2005 T'Bird AC Only Blows Heat

If your A/C blows cool or cold on one side, and heat on the other, I would suggest that it is the valve underneath that is at fault
My 02 started doing that and I took it in to a Ford Dealer for repair
They first diagnosed it as the unit in the dash, at a hefty price
Then when that didn't fix it, they said it was another component, another hefty price
After they installed that piece, and that didn't fix it, the only piece left was the valve, which I had said was the problem all along
After they replaced the valve, everything worked great again, and still is, and quite cheap also
And they wound up leaving all the other components in as they said they couldn't be returned, as they had been installed
So check carefully, and if you decide on a dealership, make sure you talk to the service manager, and let him know that you are only going to pay for the part and that part's labour, that will fix the problem
Good luck
AC only blows heat. Dash unit diagnosed as defective motherboard and must be replaced. Suggestions??
 
He said, "The coolant control valve is located on the passenger side of the radiator shroud. You will find three hoses connected to it, two of those hoses running to the heater core, the other routes to the upper radiator hose. This coolant control valve has two electronic actuators that divert the coolant in the appropriate manner. When they malfunction you will get only HOT air blowing from your vents regardless of which temp you set, whether A/C is on, or where you direct the air to come from. The part can be ordered from Direct Ford Parts for $102." -
Installed it himself. Not sure if this is your problem, sounds like it. But, always refer to thensearch function.....There's a wealth of info there for you.


My 2002 had the valve on the drivers side of the radiator. Installed from above, (no need for a hoist ) in 10 minutes. Problem described above fixed.
 
He said, "The coolant control valve is located on the passenger side of the radiator shroud. You will find three hoses connected to it, two of those hoses running to the heater core, the other routes to the upper radiator hose. This coolant control valve has two electronic actuators that divert the coolant in the appropriate manner. When they malfunction you will get only HOT air blowing from your vents regardless of which temp you set, whether A/C is on, or where you direct the air to come from. The part can be ordered from Direct Ford Parts for $102." -
Installed it himself. Not sure if this is your problem, sounds like it. But, always refer to thensearch function.....There's a wealth of info there for you.


My 2002 had the valve on the drivers side of the radiator. Installed from above, (no need for a hoist ) in 10 minutes. Problem described above fixed.


----------------
I just today at 31,500 miles on my 2005 Inca Gold TB have this same exact need to Remove and replace this Coolant control valve aka CCV.
Where do I Order one from ? Needing link to Direct Ford Parts and about how much time to complete the remove and replacement. ?
Thank you in advance.
Ken
 
I thought I could see daylight with the problems with the T-Bird and it behaved beautifully for several months. Now the DATC has gone wacko.
Its in the 40s in Florida this morning and with the system in AUTO and set at anything below 80* it blows ice cold A/C....if I jack the temp up to 80* or better the heat does come on. Doesn't matter if the system is in dual or single mode, auto or manual, or with the A/C light on or off.

On a hot day last week (80*+) and the A/C set on AUTO and 74*; the system blew so cold we had to turn it off. Seems that only extremes of temperatures are working...

The DATC self-check doesn't throw any codes nor does the OBDC-II output. I'm charging the battery now with the post disconnected and hope that when I reconnect the fully charged battery maybe things will clear up doubtful.

From what I'm reading, it may be the DATC cockpit panel or the "blend door". The "blend door" is apparently a major repair requiring basically ripping the dash out from what I've read...

If anybody has experienced this and fixed it I'd sure be interested to hear about it...
 
I cannot hello you with your current issue but how do you get the DATC to she the codes? My problem was the dual coolant control valve went bad and I had no heat. I hear the door in the dash move all the time as soon as I start the car and the idle drops
 
I thought I could see daylight with the problems with the T-Bird and it behaved beautifully for several months. Now the DATC has gone wacko.
Its in the 40s in Florida this morning and with the system in AUTO and set at anything below 80* it blows ice cold A/C....if I jack the temp up to 80* or better the heat does come on. Doesn't matter if the system is in dual or single mode, auto or manual, or with the A/C light on or off.

On a hot day last week (80*+) and the A/C set on AUTO and 74*; the system blew so cold we had to turn it off. Seems that only extremes of temperatures are working...

The DATC self-check doesn't throw any codes nor does the OBDC-II output. I'm charging the battery now with the post disconnected and hope that when I reconnect the fully charged battery maybe things will clear up doubtful.

From what I'm reading, it may be the DATC cockpit panel or the "blend door". The "blend door" is apparently a major repair requiring basically ripping the dash out from what I've read...

If anybody has experienced this and fixed it I'd sure be interested to hear about it...
I had this problem with my F150 , there are 3 in it, 1 over the gas pedal,1 behind the radio, and the last one on the passengers side kick panel on the console, Ford wanted $1000 dollars labor to pull the dash and put in a 35.00 part,. long story short , i removed the kick plate cover and cut the short extension duct out of the way and was able to access the motor, replaced in in less than 45 min and was just the cost of the motor . not sure about the Tbird but I hope i dont have to do that to it
 
I cannot hello you with your current issue but how do you get the DATC to she the codes? My problem was the dual coolant control valve went bad and I had no heat. I hear the door in the dash move all the time as soon as I start the car and the idle drops
Turn the key on and the Climate Control OFF. Hit the OFF and BOTTOM FLOOR VENT button at the same time; then hit the AUTO button and the system should go through self test. You can search youtube for "Ford DATC self test" for more info..

If the test finishes without any 4 digit codes the test passed...
You can search youtube for "Ford DATC self test" for more examples.
 
I don't even know how my original new thread of yesterday on this problem got merged with this one...
The title of this thread doesn't match my issue, my A/C WILL blow cold, too cold, when its set below 80*..
 
I had big time AC problems and replaced blend door and tried many other things but the real problem was that one of the plugs behind the AC control panel had come loose and was intermittent. Take your control unit out and check it and the connections on the rear.
 
I had big time AC problems and replaced blend door and tried many other things but the real problem was that one of the plugs behind the AC control panel had come loose and was intermittent. Take your control unit out and check it and the connections on the rear.
Yeah - that's my next step but it'll have to be after I return home in two weeks....
I've been avoiding that since my aftermarket radio has so many connections to deal with to get to the DATC control panel.
Ugh! Thanks for the tip...
 
He said, "The coolant control valve is located on the passenger side of the radiator shroud. You will find three hoses connected to it, two of those hoses running to the heater core, the other routes to the upper radiator hose. This coolant control valve has two electronic actuators that divert the coolant in the appropriate manner. When they malfunction you will get only HOT air blowing from your vents regardless of which temp you set, whether A/C is on, or where you direct the air to come from. The part can be ordered from Direct Ford Parts for $102." -
Installed it himself. Not sure if this is your problem, sounds like it. But, always refer to thensearch function.....There's a wealth of info there for you.


My 2002 had the valve on the drivers side of the radiator. Installed from above, (no need for a hoist ) in 10 minutes. Problem described above fixed.
I had the same problem. Blowing hot through all vents at any setting. I found a schematic of the fuse box under the hood on passenger side. The #1 fuse had blown and it is the ac clutch, auxiliary coolant pump and CCV. The #1 fuse powers 2 relays, one for the AC Clutch and one for the Aux pump and CCV valve. So if CCV coil is bad it blows the #1 fuse and that kills the AC clutch and Aux cooling pump. Question I had was is it the AC clutch coil, Aux pump coil or CCV coil? So pulled out the relay for Aux pump and CCV valve (#5 on the schematic). Now the AC worked great and that leaves either the Aux pump or CCV valve for blowing the fuse and causing all blowing hot.
My next question is how do determiine if it is CCV or Aux with a bad coil. They both run on the same relay. Is there a way to figue out where wires are that are easily unpluged from either the CCV or Aux or something??
 
I'm having the same issue, 2003 Ford Thunderbird, A/C compressor clutch fuse keeps blowing as soon as you turn on the A/C. When the A/C is turned off or disabled due to the blow fuse, I’m still getting hot air through the vents, even when temp setting is at 60 degrees. Took it to my mechanic today and after he did his diagnostic, service desk lady said the secondary air pump was causing the problem with the blow fuse, I think she is referring to the aux coolant pump. Disabling the pump returned the system to normal and did not blow hot air. He can’t find a replacement part; Ford no longer makes the pump, and he couldn’t find an aftermarket pump available. Not sure if he knows that all 2002-2005 are mechanical the same and he might not find one with a 2003 label, just 2002. He said it shouldn’t cause any issues bypassing the pump, I would rather have the pump operational. I have the part number from the shop manual, 18D473 Auxiliary coolant flow pump. I found 18D473 parts online but with different prefixes and suffixes. Anyone know what the correct part number is and where to find one? Thanks!
 
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