Coolant Leak on 2005

I have developed a so far minor coolant leak that lands on the garage floor behind the drivers front tire and in a bit. It is suspiciously close to the location of the coolant overflow reservoir. It looks like a pain to remove the reservoir, so I thought I would check first to see if anyone has had the same leak and what was the problem. Thanks :)
 
Common as the Degas bottle ages it can develop a crack(s) the open as the coolant heats up the plastic bottle than as the coolant cools the cracks reseal themselves.
It is a back bending chore to replace as it least for me I am not at a comfortable height to work in area. But not difficult.
It has been documented that the less expensive after market bottles do not hold up well. That a bottle from Ford send to hold up better.
 
First check to see if the
I have developed a so far minor coolant leak that lands on the garage floor behind the drivers front tire and in a bit. It is suspiciously close to the location of the coolant overflow reservoir. It looks like a pain to remove the reservoir, so I thought I would check first to see if anyone has had the same leak and what was the problem. Thanks :)
See if the bleed screw is
I have developed a so far minor coolant leak that lands on the garage floor behind the drivers front tire and in a bit. It is suspiciously close to the location of the coolant overflow reservoir. It looks like a pain to remove the reservoir, so I thought I would check first to see if anyone has had the same leak and what was the problem. Thanks :)
See if the bleed screw is closed all the way
 
Thank you for the input. I checked the bleed screw and it was tight, but good idea. It’s probably the bottle. So I guess I have a little work to do. I will try to get the Ford bottle online.
 

BillM

Active Member
As a precaution might want to check all plastic under the hood upper radiator hose has plastic, thermostat housing is plastic and radiator has plastic tanks. All of this has aged, I found my self putting one thing then another on. Looking back I would have just bit the bullet as they say and replaced anything plastic that was thermal cycling over the years. I found a diverter valve and even though not leaking put it on while doing the radiator. Might save your engine from over heating
 

FANZ

50th anniversary torch red
I have developed a so far minor coolant leak that lands on the garage floor behind the drivers front tire and in a bit. It is suspiciously close to the location of the coolant overflow reservoir. It looks like a pain to remove the reservoir, so I thought I would check first to see if anyone has had the same leak and what was the problem. Thanks :)
I just bought a 2005 TBIRD and the prior owner had a leak where the ac wasn’t blowing cool air. I have the receipt it cost $867 to run a whole new line to the compressor. Glad it happened before i bough the car. The coolant and everything checked out and all is good but expensive on his end to get fixed 2 weeks prio to selling to me. Original owner 46k on it.
 
Thank you for the input. I checked the bleed screw and it was tight, but good idea. It’s probably the bottle. So I guess I have a little work to do. I will try to get the Ford bottle online.
I had the same problem 3 months ago. The cost of the tank that comes with the 1/2" hose about 2 ft long from Ford is $240. I got mine new for $38 from AM auto parts.
TO remove the tank I removed the wiper blades and arms then the plastic covering in front of the windshield, then follow the bottom water hose from the tank to a pipe behind the L. Cyl head, (the hose runs behind the brake booster, I cut the hose with a razor blade to remove it from the pipe, then just unbolt the plastic tank and remove the other hoses connected marking what hose goes where. Pull the tank out. (The tank has a blank dead end hose fitting).

The new tank comes with the hose and a new cap. Installing the hose that was cut off the pipe near the cyl head is a problem (no room for your hands) I used long reach hose pliers see at; https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-long-reach-hose-grip-pliers-37909.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products|All+Products|37909&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=s|pcrid|327822404853|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|slid||product|37909|&pgrid=71439424048&ptaid=pla-296274828640&pcid=1688396772&intent=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxN22hPPg5QIViKDsCh3y7gIvEAQYASABEgLTZvD_BwE

I was able to release the OEM constant tighten hose clamps with normal pliers but could not get them back on the hose that goes behind the cyl head. So I used the screw tighten style.
 
Do not buy a degas bottle without also getting a new cap with it.

Another responder is correct about non Ford bottles.

I just decided to repair my crack on a seam (about 1/2 inch long) with glass 2 bid patch.
Put back together and new cap works normal. My old cap did not pass pressure test.

$7 cap and $3 fiberglass and epoxy plus a gallon of antifreeze to replenish my loss.

The problem was hard to isolate and was frustrating when an eBay Motor’s degas bottle was junk and did not seal well with the cap.
 
Top