2002 Overheating | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
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2002 Overheating

  • Thread starter Thread starter WFW
  • Start date Start date
W
Reaction score
3
Thunderbird Year
2002
I had neglected to check my coolant level for a while and saw that the temperature gauge would go the 3/4 mark and then almost immediately fall back to the 1/2 position. I added fluid about a quart, and carefully bled the system. Today, after about 10 minutes after I started, and the indicator had been normal for about 5 minutes, it went up and the red warning light went on. I pulled to the side of the road but before I could turn the car off the red light goes off and the indicator goes to normal. Five minutes later the same thing happens. I head for home 10 minutes away and indicator stays at normal.
I understand that the 2002 water pump is hydraulic - is mine failing? (70,000 miles on the car). Any point in flushing the pump system? No signs of a leak - the coolant level has stayed constant through this. I may have overfilled the coolant - it’s up to the rib in the overflow tank but I double checked the cap and it seems to be functioning. Are there ways to determine if the pump is working correctly?
 

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I think you have not gotten all the air out of the system. You will need to run engine with the air release valve open until a strong flow of coolant flows out.

Also the water pump is not hydraulic. The cooling fan is and this could be your troubles if you have gotten all the air out.

Another place to check is the degas bottle. They are known to get small cracks in them as they age, 2002 model = 17 yrs. old. As the coolant heats up the cracks open and the bottle leaks. Could be why the coolant was low to begin with.
 
I think you have not gotten all the air out of the system. You will need to run engine with the air release valve open until a strong flow of coolant flows out.

Also the water pump is not hydraulic. The cooling fan is and this could be your troubles if you have gotten all the air out.

Another place to check is the degas bottle. They are known to get small cracks in them as they age, 2002 model = 17 yrs. old. As the coolant heats up the cracks open and the bottle leaks. Could be why the coolant was low to begin with.
I agree. Start with another bleed then the degas bottle would be second on the list. If you need a new bottle, do not get the Dorman brand. They don’t last. Stick with the OEM.
 
I think you have not gotten all the air out of the system. You will need to run engine with the air release valve open until a strong flow of coolant flows out.

Also the water pump is not hydraulic. The cooling fan is and this could be your troubles if you have gotten all the air out.

Another place to check is the degas bottle. They are known to get small cracks in them as they age, 2002 model = 17 yrs. old. As the coolant heats up the cracks open and the bottle leaks. Could be why the coolant was low to begin with.

Thanks for the ideas. When I got the car home, turned the ignition off. I almost immediately turned it on, opened the hood and turned the slotted cap on what I think is the bleed tube. Within a half a turn, coolant came out all around the cap so I tightened it again.
As far as the degas bottle, the fluid level has stayed at a constant level in the bottle, but as you say it doesn’t explain why the fluid was low to begin with.
 
My 2002 TBird exhibits similar symptoms. Took it to Ford and they replaced the fan for ~$1,800.00. It overheated on the way home. They told me the thermostat needed to be replaced. Had that done and it still overheats randomly. I'd hate to think I spent over $2,000.00 when the system just needed bleeding. Where is the bleed valve located?
 
When you open the bleed off valve let it run awhile catching the coolant so as you can put it back into the system. You are looking for a good steady stream, no bursts of air or sputtering. Then you will know all the air has been burped out of the system.
 
I've got an 03, cooling fans on it are electrical while on 02 hydraulic.

This is what my 03 manual has to say about bleeding the system of air. Can't believe it would be any different from 02

  1. Remove the engine fill cap.

  • S3D~us~en~file=A0060236.gif~gen~ref.gif
  1. Open the heater air bleed.

  • S3D~us~en~file=A0004560.gif~gen~ref.gif
  1. Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added.
  1. Install the degas bottle cap.
S3D~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif
CAUTION: Care must be taken to make sure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine coolant.


  1. Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open.
  1. Install the engine fill cap.
    • Install the engine fill cap until contact is made and then tighten an additional 45 degrees (1/8 turn).

  • S3D~us~en~file=A0060236.gif~gen~ref.gif
  1. NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.

    Start the engine and turn the heater to the defrost (90°F) position.
  1. Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant escapes during engine idle.

  • S3D~us~en~file=A0004560.gif~gen~ref.gif
  1. Allow the engine to idle for five minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark.
  1. Reopen the heater air bleed to release any trapped air and close again.

  • S3D~us~en~file=A0004560.gif~gen~ref.gif
  1. Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.
  1. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
  1. Set the heater temperature setting to 24°C (75°F) and allow the vehicle to idle for two minutes.
  1. Shut the engine off and allow to cool.
  1. After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark.
 
Elsie,

Thank you so very much for all this information. My wife has been afraid to go anywhere in my T Bird because of the intermittent overheating. Before I turned 70 (6 years ago) I did all my own car repairs. I'm disappointed Ford couldn't solve the problem and still managed to charge me over $2K to try. We used to call what they do "shot gunning" the problem.

Thanks again for the information,

Pete
 
There are several videos on YouTube on bleeding/burping the system, but they are almost always titled Lincoln LS , not Thunderbird. Same system.

 
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