2002 No power, alternator problem?

[Netconn]

So, Murphy's Law. I just listed my 2002 T-bird for sale. It's been perfect for years... And now there seems to be an alternator problem. I was getting the battery light for a few minutes, every so often when I start the car in the morning, it goes off and all seems fine. Yesterday I start the car, no battery light, it was dark so I had the headlights, radio, heater on. I'm driving down the road and the ABS & traction lights come on, next the radio shuts off, next the heater shuts off, my radar detector says "Low Battery" and it shuts off. Headlights dim and engine not running great, but running. I keep driving to get to my destination as best I can. About 5 minutes into this everything comes back on, headlights bright and the ABS & traction lights are off.. All is well again.. I park the car. I drive the car back home later last night and the same thing happened.

I'm assuming the alternator has failed and is intermittent. But I don't see the battery light come on at all. I also assume the computers shut down everything when the battery voltage drops below a set voltage.

Anyone seen this happen?

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[Bond007]

Have you checked for OBD codes? If you don’t have a scanner, most auto parts stores will check for free and also test your battery and alternator.

 

[Pete Higgins]

I’m not a mechanic, so I don’t actually know what it could be? But I had a similar experience with my 1972 Old’s 98 when reporting for duty in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Driving at night, the headlights dimmed to the point I couldn’t see to drive. I pulled over and waited for daylight. With the lights off the battery would charge (slowly) but the headlights were enough to slowly drain the battery. I replaced the alternator brushes and all was well with the charging system until I sold the car in ~1985.

 

[mdpigroaster]

more than likely just a battery issue. best to go to an auto parts store and let them test it.

 

[biddle]

I updated your title to include your model year.

 

[highwayghost]

Check the battery cables for clean and tight. Also check connections on starter and ground to frame and any other connections that you can find. Sounds like a loose connection, but It very well could be a bad alternator or battery. If the battery goes low or is disconnected any codes that were stored may clear off. Voltage measured at the battery terminals while idling should be about 14 volts. Most auto part stores will also check your battery and charging system for free along with checking for stored codes as stated above.

 

[Netconn]

I installed a new battery about 6 months ago (Interstate) so I don't think that's the problem. I'll start it and meter the voltage. I'm hoping it's not some weird gremlin or a computer module. The bird has 127K miles, thinking the brushes are worn out.

 

[Frankie the Fink]

With your car running at a brisk idle alternator output as measured across the battery terminals should be between 13.8 V and 14.2 V...

 

[Netconn]

Yeah, It's 11 volts... Bad alternator..... And ford put it in such a wonderful spot!!!....

 

[Gus Gutz]

Yeah, It's 11 volts... Bad alternator..... And ford put it in such a wonderful spot!!!....

Mine went bad and my car just died when pulling out into traffic. Luckily I was able to pull into the left turn pocket. At first I thought it was the battery. AutoZone replaced it. My fm transmitter shows the charging voltage and it was about 11 volts. Once the alternator was replaced everything was fine and the transmitter shows 14.4 now. And yes you have to replace it from under the car.

 

[highwayghost]

I put one of these in the power port to monitor the voltage and it also adds a USB for charging.

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[Netconn]

Well, I wrestled that alternator out from under the car.. I vow to never own another ford as long as I live... Took it to the local O'rellys for testing.. It's dead!! Ordered one online.. Can't wait to wrestle the new one back in.

 

[The Flash]

No you don't deserve to own a Ford ever again. The car is 18 year old and has 127,000 miles and the alternators fails. It only takes 1.2 hours to R&R the alternator, for a real mechanic.

 

[Bluskie]

I am having a similar situation with my 03 bird. I just had the valve cover gasket, timing cover gasket, water pump gasket, and oil filter adapter gasket repalaced. When I drove car home, parked and got out closing door, the radio would not shut off. I finally manually turned radio off but clock remained lit. Of course battery went dead by next day. Tried to charge it without success. Took battery in to auto parts store and had dead cells. Purchased new battery and when installed it, (no keys in car) car went berserk with horn honking lights flashing radio blaring and heater blowing full force. Used key fob to turn off the lights and horn alarm but radio and blower not shutting off correctly again. Also, telescoping wheel hasn’t been doing it’s thing all this time. Put new battery on trickle charger but it was dead next day. When we unhooked trickle charger then we hear a whirring or buzzing sound from under hood passenger side near where the box for electric is. After unhooking battery cables noise under hood stops. Also check engine light came on after new battery was installed before battery died. Has anyone had this problem?

 

[highwayghost]

The horn and lights when a battery is reconnected is normal. It has to do with the alarm system. I don't have My Bird handy to check but open fuse/relay (electric) box under the hood. With the battery charged and the engine off, remove and reinstall the fuses and relays one at a time until the buzzing sound your hearing stops. Check the manual for what number it is and what it controls and let us know. The check engine light is an indication there are some codes stored. If you have access to a code reader, check and post the "P code" numbers. I think if you cycle the key three times from off to run (not to start) it will display codes on the dash. Something like that anyway. Disconnecting the battery often clears the codes, at least temporary.

 

[Bluskie]

The horn and lights when a battery is reconnected is normal. It has to do with the alarm system. I don't have My Bird handy to check but open fuse/relay (electric) box. With the battery charged and the engine off, remove and reinstall the fuses and relays one at a time until the buzzing sound your hearing stops. Check the manual for what number it is and what it controls and let us know. The check engine light is an indication there are some codes stored. If you have access to a code reader, check and post the "P code" numbers. I think if you cycle the key three times from off to run (not to start) it will display codes on the dash. Something like that anyway. Disconnecting the battery often clears the codes, at least temporary.

Thanks I will check that today. I don’t have a code reader but can take it to an auto parts store, I’m hoping the disconnecting of battery won’t have already wiped codes out of memory.

 

[highwayghost]

No worries about clearing the codes. If the problem persists, they will return.

 

[05Dave]

So, Murphy's Law. I just listed my 2002 T-bird for sale. It's been perfect for years... And now there seems to be an alternator problem. I was getting the battery light for a few minutes, every so often when I start the car in the morning, it goes off and all seems fine. Yesterday I start the car, no battery light, it was dark so I had the headlights, radio, heater on. I'm driving down the road and the ABS & traction lights come on, next the radio shuts off, next the heater shuts off, my radar detector says "Low Battery" and it shuts off. Headlights dim and engine not running great, but running. I keep driving to get to my destination as best I can. About 5 minutes into this everything comes back on, headlights bright and the ABS & traction lights are off.. All is well again.. I park the car. I drive the car back home later last night and the same thing happened.

I'm assuming the alternator has failed and is intermittent. But I don't see the battery light come on at all. I also assume the computers shut down everything when the battery voltage drops below a set voltage.

Anyone seen this happen?

I had a very similar situation with my C5 2004 Corvette. It was a bad connection on the voltage feedback connecting the alternator to the battery. If the alternator does not have feedback from the battery system the connection is poor, it will intermittently go high then drop off line completely. I haven't looked in the manual as to where this is on the TBird as I do not have my manuals with me in AZ. Thst would be my first thing to look at. Possibly but unlikely is is an alternator. The alternator will not put out any voltage unless it has the feedback which also supplies excitation voltage. Inspect the wiring diagram as to how Ford supplies feedback, it is not necessarily the power connection. On my Corvette it was a #16 gauge wire down at the starter. Each manufacturer does it differently but it is always disconnected when the key is off

 

[Bluskie]

Thanks for the information, I’ll have this checked too. It’s going to the dealer this week. I had battery and alternator checked today at auto parts store, both were fine. Still having odd problems with radio, and heater fan not shutting off, steering wheel not automatically telescoping in and out. By the way, isn’t it possible to turn on or off the telescoping of the steering wheel? I thought so, but can’t remember for sure how to now. Thanks

 

[Gus Gutz]

Have them check the FEM. My radio and clock issues were fixed when it was replaced.