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2002 T Bird fuel pump replacement.

  • Thread starter Thread starter edward301
  • Start date Start date
Thanks Mr Pete. I have replaced both the relay & diode. I’m going to check out the external fuse in the trunk next. I’ll post my findings
 
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Fuse 17 was blown. Car is running, but gas gauge isn’t working
I would try disconnecting/re-connecting the battery and ruling that out.
 
I have a 02 bird that I was going to replace fuel pumps I damaged the fuel line end from the drivers side pump going to engine ford has discontinued the part Iw4z-9327-AA is anybody making these lines or can you find a repair kit I can not find anything on the internet please help thanks for your help in advance
 
Where is it located on the 2002 tbird? The P1237 code mentions it as the possible fault. Is it outside of the tank or is it part of fuel pump assembly inside the tank? Thanks To All.
 
My 2002 TBird wouldn’t start & keep running. It did “clunk” like it was going to fire off but that was it. Didn’t show any error codes. I checked the fuse, diode & relay and all checked good. At 76, I’m too old and dizzy to tear it apart so I had it towed to Raceway Ford, the local dealer.

They diagnosed it as the fuel pump & estimated $1400. It was due to be finished last Friday but they ran into problems with the new factory locking ring not holding the pump assembly in place, and had to order an aftermarket lock ring.

When I asked about replacing both pumps, I was told that there is one dual pump assembly with one pump portion acting as a scavenger pump.

Invoice Information:

LABOR $686.25
YW4Z9H307BB SENDER AND PUMP ASY $585.69
XW4Z9276AA GASKET $13.82
XW4Z9A307BA RING RETAINING $33.84
LO172 LOCK RING $48.86
Sub Total $1368.46
California Sales Tax $59.69
Total $1,428.15
 
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I'm sorry to say but the fuel filter on the Retro is up inside the driver's side front wheel well. Access is only by removing the fender liner which is made even easier by removing the wheel/tire. Once the liner is removed the filter is right there in its own little recess in the fender and easily changed.

You are very correct in the statement a little simple maintenance goes a long long way.
Here is a photo of the fuel filter in the left front wheel well, just in front of the drivers foot well.

Fuel filter.JPG
 
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My 2002 TBird wouldn’t start & keep running. It did “clunk” like it was going to fire off but that was it. Didn’t show any error codes. I checked the fuse, diode & relay and all checked good. At 76, I’m too old and dizzy to tear it apart so I had it towed to Raceway Ford, the local dealer.

They diagnosed it as the fuel pump & estimated $1400. It was due to be finished last Friday but they ran into problems with the new factory locking ring not holding the pump assembly in place, and had to order an aftermarket lock ring.

When I asked about replacing both pumps, I was told that there is one dual pump assembly with one pump portion acting as a scavenger pump.

Invoice Information:

LABOR $686.25
YW4Z9H307BB SENDER AND PUMP ASY $585.69
XW4Z9276AA GASKET $13.82
XW4Z9A307BA RING RETAINING $33.84
LO172 LOCK RING $48.86
Sub Total $1368.46
California Sales Tax $59.69
Total $1,428.15
As far as fuel pumps, the drivers side fuel pump simply returns fuel back over to the passenger side of the fuel tank.
The passenger side fuel pump is what pumps fuel up to the engine.
 
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I am suffering now because the plastic gas tank in my 2003 vacuum sucked it out of shape and the warranty aftermarket company won’t replace anything plastic. The Ford dealership struggled hard to find a used plastic tank, and it came with no fuel pump and sender. Shall I use my old ones? Ford does make replacement fuel pumps and senders, but $1500 or so for these two parts. If these Old ones fail subsequently, the warranty company will replace them and pay for everything, but of course now they won’t, so which way to go?
 
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I would use the old ones if they were good. The pumps can be replaced later, if need be, from inside the car under the convertible top storage area without removing the tank. Give them a test first, to be sure they power up before install in new tank. But if you don't do your own work, you'll need to way the cost effectiveness.
 
Not hard the panel snaps are about 2 inches from the top, and about 2 or 3 inches from the panels near the center panel.

Here are two photos of what the fuel pump access looks like once you get the speaker panels off, and pull the carpet
back.



T Bird fuel pump 2.JPGT Bird fuel pump.JPG
 
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The car turns over fine but just doesnt start but I realize it could be many other things. Ive already removed the inner drivers side fender guard to expose the fuel filter and Im thinking if I disconnect it and turn the key the fuel should squirt out if the fuel pump is good?
Also- I understand number 4 fuse in the cabin (passenger side?) should be checked but I dont know where the fuse box is.
One other thing I did was have my FEM repaired which restored the dash lights which had gone out- Very good and fast job by Module Masters in Idaho ($220.00) FYI
I appreciate any and all help, Doug- THANK YOU in advance!!!!!!!!
 
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Brock,

Before you do any of that, did you try resetting the fuel pump shut-off switch that is located behind the kick panel in the driver's side footwell?

The shut-off switch is designed to stop the electric fuel pump from sending fuel to the engine when the vehicle has a substantial jolt.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

Fuel Pump Shut Off Switch.jpg

Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch.jpg
 
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