I've been chasing a parasitic power drain of about .33 amp for a couple of weeks (
part time). So I have now systematically removed ALL fuses except for fuses 23,24,27,32 (SSP fuses) and 25 (P-JB) fuse in the rpdb. Removing any of these make the draw increase (under 1a) and when replaced it goes back to .33 in less than a minute.
Diagnosed with
OBD (Forscan) and got the following codes:
1. P1000 =
PCM (even after driving it around for an hour)
OBD systems readiness test not complete. Possible Powertrain Control Module failure. (covered by fuse 18 in the fpdb - pulled, no impact to amp draw.
2. B1830 = GEM (Lock switch unlock switch circuit) - door unlock disarm switch circuit failure 419-01a pinpoint test b shows the issue - the switch is dead, the anti-theft won't disarm with driver side key unlock. Unfortunately this
part seems almost impossible to get, so I'll probably have to remove the panel and disconnect it to see any impact. covered by fuse 2.30 (passenger compartment) - pulled, no impact to amp draw.
3. B1242 = EATC (Air flow recirc door driver circuit failure) - seems to work when I test it manually with
continuous DTC - switch works, servo % changes, etc. but the inside temperature on continuous DTC shows 20 degrees higher than the outside even with the top down. So it looks like a bad temperature sensor. Can't find a fuse to cover the EATC but
DATC covered by 2.30, 2.29 no impact to amp draw when pulled
4. Happenstance - I found the side mirror adjustment switch doesn't work for either side, have to replace. covered by fuse 2.34, no impact to amp draw
I'm almost resigned to getting a replacement REM, but it would be nice if there was a way to diagnose the amp draw with no fuses except rpdb 23,24,25,27 and 32. It's a pretty spendy what-if though.
Any other suggestions when a normal parasitic draw fuse test fails to show anything?