2002 T Bird fuel pump replacement.

[brock]

Yes Doug- I checked it and it is engaged. (down position)

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[doug7740]

I’m not a big fan of disconnecting the fuel line and turning the key to see if fuel squirts out. The proper way is to connect a fuel pressure gauge at the Schrader valve on the left side fuel rail. Since you already have the fuel filter exposed, has the fuel filter ever been replaced? I wasn’t having any problems when I replaced mine, I was just doing it as preventive maintenance, but I couldn’t blow through the old one.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[biddle]

FYI failed fuel pump is a common problem on these cars!

 

[doug7740]

A failed fuel pump is common, but wouldn't it be better to test it to be sure it's defective before replacing it?

Since Brock does not know where where the fuel pump fuse or the fuse box is, here are their locations along with the fuel delivery system wiring diagram.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[brock]

Thanks for the info, Doug- and you too, Mr Biddle. Ive looked through all receipts from day 1 and it seems the filter is original. Would I be wise to get one and see what happens before going farther as it would have to be changed anyway? Also- Ive checked the fuse and relay in the trunk which are working. Do you know the location of the fusebox in the cabin? I understand Ill be checking number 4 fuse?
Also- is there a place where we can buy these parts that isnt China?

 

[doug7740]

Brock,

If you look at the simple wiring diagram that I had attached you will see that fuse number 4 not only powers the shut-off switch it also powers the control side of the Powertrain Control Module relay and all PCM related components, as well as the fuel pump relay. It wouldn’t hurt to check fuse number 4, but since you said that the fuel pump relay was working, I don't think that fuse number 4 is defective.

The Central Junction Box or the passenger compartment fuse panel, as the owner’s manual calls it, is located under the right-hand side kick panel. You have to remove the panel cover to access the fuses.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[brock]

Thanks again for the info Doug- I guess my next step after replacing filter is to check pressure at fuel rail? Do you know what the pressure is supposed to be?

 

[doug7740]

There is a pressure test point with a Schrader fitting in the fuel rail and the fuel pressure specification is 39 to 65 psi.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[brock]

Hi Doug- I hope all is well- I relaced the fuel filter but still no luck. I guess my next move is to check the fuel pressure at the Shrader valve.
Is this it? With the cap off it looks like a bicycle inner tube valve and its on the drivers side.

 

[doug7740]

Yes, that's fuel pressure at the Shrader valve.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[TBirdSon]

Battling with the passenger side fuel pump (Delphi FG1340) to seal properly on reassembly. Once O ring gasket is exposed to gas, it expands slightly making reinstall impossible. Checked with Delphi and they confirmed the slight expansion and that they do not sell the O ring individually. Any recommendation on where to acquire a replacement gasket/O ring?

​

 

[sophie123]

Thanks to everybody for the helpful information posted here. Here's how this info helped me today.

I bought my car a few months ago. It's in fantastic shape except for one thing: the car stinks of gasoline whenever I accelerate or make sharp turns with a full tank. (This explains why the tank was nearly empty when I test-drove it.) I did some sleuthing that led me to the passenger-side fuel pump. Wet gasoline around the white plastic tank lid confirmed that gasoline sloshes in the tank and leaks around the lid.

Records show that a dealer previously replaced the fuel pump, so I suspected that the mechanic didn't get a tight seal around the lid when it was reinstalled.

I bought a new gasket ring and the recommended cover removal tool from amazon (hint: that tool is absolutely worth the $13 I paid). After I unscrewing the ring, I discovered that the cover gasket was perfect, but the threaded ring was split. I suspect that the previous mechanic cross-threaded it and tightened it until it split around its perimeter. If you don't have a strong light and an inspection mirror, you can't see the split, so I understand that it could be an innocent mistake.

I bought the replacement ring and followed the advice in this forum to remove the fuel lines, replace the gasket (it looked good but I had a new one), and installed the new threaded ring.

REINSTALLING THIS RING IS VERY DIFFICULT. It's insanely likely that it'll get cross-threaded the first 3 dozen times that you try. Here's the technique that finally worked:

1. Prepare yourself with great peace of mind. You will need it.
2. Get the cover plate centered exactly with its lock tabs properly seated.
3. Have my husband* use a broom handle to push down on the white cover plate to hold it in place (his hands are too big to work within the tiny confines of the access hole, so he got the easy job).
4. Note where the start of the threads are on the tank and the ring. Rotate the ring so that the threads are ready to mate.
5. Carefully and repeatedly try threading the ring onto the tank. Beware that it will probably be cross-threaded.

It took probably 30 minutes of trying and retrying before the ring threaded properly. You can tell when this happens by verifying that there is consistent clearance all the way around between the threaded ring and the cover plate. Once I confirmed that the ring was properly threaded, I used the tool to tighten the ring snugly.

The gasoline smell is completely gone. Thanks to all the commenters here who provided helpful tips!

 

[Paul Kethman]

Nicely done!
I had to replace my fuel pump right after I got my tbird last year. As you've found out, tricky but very doable.
Now go out and enjoy the ride with the top down!

 

[edward301]

I have had to replace two passenger fuel pumps, one on my 13k mile T Bird that sat too long, and my high mileage
T Bird with 129k miles where fuel pump was simply worn out. When reinstalling the screw down ring I simply placed
a little grease on the threads which also held the gasket in place. When placing the screw ring on the tank, turn ring
counter clockwise until you feel the threads pass each other, then tighten ring normally, moves easily and you get it
correct the first time.

 

[tim-in-ca]

Having issues where car is turning over but not starting (2002) after replacing the battery. Fuel pump fuse is OK, can't test relay (ordering a new one), fuel cut off button in foot well is depressed, and not getting any errors on scan tool. If there was a fuel pump failure, would I expect to get an error when I use a scan tool on the OBD II port? Right now, I'm only getting emissions data failures (this happens when battery is disconnected and is normal ... car needs to be driven to get new data). I don't think it's a FEM or REM error (FEM was rebuilt a few years ago and I'm not experiencing any of the issues I had when that failed). I can't find any detail on REM failure symptoms, but everything else in the vehicle seems to be OK.

 

[doug7740]

If you think the fuel pump is the cause of your no start condition, there is a pressure test point with a Schrader fitting in the fuel rail. The fuel pressure specification is 39 to 65 psi.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[tim-in-ca]

Having issues where car is turning over but not starting (2002) after replacing the battery. Fuel pump fuse is OK, can't test relay (ordering a new one), fuel cut off button in foot well is depressed, and not getting any errors on scan tool. If there was a fuel pump failure, would I expect to get an error when I use a scan tool on the OBD II port? Right now, I'm only getting emissions data failures (this happens when battery is disconnected and is normal ... car needs to be driven to get new data). I don't think it's a FEM or REM error (FEM was rebuilt a few years ago and I'm not experiencing any of the issues I had when that failed). I can't find any detail on REM failure symptoms, but everything else in the vehicle seems to be OK.

Turned out fuel pump needed replacing. $1700 at dealership, but they got it done in 2 days.

 

[pschultzy]

I replaced my passenger side fuel pump on my 2002, car finally starts up and runs. BUT, when i fill it with gas at the pump, the gas leaks between the ring and the top of the fuel pump. It does not seem to leak when i dive it. I tightened the ring as tight as i could but still leaks only when i fill it at the pump. I planned to check the gasket but now i cannot get the fuel lines to disconnect. I also had Ford try and they cannot disconnect it either. I bought the Delphi FG1340 fuel pump.

Is there a trick that anyone knows that can help me get these disconnected? i'm at the point of trying to figure out how i can cut the fuel line and figure out if there is a way to use a fuel line connector to reconnect, something like this: Amazon.com: Fuel Line Connector for 5/16" OD Nylon Tubing Hose Union Quick Connect, Fit for 8mm OD Nylon Tube/Gas Line Pack of 4 : Automotive

 

[pschultzy]

While the manual says pinch the tabs and pull straight up on the lines, this may or may not work. Even with wire wrapped around the fittings I could not get the fuel pump pipes to extract from the pump housing. Even on the bench,
(after I cut the lines, they were kinked anyway), I pulled with large pliers and they would not come out. I guess they were heated on by age and heat. So I have to buy lines and module to repair. Ben

Ben, can you tell me what lines you bought? and, how did you connect the new lines to the existing lines? Did you have to buy new elbow fittings?