Starting 1963 sitting for years

mikeoster2112

mikeoster2112

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Aug 12, 2023
Thunderbird Year
1963
1962 Just got permission from my neighbor to tinker with this. Hasnt been statred in almost 25 years. Looking to figure out the first steps to see if can run?
 

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I'm sure there will be a thousand different ideas. I would drain the oil, change the oil filter. Check all other fluid levels. Buya qt. of Marvel Mystery Oil at a local auto parts store. Remove all sparkplugs put a generous amount of MMO in each sparkpug hole. Hook a gas can w/hose to fuel pump. Let it sit overnight. Using a breaker bar and I beleive a 7/8 or 15/16 socket turn the engine over at least 1 full rev. Have a can of starting fluid clse by. You will need new oil 10-30 or 10-40 Check brake operation. After it is running exhaust will burn blue until MMO is all burnt up.
 
mikeoster2112 said:
1962 Just got permission from my neighbor to tinker with this. Hasnt been statred in almost 25 years. Looking to figure out the first steps to see if can run?
Click to expand...
Change oil and filter, drain gas by removing sending unit in the trunk and syphon, add fresh gas. Replace fuel filter and clean canister. Change antifreeze. (20.5 qts. use green)
Change spark plugs, add Mystery Motor Oil down spark plug hole let sit over night, check all belts.use a good battery. Just a few for starters.
I wouldn’t move it if it does start until brakes are gone over.
 
Why not make it easier. If you want to start the car, disconnect the fuel line going back to the tank. Hook up a boat tank or a long hose and drop it in a 2 gallon can.
Replace the points and condenser.
Get a really small plastic funnel and put it over the fuel vent on the front of the carburetor. Fill the carburetor.
Change the oil and filter.
Now you are ready to start it. Once you get it running for about 20 minutes you'll get to see how things are going to be.
Make sure the coolant is topped off!
 
Don't be surprised if it doesn't start, or starts and run roughs or the carb starts flooding.
Chances are the needles, seats and passages are gummed up - but - you might get lucky...

Otherwise the above advice is good, you will ABSOLUELY want to service the brakes, completely.
DOT 3 is hygroscopic and when I got my 63 Corvette off the sellers lift after 5 years of non-use the
brake fluid was like mushroom soup.
 
sre said:
I'm sure there will be a thousand different ideas. I would drain the oil, change the oil filter. Check all other fluid levels. Buya qt. of Marvel Mystery Oil at a local auto parts store. Remove all sparkplugs put a generous amount of MMO in each sparkpug hole. Hook a gas can w/hose to fuel pump. Let it sit overnight. Using a breaker bar and I beleive a 7/8 or 15/16 socket turn the engine over at least 1 full rev. Have a can of starting fluid clse by. You will need new oil 10-30 or 10-40 Check brake operation. After it is running exhaust will burn blue until MMO is all burnt up.
Click to expand...
Oil is not compressible like the fuel air mixture. Too much oil will cause a hydraulic lock, and may damage the engine. Add the oil sparingly like 5-10 ml (1 -2 teaspoons). Other than that warning the advice here is sound. I've done this several times successfully. I would ABOLUTELY turn the engine over by hand with the breaker bar, 2 full revolutrions, to make sure you have actualted all the valves and none are stuck. Next I would turn it over with the starter until a few seconds after the oil pressure light goes out or the gauge shows >40 psi. You don't want a dry engine running at cold idle speed. I actually have a tool that I made that fits into my drill, I take out the distributor and drive the oil pump with the drill to build oil pressure and get everything lubricated, then put the distributor back in and try to start it, but if you've not had experience R&R a distributor you might want to skip that. It's easy to put hte distributor gear in 1 tooth off.
And once it's been running about 10 minutes shut it off and smell the oil to make sure the fuel pump isn't leaking gas into the crankcase.

Once you know it will run plan on rebuilding the carb because it will need it.

Then the brakes

then the tires
 
Thank you to everyone who has sent the help to my post. Pulled the plugs and got the engine turned over by hand with a breaker bar, 2 full revolutions.
it moved without any trouble. Next step is a battery, check fluids, and to try to see if it turns over. Currently all 4 tires are flat and its sitting in the garage in a way that makes an oil change pretty difficult but not impossible until I can move it away from the wall about 3-4 feet. Im not sure the key will turn the engine as when I am in the front seat the whole ignition lock cylinder comes out?? So that may be another problem to tackle as far as the ignition. Not my strong point so any help with that is appreciated. Still do some tests on the starter and the relay.

I will set up an alternative gas source to the carb or fuel pump, once the plugs are back in and the battery is installed. Once this is done maybe it will want to turnover for
a short stint based on the proper oil pressure being achieved.

​

 
You can jump the solonoid under the hood to turn it over. If you hotwire it you can also start it that way.
 
Just remember you need to pull the shifter up and forward to even get the car to kick over!! It’s got a safety interlock and a relay on the firewall if it isn’t working lol good luck!!
 
From StickyWhislte76:
Change oil and filter, Replace fuel filter and clean canister. Change antifreeze. (20.5 qts. use green)
Change spark plugs, add Mystery Motor Oil down spark plug hole let sit over night, check all belts.use a good battery. Just a few for starters.
I wouldn’t move it if it does start until brakes are gone over.

All done except the brakes.

Well, it has been awhile since I was able to get back on here to update and move on with this project. After 25 years or so the engine starts and runs for as long as I feed it gas through the carb. All of the advice on here worked out great and now I am looking to keep it running long enough to check the fluid levels while warm. My plan is to hook up an alternative fuel source to the new fuel pump and see if I can get a steady amount of fuel to the carb? Transmission fluid level says low currently when its cold so I want to see if I need to add any mainly because when I finally found some non flat used tires it wont move when in neutral? Maybe someone can help me answer that?
 
No, it will not move when I try to push it by myself. But that maybe a lack of strength and help. But you bring up a good point. I was thinking the tranny fluid was low and thats why it wont move but... time to look at the brakes earlier than I planned to,
 
Make sure the parking brake is off. These are quite heavy cars and don't really push well when working solo.
 
Thanks for the replies 74Harley and the help with the next steps. As my post before tried to state, My focus is getting the car to roll to get it out of the neighbors garage.
Today i was able to get the back, drivers side drum off with zero trouble and eveything looks quite good inside. I did this because I was under the assumption that the parking brake cable was back there and then I could adjust it with the adjuster to help release it. The parking brake release does not seem to react when I pull on it. So i am guessing that because the drum came off so easy, that is not the wheel that is sticking.
I am assuming the next step is to do the same thing all the way around? Which if you look at my profile picture that wont be easy.

Couple of things:
The actual hub does not turn currently since I took off the drum.
There is zero brake fluid in the master cylinder (never has been any since I got it) no sure if thats the issue.

So the first question is, is it fluid? old parts that need replacing? or locating the wheel that is causing the lock up.

Thanks to all who will help me get this into a better place to work on. My garage!! LOL
 
Brake fluid is not the issue. A raised rear wheel will not turn unless it is in neutral. You may want to consider the cheap shop dollies at harbor freight. You need to jack up a wheel and lower into one of these. If you get 4 of them 2 guys can push the car across the garage sideways. If you live in a high humidity area even one of the front brakes could be stuck. Brake lining can swell and rust to the drum. I had to cut the drum off my '62 when I got it home. It was the left front that froze up on mine. Don't forget the parking brake cables can also be frozen up internally. I wish you best of luck. Myself I would probably attach a heavy chain or strap and try to pull it a little bit, it may break loose a stuck wheel if it's not too bad.
 
Thank you 74Harley! looks as though thats all it took to get it to move a little. So I am onto the next dilemma. Seems that the
throttle arm is too long for the set up as when I push on the accelerator the rod comes out?? I have attached some pictures of the current set up in hopes that I can get some direction on the set up of the system. Just starting to tinker with that and then check the status of the carb, for an eventual rebuild. All the advice on this site so far has been great! The car starts with no problem and idles as long as I feed it gas (waiting on a part to connect the fuel pump to the carb)

Hope these pics work to see what was inherited:
IMG_4052.jpgIMG_4052.jpgIMG_4053.jpgIMG_4051.jpg.
 
I swapped out the tank, cleaned out the fuel lines, moved the car around to get better access to it with a little tug from my Chevy. Rebuilt the carb after a succesful cleaning. New gapped .035 plugs and wires. When the old carb was on and the fuel pump wasnt hooked up, it would start with gas down its throat. It would fire up and run as long a I fed it gas. This was after I got it to TDC and made sure the points were clean and gapped and I ID #1 on the cap. And put the wires in sequence.

Now the question for the group:
Now with all the changes above it just wont turn over? The carb probably needs major adjustments, but I feel like its a timing thing and it is close to firing. Spark to the coil seems strong, points have a spark, its getting spark to the wires, but not as strong.

Anyway any help would be appreciated! The poor thing needs a wash!:)
 
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Won't turn over, or won't start? It should be timed at 6 degrees before top center.
Make sure all of your vacuum lines are connected or plugged. Are you getting fuel through the carb? Did you try priming it with fuel? Battery fully charged?
Good luck, don't give up now!
 
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