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Starting 1963 sitting for years

  • Thread starter Thread starter mikeoster2112
  • Start date Start date
Once again thank you to all of you for all your help. In the next week or so I am hoping to send some pics of the maiden voyage. With work and stuff going on I finally got a chance to work on the car!! Made some progress though in the last few days that will hopefully yield a longer drive than around the block!! ???
 
Awesome new dude, I’m almost done with my 280zx too!!
 

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Sweet I always liked those growing up! Cool body and pretty peppy if I remember correctly
Congratulation's!!??

Anyone ever buy any interior parts from car parts.com namely the dash pads they carry? I’ve been looking at the salvage yards around me with zero luck. I thought I may have to get something like that down the road if I can’t find anything else.
 
Wow!! That front drum was a bit too much!! But it came off just in time for my new hoses to appear and the cylinders too.
Compressed air is going through all the lines shortly but I have a question … any thoughts on running denatured alcohol through them first then air? Once that is done I can bleed them out and it should be buttoned up.
I had many of the same problems on my "63 and ended up just buying a master kit gor the lines and replaced them all along with the wheel cylinders and was having problems with the master cylinder and booster . So I broke down and converted the front end to disc brakes and replaced the booster and master cylinder with a smaller booster and dual master (bought as a unit) and replaced them installed a proportioning valve and adjusted it. So now i have a completely new braking system except for the drums on the rear and she stops pretty good to be so heavy. I think it was worth the money and time/labor ((I provided the labor) Since most of the kits to convert to front discs say that you have to convert to 15" rims. I did a lot of research and found some 14" rims that look like the original Ford wheels but provided me with enough offset and rear clearance to stay with 14" tires and be able to use the original T-Bird hubcaps. That was what I really wanted the narrow white wall tires and original hubcaps. Anyway that's my 2 cents worth and 74 Harley is really has his act together with all of his advice. He knows his stuff
 
All the cars I have restored I always put denatured alcohol thru the lines.I also replace the brake fluid with DOT 5 silocone brake fluid. i have a few cars left that I put the DOT 5 in 30 years ago. never had any problem
 
If you pull the sensor wire off the fuel tank and ground it the gauge should read full.
Thanks Harley! Since the last time I posted this seems to be now working after detecting some wiring concerns and getting the dash in order. I have done a few more things to the car. Mostly working on the interior to rid it of the smells, & the body to get it ready for painting. And multiple trips to the DMV for the title. My apologies for not keeping the group updated on the progress. Once again this site has been amazing to get this project where it is. BIG THANKS!

On to the latest...
One thing that is baffling me is the instrument lights. All of the lights work except the four lights around the fuel/temp gauge?
I have replaced the fuse per the manual, replaced the headlight switch, all the bulbs are new, and the sockets of each light in question light my probe
but when the bulbs are inserted I get nothing. I have cleaned the contacts on the sides of the sockets and the inside of the sockets. Turned the switch to get full brightness at the clock and speedometer. I was thinking it may be the harness to the new switch? Maybe the connection to that wire that runs to these 4 lights is
bad?
 
Your instrument cluster may not be grounding very well. Check into that first, since you have power to the bulbs.
Nice to hear that you are still making progress!
 
Your instrument cluster may not be grounding very well. Check into that first, since you have power to the bulbs.
Agree, if you have power to the little button in the center of the socket and a good bulb, then you are missing a ground.
 
Ahh. Where is the ground wire or where is the ground on these? I know the sockets are grounded on the side of the housing. Maybe these are the issue?
I have other sockets in my spare parts drawer I could use to see if this is the issue if that is the ground you both are talking about?
 
Quick idea, add a ground wire from your instrument cluster to an interior ground point and see what changes.
 
Agree, if you have power to the little button in the center of the socket and a good bulb, then you are missing a ground.
You guys are the best!!! So I attached a ground wire to the housing and then to the frame and like magic all the lights are up and running! Perfect solution!!
 
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