2002 (78,000 miles) - multiple oil leaks

[JUICE]

After a recent oil change, the mechanic informed me that I had three leaks:
- oil pan leak (est. about $400)
- valve cover gasket leak (est. $400-$500)
- timing cap leak (est. about $1,100).

I am sure I have had the valve cover gasket leak repair before (maybe 8-10 years ago), and I can't identify a "timing cap leak" through the magic of Google.

I don't work on the car myself - any suggestions/experience would be appreciated.

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[hemiguy]

Hi.
I suspect he means the timing cover gasket, which is really big job. All of the front accessories need to come off the motor, along with the crankshaft pulley and harmonic balancer etc. Maybe the radiator too if there is not enough clearance to get the cover off.
I recently did one on a Mustang that was leaking water, and of course the casting broke when removing it, so I had to buy another for $270.00. I guess I spent 8 hours to replace a $10.00 gasket.
My advice, for what its worth, is to leave it alone unless you see puddles of oil under the car. A little weeping is ok. Here is a pic, #7 is the cover

 

[booty_malone]

I would add some of this and see how it goes: https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10278-Engine-Stop/dp/B001KXN3YQ

 

[JUICE]

Thanks. Timing cover gasket is indeed the correct term. I still can't find much talk of it on the Interwebs though. The tech said it's been leaking for a long time, but I don't have puddles of oil, so I think I will put it off. The mechanic did mention that the labor was the primary cost, given the access issue.

 

[Threebird]

Your timing cap MAY just be the timing solenoid seal on the valve cover. In which case would sound expensive but really isn't. The timing solenoid is it the top front of both valve covers. The seals are"dealer only" parts. The part # is on the video posted on "threebird valve cover gasket replacement.

 

[Threebird]

Your timing cap MAY just be the timing solenoid seal on the valve cover. In which case would sound expensive but really isn't. The timing solenoid is it the top front of both valve covers. The seals are"dealer only" parts. The part # is on the video posted on "threebird valve cover gasket replacement.

I apologize. I spoke out of place what I was thinking about is not on t birds. Once again I apologize n don't listen to me

 

[mdpigroaster]

Just got back from the dealer having the tranny fluid flush and changed ($250). Had them look at some minor oil leaks and they came back with leaks at the crankcase and oil pan and that the seals need replacing. Apparently the crankcase seal may need a special tool and having replaced both of these type seals in the past on BMWs, I am more inclined to have a mechanic do it for me. They provided estimates of $585 (crankcase seal) and $400 for oil pan seals. This is parts and labor.
1. I could put in an oil seal sealant which could help depending on how much is leaking (and it is minor as over a couple of weeks, I did not see any significant change to the oil level). Of course with oil seal sealant that causes the seals to swell up a little bit more to seal themselves but it could cause other problems with other good seals.
2. I can leave it alone until it becomes more noticeable.
3. I can get it fixed right getting another quote from an independant. Does anyone think these quotes are high, low or normal?

So looking for options and opinions from the forum.

 

[donnyonee]

maybe...
the smog pvc is plugging up and the engine has too much internal pressure causing leaks.
Chevys do that.

 

[biddle]

Have you tried https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10278-Engine-Stop/dp/B001KXN3YQ

 

[Frankie the Fink]

That's a good product, as is Blue Devil Oil Stop Leak. Just used some in my 63 Corvette's crankcase until I get time to put in a new front crankshaft seal this winter....but heck, the leak has stopped !

 

[mdpigroaster]

I'm a little leary about using oil stop leak products although I am considering using the Lucas product. While they may work on my issue with the seals, it is what else they can do that could be harmful long term down the road with the engine. If the engine was needing a rebuild or just replacement, I might consider that as a stop gap measurement. But the engine seems to be in very good shape other than some minor leaks. If anyone has direct info on using a stop leak (they used it, it worked and no long term issues were caused by it), let me know.

 

[Frankie the Fink]

I did a lot of research on the topic and so should you to feel comfortable - these newer products are not like those of yesteryear. I wouldn't have put the stuff in my original "born with" 1963 Corvette split window motor if I wasn't sure it wouldn't harm anything. About 250 miles so far and no issues.

 

[T.Riggs]

How often do you put the stop leak in your crankcase? With every oil change? Or is it once and done?

 

[Frankie the Fink]

I have used Blue Devil Oil Stop Leak products several times successfully...
In general, these products soften aged seals and they swell a bit and will stop or slow a leak....
Its not a "correct" fix but can last a long, long time...

Just follow the directions and hopefully a one time treatment will fix you up...

Finally, if I've learned anything in my year of owning my 02 Thunderbird its not to take anybody's word on repairs....
I've been told I needed a $1,300 steering column tilt mechanism, a $1,500 repair to replace an evaporator discharge air temp sensor and other such nonsense.... (All of which I fixed myself for a few dollars and some time)

 

[PT109]

Wow all good stuff, I unfortunately bought a 2002 tbird and inherited both the fuel tank leaking and the valve cover melting. Just paid my mechanic to replace the cover 3000 miles ago and now its leaking again, guess I'll try the Lucas stop leak and keep my fingers crossed. You would think by now there would be a gasket material out there that can handle the heat.

 

[biddle]

Just paid my mechanic to replace the cover 3000 miles ago and now its leaking again.

In the 22 years I've ran this site, I've never heard of anyone that has reported this is being a design problem. I wouldn't be too quick to blame the engine, obviously when the car was new, people didn't have valve covers melting. If it was a design flaw, they would have all melted when they were new, and they did not. You need to check your coolant temperature with an OBDII app and explore others mechanical issues with this individual car. Your mechanic appears to have fixed the symptom, not the source of problem and of course they are going to do the blame game.

Make sure your cooling system has been burped properly- Post in thread '2002 2003 2004 2005 Ford Thunderbird Thermostat Housing Water Pumps' https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...hermostat-housing-water-pumps.9778/post-73890

 

[Bobwheeler]

The coolant expansion tank (aka: degas bottle) on this engine is in line and pressurized. It is very important that it is burped properly by using the vent valve for same and the procedure which is in the owners manual I think or for sure on this Forum.

OBDII blue tooth units start at $13 on line if you don't have one.

I have a 2004 and no oil leaks so no comment. Good luck.

Currently replacing all 4 shocks. Interesting and fun taken one step at a time. The rest of the suspention will be done over time. I am getting to know this car.