Starting 1963 sitting for years

Just be weary with those OG brakes… I had the lynch pin in the brake pedal loose the E clip and pop out and if anything goes you loose all brakes… I had down down shift to 2nd to 1st and then neutral then slam it in park.. I upgraded to disc brakes.. you can reuse the rear line with an adapter and everything is bolt on!
 

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Gotcha! Before I worry about that I’m looking for some help with the dang bolt holding on my last wheel cylinder!! One is off and the Little bugger is behind the control arm and backing plate I can’t get a wrench at it! So is it BFH time or do I need to loosen the bolts holding the backing plate? Ugh!!
 
You probably need to dig around and find an offset head wrench...
 
Hello
Well the weather got a lot better here except for the possible foot of snow we are supposed to get tomorrow! All the cylinders have been swapped out and the brakes disassembled, cleaned, adjusted, and put back together. Blew out all the lines with compressed air & I changed the brake lines as well to the cylinders. Thank you Harley for the advice on the wrench and the brake part swap outs! I was able to get the bolt off and get that front brake done.

Now I am looking to bleed the Master and I have a question on whether I bleed it with the brass fitting on that the lines go to, or take that off when I bench bleed it? From there I am hoping to bleed the brakes all out and get back to starting it and working on the timing.

When I do this for the first time I will be running fuel from the new tank! Would you put anything in the fuel for a first time? Just wondering?

I cant thank this forum enough for all the help!
Mike
 
Leave the brass fitting in. I would probably juice the fuel with a little Seafoam, it would not harm anything. Congratulations on getting this far. Can't wait to hear about your first drive around the block!
 
Thanks a lot! Bleeding it with the brass fitting on did the trick. Brake fluid flowed to all four wheels and they are bled. Much appreciated as the air was definitely sitting in the master.

I’ve seen some new coils around while looking for other parts. Are there any to recommend or to avoid when using points? Not sure my really old one is all that great.

And yes to filling the group in on the first drive around the block!!
 
Harley I need your help too lol!!! I’m trying to replace the front to rear brake line and it’s a nightmare trying to figure out how to get it down behind the hood and shock tower… any advice?!
 
@MorrisonAF , those suck. You might try putting it up on jack stands and going up from the bottom. It's been over 30 years since I did that. I really remember it was a pain. Not sure how I did it.
 
Hope you got it fixed! From the sounds of it that doesn’t sound fun AT all!! 😒
 
The wild part to me is they pretend the lines but I have no clue without gutting the car on how to get it in… gonna have to make me own most likely… I’m heading back to California on Tuesday though so it may have to wait.. is been icy here and I’m a baby since I’ve been in California 🤣🤣🤦‍♂️
 
Thanks for the advice Harley! So after all that brake business we got her running and idling off and into reverse for a few feet. Hooray for the tranny!! My plan was to drive it outside and give it a spray down since it was kinda nice here yesterday. :) However, seems that the brakes have a vacuum leak that I need to investigate? When the brake pedal is depressed the RPMs go down. They worked but not great hence the four feet of movement. Now I guess its time to look at the booster and the hoses and the check valve. Upon review of the system I found this (attached picture) wrapped in electrical tape attached to a hose leading to the fitting on the pass side that goes to the vacuum hose to the booster.
Not sure what it is for (check valve) ?? When I blow into it it seems to work??

Whats the best way to go about testing the system to find the culprit?
 
Plug the vacuum line off at the manifold and see if the car runs better. If you have one of those handheld vacuum pumps with a gauge connect it to the booster and see how much vacuum you can pull.
Or if it leaks down fast. If the check valve has been removed try putting it back in.
 
Change in profile picture! Thank you to all of you who helped me get this Bird out of a smelly dark garage and into my clean and much sunnier place.
I will send the pics soon of the maiden voyage as the brakes were still a little wonky from the old place to the new one. But she seems to run pretty good and likes the sunlight.
Now I need to figure out how to get the temp and fuel guages to work? And get that darn Ford ignition tumbler back in place. Not looking forward to the wiring adventure LOL.
 
Me and Harley have your back dude!! I’m extremely proud of you for having the intelligence and prowess to of gotten it back up and running!! Just know if you ever need help we’re here!
 
As far as the brakes go, make sure you have them adjusted properly. I prefer to jack up each wheel and tighten them up until you get just a little drag. That seems to be a good initial setting. Then back up a few times and hit the brakes a little firmly. This makes the self adjusters work.
Nice to hear that you got it home!
 
Temp sensor I believe is a 1 wire on the intake manifold and the sending unit is in the tank… it’s either the gauge itself the wiring which is just a single pair or the connection is all nasty.
 
MorrisonAF said:
Temp sensor I believe is a 1 wire on the intake manifold and the sending unit is in the tank… it’s either the gauge itself the wiring which is just a single pair or the connection is all nasty.
Click to expand...
Yep. I replaced the temp sensor and the sending unit with the new tank. The temp sensor runs under the bunch of wires along the manifold and you’re right it is kind of a nasty grouping. There may be a wire that’s exposed, cut, etc. under that group of wires? Is there a connection behind the fuel gauge/temperature gauge that may have come loose or needs to be cleaned? I was also thinking it might be a problem with one of the fuses as I haven’t dug into the fuse box yet. 🤔
 
More of testing continuity pull the wire off at the sensor and test resistance to see if it it’s cut. The sending unit runs on resistance so power should be going through it and depending on the float level it raises the resistance and voltage is inversely proportionate so increase in resistance is a decrease in voltage out the other side. I would also try to see if you can get a resistance reading I haven’t done my sending unit personally but I’m sure Harley can impart some wisdom on us!!
 
Gotcha. So test the sending unit in the trunk. And probably test the temp sensor at the manifold. I do know that the connector on the unit running back to the front is not great!
 
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