the part you described that goes into engine. I really haven't took off enough stuff to find exact leak, I can just see the steam coming from that area. That was 3 months ago, sick of working on it, maybe someday I'll get back in mood to work on it. Oh and after I flushed engine - heater stop putting out hot air too.

Transporter - Keep us informed about the progress you are making, maybe I can apply it to my vehicle.

 

[Gus Gutz]

My 02 had steam coming out of the reservoir a few months ago. I have an 02 with the hydrolic fan. I broke down on the freeway miles from home so I had the car towed to the nearest Ford dealer. They diagnosed the problem as the fluid control switch. The PCM was telling the fan to speed up but the fluid control switch was not powering up the fan. Once that was replaced I was good to go. Or should I say, I was not overheating. but, I no longer have heat from the vents in the car. I am not using any coolant and the reservoir is full.

So I think I am going back to the dealer to see if they can figure out what is going on.

 

[HKS]

My 02 had steam coming out of the reservoir a few months ago. I have an 02 with the hydrolic fan. I broke down on the freeway miles from home so I had the car towed to the nearest Ford dealer. They diagnosed the problem as the fluid control switch. The PCM was telling the fan to speed up but the fluid control switch was not powering up the fan. Once that was replaced I was good to go. Or should I say, I was not overheating. but, I no longer have heat from the vents in the car. I am not using any coolant and the reservoir is full.

So I think I am going back to the dealer to see if they can figure out what is going on.

Dealer did not bleed the heater core by opening the heater bleed hose located near the Degas botle/filler cap.

 

[HKS]

Dealer did not bleed the heater core by opening the heater bleed hose located near the Degas botle/filler cap.

 

[Gus Gutz]

Dealer did not bleed the heater core by opening the heater bleed hose located near the Degas botle/filler cap.

That's a good question. I do not know and now have a reason to go back. Is that something that is easy to do?

 

[Gus Gutz]

Dealer did not bleed the heater core by opening the heater bleed hose located near the Degas botle/filler cap.

thanks HKS. I found this in my manual.

 

[Gus Gutz]

ok I burped the system this morning. Probably have to do it again once it cools down. I have some heat but it is still not blowing hot. It is warm but not hot. I dumped a third of a gallon into it. At least it is driveable. These 55 degree mornings are killer this time of the year

 

[Gus Gutz]

Nothing worked. The heater is still blowing cold. I have how coolant coming out the bleeder, the degas bottle full of hot coolant. Took the car to the dealer to find out what is wrong.

 

[edward301]

Ok, all of this got me concerned that maybe my 02 T Bird may have issues. It has most likely been 15 years since
I even tried my heater, so Sunday I drove my T Bird to my ranch to see if my heater even worked, since it was
a 40 degree day. Well heater worked great, good hot air out of both sets of vents. When I got home, I set AC down
to 65 degrees to see if heater valves would close, and yes air slowly returned to cold air out of both sets of vents.
So for now I am still good to go.

 

[edward301]

I sometimes wonder if it is better to leave things alone, the oil in my T Bird has not been changed since
2012, but if you check it, the oil is clear and golden, and smells like oil. Only have about 2 or 3k miles
on this oil. Since car is parked in climate controlled garage, that most likely adds years to the need to
change the oil. The antifreeze is also original, but when you check it, it is still green, and smells like
antifreeze.