Oil Leak

[vmoore]

Smelled a burning smell. Brought it in to shop. They said it had an oil leak. Needed a new tube L something. They said put it back together and found a leak on the other side. Waiting part for that side. This is an '02 Bird. Anyone else had this prob? Just glad it's still under warranty, but hope this isn't something I have to look forward to ever again. 😕

 

[Quickdraw]

Smelled a burning smell. Brought it in to shop. They said it had an oil leak. Needed a new tube L something. They said put it back together and found a leak on the other side. Waiting part for that side. This is an '02 Bird. Anyone else had this prob? Just glad it's still under warranty, but hope this isn't something I have to look forward to ever again. 😕

Not heard of that one - let us know if you find out exactly what the problem was. One thing to check before your warranty runs out is the top boss that holds in your headlights (under hood) In a large percent of 2002 cars this plastic boss is severly cracked or broken. (redesigned for 2003)

 

[George]

Yes, please post the fix that they write on your work order. This is the first I've heard of an oil leak on any TBird.

 

[vmoore]

Oil Leak Work Order

Ok, here is what it says, "Black light dye leak test, oil leaking from both valve covers and oil filler tube. Replace both valve cover gaskets. Replace oil filler tube." So, nobody else has had this problem? Guess I'm just lucky! NOT!!!!

 

[Blueoil1]

Oil Leak 2002 T Bird

I've experienced an oily odor (burning oil smell) for quite some time in my 2002 early production (#1760) T. It was most noticeable when I drove the car for the first time after it sat unused for three or more days.
Long story I had a leaking right valve cover gasket. Dealer replaced… as the T is no longer under the 36 month warranty, my extended warranty kicked in and the repair cost me $50.00.
I’ll drive around this weekend and see if all is OK. 😎

 

[lsbit]

The 3.9l v8 valve cover gaskets and plug seals go bad and have been revised. It happens to most of us 2000-2001 LS owners.

 

[PhilD]

oil leaks and burning smell

Yep I have had my 02 TBird for almost 2 years with about 58,000 on her, had oil in the valve area flooding the coils and plugs so took part of the engine apart and replaced the gaskets. Now I have the burning oil smell but no leaks visible anywhere not even on the ground. Upon reading all the articles here and elsewhere I came to the conclusion it must be the oil dipstick tube so looked up the schematics on the ford parts web site. I highly recommend it, its easy to use and you can see all the parts and find the number/price for them. Oh also when I stopped the car and sniffed for the burning smell on the engine it led me to the drivers side which is where the dipstick is again no oil anywhere to be seen on top, underneath or anywhere. Si it must just be leaking out and burning off as the engine runs, makes sense

So just got the grommet needed from my dealership and will attempt to replace that, has to be noted when I changed the valve gaskets you have to release the dipstick tube from the engine so doing that alone can possibly upset it and now having replaced those gaskets the only weak spot is probably that tube where it goes into the engine.

Will update when I have fitted the grommet.

If anyone has questions about working on these cars please ask, I am not a mechanic but have been working on cars all my life. Will try to help if possible.

Phil

 

[George]

Phil the “burning oil smell but no leaks visible leaks” could possibly be from the original leak. No matter how good you may have cleaned the block, it is possible that there is still oil residue present, and it should eventually burn off.
With the fan blowing, that smell could be circulating and hard to find.
I say, take it out for a good run and see if that makes it go away (burns off).

As for the oil dipstick tube, yes keep us informed. Good Luck🙂

 

[PhilD]

update on oil leak

Oh I replaced the valve covers ages ago so know its not that.

Went to replace the grommet on the oil dipstick tube but the problem is you cannot actually get to where the tube goes into the sump so I can remove it no problem but putting it back in could be a problem plus what is the grommet does not come out with the tube then you have trouble.

I inspected even further and still find no leak or stains from any leak so had another idea. What is its the dipstick loose or not sealing in the tube so upon inspection found the "O" ring (or rubber washer as we usually call it) was very tired, bit loose and did not hold the dipstick in place. When you go to remove it the stick just pulls out very easily, so replaced that from a box set I have from harbor freight and the new one holds it in the tube with just a little bit of grip not much but noticeable.

I ran the car for ten minutes and no smell but did not have the chance to take her on the road and put her under pressure so will have to see further but this may be the problem as well or just another.

The thing that made me think of this is that I have an old 1999 Chevy Suburban with 183,000 miles on the engine, still runs good but has her little problems. Just the other day I got the smell of burning oil, so stopped popped the hood and saw the dipstick was partially out, pushed it in no more smells. I checked that one and yes the "O" ring was worn, replaced it and now fine.

So just for people out there check the dipstick itself, if it come sout the tube with easy maybe it needs a new washer, especially if your TBird is not run as much as a usual car and or plus you live in a warm dry states as do I in California.

Hope this helps someone.

Phil

 

[George]

Thanks Phil, great post!🙂

 

[PhilD]

still oil smell

Okay the dipstick was not the source of the oil smell, so going to investigate further, had a suspicion it may have been the brake fluid reservoir where it sits on the master cylinder maybe the seals where they join have perished slowly but tied a rag round the area, ran the vehicle until the smell came back but no evidence of a leak. May still be that will look further or maybe the new seals/gaskets I replaced inside the valve covers for the spark plug holes perhaps I have a leak there but not sure, will check.

Still have no actual sign of a leak, no fluid anywhere so don't think its large just a small amount that perhaps burns away.

Phil

 

[George]

Ok, here is what it says, "Black light dye leak test, oil leaking from both valve covers and oil filler tube. Replace both valve cover gaskets. Replace oil filler tube." So, nobody else has had this problem? Guess I'm just lucky! NOT!!!!

VM: Was the oil filler tube actually leaking? Did it have a rubber gasket like the dip stick tube that PhilD mentioned above? 😕

 

[PhilD]

extra part found with problems

Okay just to add to the list of things causing this smell, just found a cable that has an outer padded sleeve which is rubbing/possibly melting against the brake vacuum booster unit, turns out after searching its the cruise control actuator cable. So if you know what the brake booster is look below and if a padded cable is running below it just check it out, mine has definite smooth marking like its rubbing or slowly melting against the booster, and you can see its resting against it, will try to tie it loosely away from there without causing it any operating trouble.

Just another thing for people to check.

Phil

 

[PhilD]

leak located

Okay just to let people know I have located the leak and it seems the brake fluid reservoir situated above the master cylinder is leaking from the cap, I ahve since replaced the cap with the correct motorcraft part but its still losing fluid the same way. I did some homework and at the time this 2002 model was built the ford escape was recalled due to the same problem so it may be a design flaw. Of course getting ford to do something now is impossible. Will have to scratch my head a little more over this.

You can see the fluid and it leaves a layer of oil on the top front of the reservoir, run your finger over it and you will see.

Its a pain because if I take the car out after its gotten hot and the brakes used it leaks a little and starts to burn it on the engine as it gets sprayed back when you are driving.

Phil

 

[George]

Phil:
This has been an interesting few months following what you looked into and what you did. Man, you have patience 😎
I am sure the results of this will be helpful to others over the years.

By the way, my '02 always had fluid outside the cover and Ford replaced it twice back in 2002, but it still always had fluid around the outside edge. So I have always made sure to wipe it down every few months and never had an oil smell.
Thanks, for your update and GOOD POSTINGS!!🙂

 

[George]

Phil:
Did you consider taking the cap back for replacement. Possibly another will not leak.
By the way, I went out and looked at mine this AM and it appears that it has not leaked in a while, so possibly another change may fix your problem. In fact now that I think of it, I haven't wiped it down for very long time.

 

[PhilD]

Oil on reservoir

There should never be any oil on the reservoir and if so be concerned as the leak could always one day get worse, you lose pressure and oil then you lose your brakes. It should be a sealed system mainly to keep pressure and to avoid contaminants/moisture from entering the system.

I may try to change the cap again or change the entire reservoir, still thinking it over. Brake fluid is one of those things that almost never gets touched just to check it occasionally and the tiny little top up from evaporation, nothing else.

I will keep you updated as to my progress

Phil

 

[PhilD]

brake leak and valve cover leak

Okay finally got to the bottom of some problems with oil leaks, the brake fluid leak turned out we were getting pressure building up in the reservoir and it was forcing the fluid out from under the reservoir cap. The brake pedal was very hard when pushed, turns out we had an air lock, not sure how as no actual leaks anywhere but as I have only had the car a few years not sure what other people have treated her. Anyway we bled the brakes from the rear right side as that's the furthest point, yes we had air, ran until it was gone, now pedal is a lot softer but she still stops okay and no leak from the reservoir.

That in itself did not solve the leak where I could find no fluid but had it burning off the exhaust manifold and got smoke coming up and out from under the hood. Turned out when I replaced the gaskets on the valve covers the furthest bolt was not tightened properly, totally my fault. Ended up the best way to tighten it up is from below. The way I found it was I finally found some oil on the end of one of the two bolts that fix the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Finally saw the oil drips from the corner of the valve cover.

Now whilst doing all this (and its all good for you guys and gals to check on yours for problems) we found some other damaged components. If you remove your rear wheels you have two parts, the sway bar that stops your wheel from moving outwards or inwards and a lateral link bar (that's fords name for it) which is kind of like a track control rod. The bushings on these had totally broken/cracked and leaked. The sway bars are cheap off any car parts person on ebay but the lateral link bar is expensive, $176 from ford or $119 off ebay, new! Unfortunately you cannot just replace the bushings like you did on the old cars, no ford in there wisdom have made it so you replace the complete unit. remember one of each of these for either side.

Now these parts are important as without the bushes to add that bit of help the bars could eventually break due to use, if you find you have a bit of a clunk when reversing up a driveway that could be the reason so please check these out. I will see if I can attach a photo of these parts on the car.

Well this forum will not let me upload a picture so sorry everyone.

Phil