What's draining my battery ?

  • Thread starter Andy in Florida
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Thanks - I have viewed many "how to" videos and visited numerous websites on the problem - all to no avail except as follows: Yesterday, I used a procedure that is based on a TSB (#05-22-9) that FoMoCo issued in '05 to address this problem. Here is the link: http://www.justanswer.com/ford/1z6zu-battery-lincoln-ls-2000-keeps-dying-already.html
I was unable to find the actual TSB anywhere online.

My 'Bird enters the "standby mode" (850mA or less) normally. It does not go into the "power down" mode (35mA or less). The lowest it will go is about 150mA. Pulling fuses to find the excess current draw will not work when attempting to solve a "power down" problem. Doing so causes the electronic modules to "wake up" and then reenter the standby mode. It appears the only way to solve the "power down" problem is use of a tool used by dealer technicians, a New Generation Star tester (see at http://www.oemtools.com/homeproducts/ford.html ). That tool, or its successor (Ford's Integrated Diagnostic System [IDS] - see at same link) is used to test for causes of failure to enter the "power down" mode. Until I have this done, I will use a battery maintainer when the car is to be idle for more than 3 days.

Fred Hudspeth (AKA "Silver Bird")
2004 Thunderbird
Tyler, Tx
 

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I store my 2003 tbird a few miles from home. I try to get it out on the road frequently enough, but twice I've found my battery to be dead. I may have found a solution: I turn off the security system with the key when I store it. Turn the key all the way left then right then remove key. Or is it the other way around? The final turn locks it, so whichever way that is. The red light on the dashboard and the one under will not blink so you know you got it right. Have not had that particular problem since, but I rarely let it go more that 4 or 5 weeks without driving it.
 
Big D TB said:
I store my 2003 tbird a few miles from home. I try to get it out on the road frequently enough, but twice I've found my battery to be dead. I may have found a solution: I turn off the security system with the key when I store it. Turn the key all the way left then right then remove key. Or is it the other way around? The final turn locks it, so whichever way that is. The red light on the dashboard and the one under will not blink so you know you got it right. Have not had that particular problem since, but I rarely let it go more that 4 or 5 weeks without driving it.
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Thanks for your comments. In my case, it was a defective Optima Red Top battery, despite the battery checking to be fully functional (and less than six months old!). I removed a fully functional "Red Top" from another of my cars and installed it in the Thunderbird and observed for a month or so. 'End of problem for the T'bird. The other car then had the same problem with the battery from the T'bird. 'Bought the battery from Amazon in Q4/2016...Advised Amazon/customer service of the problem and what I had done to diagnose it. They promptly sent a replacement battery, $0.000 . I installed it in the T'bird. 'No recurrence of the problem I described in January with the T'bird over the last three months. Lesson learned: a battery that tests "OK" may not be...

Fred Hudspeth (AKA "Silver Bird")
2004 Thunderbird
Tyler, Tx
 
Jan said:
I got to the solution in mine after replacing about 6 batteries. First, it is something that is refusing to allow the car computer to go into sleep mode. That knowledge helped me. Turn your motor off in complete silence and listen. You may hear a very faint clicking noise. It's very very faint. Mine was something in the air conditioner. After trying several things, I found that if I turn it all off, then turn on the defroster with AC for just a minute or two. I then cut off and shut the car off again, and the clicking is gone. I've had no more battery problems since about January. I have to do this every time I shut the car off. Sometimes the clicking is there and occasionally not.

It might be your air system, the radio, or anything connected with it. But I found my answer...as crazy as it sounds.
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merlin said:
My dealer said that the reason for my battery draining down was that there was a short in the CD player. After trying various things; e.g. removing fuses, etc. the draining didn't stop. When removing & disconnecting the radio, the problem no longer existed, thus validating the Dealer's diagnosis. Searching online, I found a company in California (Hi-Tech electronics) that confirmed this was a common problem. I then sent them the radio/CD player for repair & have since reinstalled it. No longer have the problem.
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My 2002 T-Bird is in the shop now while on vacation as it had overheating issues, but have explained that they can't read from the ODB port to the PCM. Further, they explained that the loop has a number more than 10 items that all have to be checked to identify where the short is at as until removed can't pull from PCM/reset code. On the 2002 model, these are on the common loop connection and not home run to the PCM as in newer cars, which is a bad reality for troubleshooting. After 4 hours of troubleshooting they found that there is a short from the radio and once removed they found that they could read from the ODB/PCM and that the thermostat indeed had failed. They are fixing it now and I haven't heard if they are going to be able to hook back the radio, as I would rather not have 8 hours of silence/road noise; but if only issue is I can't pull from ODB I will take that option.

Not knowing if the short on the CD is the same short in the Radio did you send Hi-Tech the whole unit? Do you remember how much this cost and is it still fixed/pleased with results? I am researching videos now on self removal of radio as I'm a bit of novice when it comes to this.

I know there are lots of suggestions on replacements, but I am trying to stay "OEM" and less cost overall. I would love a 03-05 T-Bird or newer non OEM model with features/Satellite but I like the OEM look and also don't want to spend all the $ to retrofit and possibly lose car /radio control functions via steering wheel controls, etc.

Thanks.
 
When trying to find a parasitic drain, one should never pull fuses. However there is an easier way to find the drain with a Multimeter. You hook the multimeter between the negative post of the battery and the negative terminal wire. The meter will then give you then the amount of draw the car is experiencing. You need to wait at least one hour for everything to power down except of course the problematic issue. Don't open a door or anything as you will wake the car up, so your trunk, hood, and passenger fuse boxes should all be ready to be worked on without disturbing the car. You will need to keep the passenger car door open to reach the interior fuse box so you need to tape the latch closed so the computer thinks the door is closed. Be sure to wait that 1 full hour. You then check each fuse by placing the points of the leads of the meter on top of each fuse. As you go from fuse to fuse the meter will show you if there is any draw. Its tedious but this is how the shops do it. There are plenty of very good videos on YouTube to show you how and it doesn't need to be a TBird. This parasitic draw happens to all brands of cars ever since the need to keep the computers functioning. No modern car is ever really off, they are just sleeping. My parasitic draw was my rearview mirror which I am told the map lights are the problem. Some have said the rear defroster doesnt go to sleep after use.
 
Andy in Florida said:
I have a 2002 TBird that has developed yet another puzzling problem ~ something is draining my new battery. First the map lights would not turn off ~ I unplugged the map light ~ battery died the next day. Any ideas or thoughts ?
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Andy, I have the same problem - what was your solution
 
Andy in Florida said:
I have a 2002 TBird that has developed yet another puzzling problem ~ something is draining my new battery. First the map lights would not turn off ~ I unplugged the map light ~ battery died the next day. Any ideas or thoughts ?
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Hi do you by chance have ( guide point ) it's a tracking device if your car is ever stolen. A lot of Dealership added them on at point of sale...
 
I only use "AGM" (glass mat) batteries in my vehicles now, due to all the electronic gimmicks & gadgets that draw some power, even with ignition switch off. These batteries are more expensive (about $200+) but usually come with 4- or 5-year non-prorated warranty. I check customer reviews of all AGM brands before buying.
 
Black Bird said:
I have a 2002 T-Bird with 33,000 miles on it. My first battery lasted 10 years without any need to recharge it. My second battery is now about 4 years old-no problems. You must have something that is slowly draining down your battery.
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I just replaced my 14 year old orginal battery 2 months ago .
 
After purchasing my 2002 tbird, I experienced a dead battery twice...had my mechanic check,,we removed the trunk light...the mechanism for this switch is not very well engineered,,,removed the bulb,,,no problems in 3 months
 
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