2005 Hardtop latch doesn't tighten enough fix

[Brax]

If anyone has a hard top that the rear latch doesn't pull it down enough to firmly seal or the top makes noise over bumps there is a easy fix that doesn't involve cutting welds on the 2 post nuts also the rear defroster can be repaired if it is split in half when the latch is removed. If anyone is interested, I will post what I did to correct mine. Not sure if this is a no topic at this point for folks.

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[rjdimonda]

If anyone has a hard top that the rear latch doesn't pull it down enough to firmly seal or the top makes noise over bumps there is a easy fix that doesn't involve cutting welds on the 2 post nuts also the rear defroster can be repaired if it is split in half when the latch is removed. If anyone is interested, I will post what I did to correct mine. Not sure if this is a no topic at this point for folks.

I think all solutions to weird problems that emerge are welcomed. One thing to consider and check on is whether the little plastic insert spacer is still present. If its missing it might reduce the tightness of the fit. Not sure but maybe something to look for. This strangely shaped disc can easily come out when the hardtop is removed and sometimes falls into the cavity below.

 

[Brax]

• Latch lever should require a firm pull to the full front position and you can feel the seal compressing when the lever is pulled the the full forward position, my left side was very tight the right side required very little effort to move to the full forward position so I only had to do the Right side (passenger side) over bumps the right side would make noise over larger bumps. Also the rear defroster connector was split in half so I repaired that also. The Left side is easier to do because there is no wire connection.
• Remove the hard top and place on it’s stand.
• Remove the port hole trim, carefully start at the rear upper behind the port hole and gently pull the plastic trim away working down so all 3 trim clips disengage then apply outward pressure to the front of the trim and the panel will pop free, slide the trim panel off the lever.
• You will see the 3 Torx bolts that hold the latch on to the hardtop these are the same as the torx wrench for the hardtop supplied with the car. You will see that there are white alignment marks on the 3 bolts areas of the latch from the factory you will use these to realign the latch when you reinstall it.
• Remove the latch assembly and you will see the 3 slots the slots are .340-.345 wide ideally milling the bottom of each slot .060 to make each slot .400 to .410 but I do not have access to a Bridgeport anymore so I used a Dremel tool with a rotary file NOTE use caution and take your time.
• Scribe a line under the bottom of the 3 slots the line will be .060 under the slot and be your max guide.
• The Left side is easy as you can carefully mount in a vise and use the Dremel (WEAR SAFTEY GLASSES) to remove stock slowly from the bottom of the three latch slots until you are at the scribe line or unit you just barely can see it. Just remove from the flat area do not go into the radius on the ends and only on the bottom.
• The right side is a challenge unless like me your rear defogger plastic connector is broken. If your connector is intact cover the top inside and out with good plastic sheet so no metal shavings get on the top, I tried on 2 tops to disconnect the connector by the port hole and had no luck so take your time and use care when you remove the material.
• When your done touch up the bare metal and let dry
• Reassemble the latch using the bolts you removed but put a washer on the bolt .315 ID x .740 OD x .070 thick steel washer the sharp edge of the washer faces the latch. Position the latch so the bottom of the latch is against the bolt and the alignment marks are close to the original marks on all three bolts. (The bolts marks do not mean anything it’s the latch marks. Tighten the 3 bolts
• Test the fit with the top on and replace the trim if good.
• The rear defroster plastic connector can be bonded together using JB weld plastic bonding epoxy black if it is just split in half after you replace the latch, align the two pieces with the tab washer and epoxy just the crack area both sides making sure you do not over apply so it gets inside the connector and use a 6 inch hand spring clamp to hold together for 24 hours. Remove the clamp and apply a coat of JB to one side coveing the crack wait a day do the second side let dry 24 hours and you should be good.
• Hope this helps you, you do at your risk I'm just sharing info. Latch's are flat pattern bent and pems are installed in the hardtop are seem to be different. If you measure the latch to the dowel, you will find they are all the same as i am sure they were set on a factory jig. easier than cutting the nut welds 4 places to get the same .050 to .060 added pull length of the locking post. I have done this with 2 tops.
• Sorry for any grammar or mis spelling.

 

[Ronaldo]

If anyone has a hard top that the rear latch doesn't pull it down enough to firmly seal or the top makes noise over bumps there is a easy fix that doesn't involve cutting welds on the 2 post nuts also the rear defroster can be repaired if it is split in half when the latch is removed. If anyone is interested, I will post what I did to correct mine. Not sure if this is a no topic at this point for folks.

I am interested.

 

[elvi48]

I think all solutions to weird problems that emerge are welcomed. One thing to consider and check on is whether the little plastic insert spacer is still present. If its missing it might reduce the tightness of the fit. Not sure but maybe something to look for. This strangely shaped disc can easily come out when the hardtop is removed and sometimes falls into the cavity below.

This is my problem I believe. The plastic defoster connector is broken. Anyone have repair suggestions?

 

[Brax]

This is my problem I believe. The plastic defoster connector is broken. Anyone have repair suggestions?

Read my post before yours it tells you how to fix that very problem

This is my problem I believe. The plastic defoster connector is broken. Anyone have repair suggestions?

As a follow up the plastic connector is only for the rear defrost it has zero, no effect on the tightness of the hard top. They get broken because folks aren’t careful when putting on the hard top