2005 New Master Cylinders & still very little brakes

[stanley (Stan) Cohen]

One mechanic wants to put a brake booster on it an the other mechanic said it does not need a new brake booster. However, both are searching for ideas. Brakes go down as soon as vehicle is cranked up. Any ideas? Blake’s were bled 4-5 times but NO Brakes. Brakes will stop vehicle but Do Not tust them!

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[Merk]

one mechanic wants to put a brake booster on it an the other mechanic said it does not need a new brake booster. However, both are searching for ideas. Brakes go down as soon as vehicle is cranked up. Any ideas !!!!!!!!!! Blake’s were bled 4-5 times but NO Brakes !!}}}}. Brakes will stop vehicle but Do Not tust them !!!!!!!!

Will they pump up when the engine is running and then bleed off

 

[tbird.blue]

One mechanic wants to put a brake booster on it an the other mechanic said it does not need a new brake booster. However, both are searching for ideas. Brakes go down as soon as vehicle is cranked up. Any ideas? Blake’s were bled 4-5 times but NO Brakes. Brakes will stop vehicle but Do Not tust them!

I think that is how the brakes are supposed to work with abs with the engine running. If they hold pressure with engine off and there is no leaking fluid anywhere then I'd say they appear to be normal.

 

[JoseG]

When you say down is it almost all the way to the floor? Assuming there are no leaks or air in the system and the new master cylinder is in good working order could be the ABS ANTILOCK BRAKE PUMP MODULE ASSEMBLY tends to loose pressure internally without leaking fluid to the outside and the brake pedal tends to go down very low.

 

[Jeffb1062]

MY 03 Brake pedal is hard and takes time to stop,my booster is working. i checked it

 

[JoseG]

The easiest way to check or test a vaccum power brake booster is with the car off pump the brake pedal three or for times to release the vacuum, the pedal should feel hard and at the top now without removing your foot from the brake pedal start the car the pedal should go down 1 to 2 inches if it does the power booster is working.

 

[Daily Driver]

If you replaced any brake fluid, it may have been contaminated with moisture from lid of brake fluid being left open, either can or car. Brake fluid is very sensitive to moisture in the air. The only way to remove the moisture is to cook till you see bubbles.
Just a thought, probably not the problem, but possible

 

[WesTxStoner425]

That is the first time I've EVER heard about "cooking" brake fluid, and I'm 66 and used to read all the old car magazines. Is that a real thing? How safe is that versus just buying more? Truly curious.

 

[Brax]

One mechanic wants to put a brake booster on it an the other mechanic said it does not need a new brake booster. However, both are searching for ideas. Brakes go down as soon as vehicle is cranked up. Any ideas? Blake’s were bled 4-5 times but NO Brakes. Brakes will stop vehicle but Do Not tust them!

it most likely is the ABS pump valve assy. Fords have this problem on many vehicles. I have seen this on Fusions, explorers and taurus's what happens is one of the valves get stuck in the abs valve assembly so there is very little brake pedal just like you describe. you can remove the abs assy and disassemble clean and reassemble or best route is a new one. bleed the car and use a ABS sensor controller to acuate the ABS pump when bleeding. Sitting for long periods of time or moisture in the system from very old brake fluid does this to the ABS module in Fords for some reason. One other thing NEVER ever cook brake fluid replace it with new every 5 years.

 

[Daily Driver]

That is the first time I've EVER heard about "cooking" brake fluid, and I'm 66 and used to read all the old car magazines. Is that a real thing? How safe is that versus just buying more? Truly curious.

Yes its a lot easier just to buy new. Plus you must get tempature just to the point of seeing bubbles (air/moisture). If you are retired he gives you something to do.

 

[TopDownMadness]

The soft pedal may still be air bound in ABS assy. Should air be introduced into the lines a "tickler" command will vibrate or rotate the pump removing air. Handheld diag. devices and often high-end readers have a feature to activate the system from issuing a command via ODBII. Gravity bleeds will never correct it. In the days of yore, guys would tear around in gravel or snow and lock the brakes repeatedly. Makes the ABS kick in, activate, and remove the air. Crazy stuff!

 

[TopDownMadness]

That is the first time I've EVER heard about "cooking" brake fluid, and I'm 66 and used to read all the old car magazines. Is that a real thing? How safe is that versus just buying more? Truly curious.

Um, brake fluid can break down from heat conducted into it from the calipers contact thus the DOT ratings basically how hot it can get. DOT-3 will cook in a performance car rated for DOT-4. It will boil and toil. Even the right rating will slowly break down. Track guys change it out every couple years. The primary reason is hydrology or water in the fluid. Condensation contaminates the fluid and trips the recommended five-year interval. Look at the color of that stuff coming out. 10 years max and dump it!

 

[stanley (Stan) Cohen]

Where can I buy a new or rebuilt one from on line
Cannot fine one for a T-Bird . Any info appreciated.

 

[WesTxStoner425]

Um, brake fluid can break down from heat conducted into it from the calipers contact thus the DOT ratings basically how hot it can get. DOT-3 will cook in a performance car rated for DOT-4. It will boil and toil. Even the right rating will slowly break down. Track guys change it out every couple years. The primary reason is hydrology or water in the fluid. Condensation contaminates the fluid and trips the recommended five-year interval. Look at the color of that stuff coming out. 10 years max and dump it!

I knew about overheating brake fluid, this was in reference to cooking brake fluid to remove moisture.

 

[stanley (Stan) Cohen]

When you say down is it almost all the way to the floor? Assuming there are no leaks or air in the system and the new master cylinder is in good working order could be the ABS ANTILOCK BRAKE PUMP MODULE ASSEMBLY tends to loose pressure internally without leaking fluid to the outside and the brake pedal tends to go down very low.

Cannot find a rebuilt one. Nobody refurbished them anymore. Ford does not give me any help.
Did find one company that will repair if I send to them. A few used ones for sale but really do not want a used one. Any suggestions !!!!!

 

[stanley (Stan) Cohen]

Cannot find a rebuilt one. Nobody refurbished them anymore. Ford does not give me any help.
Did find one company that will repair if I send to them. A few used ones for sale but really do not want a used one. Any suggestions !!!!!

Maybe there is air in the brake line wheel. Maybe a kink in the brake line. Who knows !!
Took it to brake specialist who bled them 3 times but did not help. Two new master cylinders but no difference. I just want a 3/4 pedal an I would be happy, not a 1/4 like I got know.

 

[JoseG]

Take a chance on a used unit, when we used to have the repair shop, we had a fleet of Ford E350 Vans and had great success with used ones.

Did you have any repairs done prior to this problem occurring or did it happened all of a sudden?

 

[stanley (Stan) Cohen]

It has really never had a full pedal like it should.
I have only owned it 11/2 years. Seems like last few months it kept getting worse.

Take a chance on a used unit, when we used to have the repair shop, we had a fleet of Ford E350 Vans and had great success with used ones.

I may have it removed an send off an have rebuilt.
Not much on a used ABS part. I will think about it.
Thanks !!!!

Did you have any repairs done prior to this problem occurring or did it happened all of a sudden?

Had new coils & plugs installed.
Brakes were not great when I bought it however, thought it was just something minor. I have drove it 800 miles in 11/2 years.