Thanks for responding Frank, I am in Oregon, so I will do some research locally. Took it out yesterday. ..FUN. We are having unseasonably warm weather this week, 82 today...yay. However, this will be a " summer only" car here in Oregon 😉
So, a stupid question, I'm sure, but, when you started having radiator issues, etc..what starts to happen? Will I know when something is going out, without driving and causing more serious problems?
I'm not sure how many coils have been replaced, but again, what are the signs? I understand most people have replaced them all at some point. At what mileage did u start to see most of your problems? Thanks Again!
Hi, I'm of the opinion that the only stupid questions are those not asked.
The temp gauge on the bird, once warmed up, sits level pointing to the left. It reacts quickly to loss of fluid (my problem) rising quickly if you are not at speed and outside air temp is high. Once it gets close to the red zone the computer notifies you with a sound similar to the seat belt not fastened sound. After that it takes the engine into an emergency status by limiting your power and speed. By now you best be at the side of the road. You will have to be asleep at the wheel to cause serious damage. That was the worst case that happened to me. I pulled off the busy road, engine off, opened the hood, found the
radiator hose off its connection point. Got a couple wash/wax towels out of the trunk and carefully removed the cooling system expansion/reservoir cap. There was very little fluid remaining.
Nothing to do then except call for tools, 50/50
radiator coolant, some different type of
radiator clamps and an
OBD code reader/eraser. The
OBD code must be erased once the failure is repaired or the computer will not release the "emergency mode" it had put the engine in when it lost its coolant. When my wife arrived with my truck and the items I reattached the rad hose with 2 stout clamps and tightened them down. Filled both fill points, the cooling system reservoir/expansion tank cap and the cap residing on the
thermostat housing with 50/50 rad coolant (front center of engine under the flat
engine cover. It took over 2 gallons in a 3 gallon system. I suspect the system has a valve that is electrically closed by the computer when the temp rises to a specified temp thus giving the driver a short safety period to get the engine shut down. I will research it and let you know.
Once that was completed, I hooked up the
code reader, called it up and erased it. I wasn't too far from home but decided to complete the "heater bleeding procedure" that's required after something happens and coolant is lost. I did that, then drove home carefully. Next day I changed the oil and filter (It was almost due anyway and I'm familiar with oil over temp and what it can cause), replaced the clamps with bigger, stronger ones, checked and filled both fluid ports again, bled it again and called it good. I bleed the system regularly due to the issues I have had. I suspect the reason for the bleed procedure is hydraulic lock that can occur in liquid systems under certain conditions.
I have ordered a new hose off of
RockAuto.com and will change it at the next service interval.
Cheers, Frank
