Picked up this 2002 dirty Bird....

The actuators and door sensor switches are standard across that era Ford lineup and carid or rockauto has them for 1/5th the price of the dealer...yours prob have gummed up lube in them from the car sitting. I changed mine in both doors and there is a tutorial on here about how to get the door cards off. I think maybe the paint on these cars was less than great from the factory - my Torch Red '02 has swirls and the paint is thin, mainly on the trunk to the point that there are clearly some places that I'm reluctant to buff, replaced the FEM and fixed the A/C and that's the only issues with the car in my 15 months of ownership so far. I plan on driving it until I don't want it anymore. For what I paid, and only 19,000 miles when purchased, I'll worry about timing chains a long time from now as I'm putting about 5,000 miles/year on it. At that point, the car will either be a collectible and worth an expensive repair, or, a just an old car that might best be sold for parts. Not losing sleep over it right now.

A Porter-Kable buffer and Mequiar's Ultra-Glaze are a good, low risk way to try to buff your paint and bring it back where you can.

You should change the cabin air filter too - its prob as grungy as you can imagine.

Thanks. I did get the actuators and have replaced the cabin filter. Will be pulling door panel today and replacing the actuators.
 

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My efforts at fixing the power locks were 50% successful. Got the passenger side to work but driver does not. Anyone think the switch may be bad? Both switches do work the passenger door....

Oh and I did spend some cash putting some BFG tires on her... No more cracked tires...
 
Of course it could be the switch. I have seen failed switches, likely due to getting wet from the window. Even taken them apart and repaired. While I'm not a fan of just replacing parts without thoroughly diagnosing the problem, switches are cheap and easy to replace. Often auto manufactures use small parts, like switches, in several models. So finding one and replacing should be easy and relativity inexpensive. They may be the same on each side so a test may be to swap them right to left. Do you have service or wiring manual?

 
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I have the same outlook, don't like throwing parts at problems I don't know but sometimes the parts are so cheap it's worth throwing a few to begin with and see if I get lucky. Actuators were like $15 for 2 and the switch is about $20 so I don't mind experimenting. The one thing that I noticed is that the lock does not work with the switch or the remote. Would the switch not make the remote work either? I guess if the remote's signal had to eventually go through the switch's contact then it would...
Thanks for the link...

I did find the usual issues with these cars while getting new tires.... Pretty much all the rubber for ball joints, sway bar links and torque arms are shot. Is it best to just replace all the components or can ball joints and bushings be replaced with a press?

Also, I did find the front brakes need replacing so ordered the front set.
 
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Yes, the remote signals the computer and sends voltage through the switch to the door actuator. Some here have said that pressing parts into the aluminum A arms is difficult, if not impossible. So replacing the entire component is the way I would go, if needed. At 17k miles my '03 suspension parts also have bad boots. The suspension parts are tight, just bad boots. I have been replacing only the boots. It is some work, but not very expensive. The trick is to have a digital caliper to measure the correct size needed for each spot. Poly, Silicone, Rubber your choice.

 
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Great . My suspension is also tight. I wiggled tires and no movement at all. I will look into boots only.
Thanks
 
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Succeeeeeessssss…. Tonight I was able to get the last bolt on the COPS cover and replace the last 4 plugs and COPS. I did have some oil in 3 plugs so that gasket is ready to be replaced. The other side had oil on one plug... That looks like somewhat of a painful process so it will have to wait!

Next: Front Brakes followed by AC diagnostics.... Oh and I ordered a power lock switch to see if it fixes the driver's side lock...
 
Fuel filter, done! Overall easy job. Remove driver side wheel. Remove the back wheel well liner. Remove clips and remove hoses (watch for fuel under pressure and dripping fuel), remove bolt from filter bracket and remove filter, install new one...
Fuel Filter 1.jpgFuel FIlter 2.jpgFuel Filter 3.jpgFuel Filter 4.jpgFuel Filter 5.jpgFuel FIlter 6.jpgFuel FIlter 7.jpg
 
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