2004 Horn stopped working

[ALANGABE]

I have a 2004 Thunderbird. Yesterday I got in the car and the horn started to blow. I figured I would go to my service station and have them look at it. I drove about 4 miles with the horn sounding all the way and it stopped just before I got to the service station. I think the horns must have burned them self out because they do not work at all now. Has anyone ever experienced this and what would be the first step to get the horn back in operation?

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 

[biddle]

Horn Location-

2005 Horn Location

Can anyone tell me the location of the horn or horns on a 2005 T-bird

forums.fordthunderbirdforum.com

Related thread-

2005 Horn won't stop blowing after wheel tilt

I've always had problems with the battery draining but this is something completely mind blowing. I replaced the battery a month ago and everything was going well. I went out today to start it up and the battery was dead. I charged it for an hour and everything seemed ok. I checked the turn...

forums.fordthunderbirdforum.com

 

[doug7740]

When the horn switch is pressed, a message is sent from the instrument cluster via the network communication link to the FEM. The FEM receives the message and energizes the horn relay by grounding the horn relay coil, allowing the dual note horn to sound.

The horn relay is relay #6 located in the Auxiliary Junction Box under the hood.

Possible causes of the horn always on are:
- auxiliary junction box fuse 4 (15A)
- the (GY/OG) wire at the instrument cluster is shorted to ground
- the (RD/YE) wire at the Auxiliary Junction Box is shorted to power
- the (BN/RD) wire at the FEM is shorted to ground
- shorted clock spring
- horn relay
- horn
- horn switches
- instrument cluster
- defective FEM

Possible causes of the horn not operating are:

- auxiliary junction box fuse 4 (15A)
- the (GY/OG) wire in the instrument cluster is open
- the (RD/BU) wire at the Auxiliary Junction Box is open or shorted to ground
- the (RD/YE) wire at the Auxiliary Junction Box is open or shorted to ground
- the (RD/YE) wire at the horn is open or shorted to ground
- the (BK) wire at the horn open
- the (BK/GN) at the clock spring is open
- the (BN/RD) wire in the main harness is open
- open clock spring
- horn relay
- horn
- horn switches
- FEM
- instrument cluster

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[ALANGABE]

OK that is great information, but where do I start.

 

[doug7740]

If the horns were damage because they continued to sound, the horns are not the problem, but the result of the actual problem. Unless you have a scanner with bi-directional control, it would be like working in the dark. You can test the system using pin point tests and a wiring diagram, but that would be time consuming. If you would like to diagnose the problem that way, I can post the pin point tests and the wiring diagram.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[BluByeU]

Find it difficult to think that the car would all of a sudden develop shorted wires.
Why not start with the simple stuff & exchange the horn relay which is easily accessed in the auxillary junction box under the hood. Just a thought.