2004 wrench and then engine light

[tdn13]

I have read with interest the various postings about replacing the ignition coils and the throttle actuator to resolve the warning lights and failure codes linking back to both of these issues. I have replaced all coils and the actuator now. After short test runs, all appears to be perfect. However, after driving for about 30 minutes today, the engine light and wrench came on, plus the engine was running rough. I pulled over, turned off the engine, opened the hood, and the heat coming off that engine was tremendous. I removed the engine cover that appears to be there only for decorative purposes and it was so hot I could only handle it with gloves. I put it in the trunk. The ambient temperature was in the 70's at the time. I then reset the lights by disconnecting the battery cable and then reattaching the battery cable. The warning lights went off, the car began to run smooth, and I drove if for hours the rest of the day without any issues, although I was relatively gentle with the acceleration. Is there any chance the heat buildup in the engine compartment is causing the air to be super hot in the actuator or causing a coil to malfunction?

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[biddle]

I then reset the lights by disconnecting the battery cable and then reattaching the battery cable.

Did you read the codes before you cleared them? If so what were they? Obviously you have a problem, the car was designed to operate with the appearance cover.

 

[doug7740]

I agree with @biddle that you should have read the fault codes so you know what caused the engine light and wrench light to illuminate. After checking and recording the fault codes, I always check the Freeze Frame Data to see what the conditions were when the fault code was set. Freeze Frame Data allows access to emission-related values from specific generic PIDs. These values are stored when an emission-related DTC is stored in Continuous Memory. This provides a snapshot of the conditions that were present when the DTC was stored. Since you stated that the engine cover was so hot you could only handle it with gloves, the Freeze Frame Data would have told you exactly what the coolant temperature was when the fault was set.

Below is just a small sample of the Freeze Frame Data.

doug7740
1955 Thinderbird Blue

 

[James Shoaf]

I have read with interest the various postings about replacing the ignition coils and the throttle actuator to resolve the warning lights and failure codes linking back to both of these issues. I have replaced all coils and the actuator now. After short test runs, all appears to be perfect. However, after driving for about 30 minutes today, the engine light and wrench came on, plus the engine was running rough. I pulled over, turned off the engine, opened the hood, and the heat coming off that engine was tremendous. I removed the engine cover that appears to be there only for decorative purposes and it was so hot I could only handle it with gloves. I put it in the trunk. The ambient temperature was in the 70's at the time. I then reset the lights by disconnecting the battery cable and then reattaching the battery cable. The warning lights went off, the car began to run smooth, and I drove if for hours the rest of the day without any issues, although I was relatively gentle with the acceleration. Is there any chance the heat buildup in the engine compartment is causing the air to be super hot in the actuator or causing a coil to malfunction?

On the Birds with OBD, a Blue Driver is a great tool to determine any of these issues and it gives you the recommended fix .. $100 bucks or so ...
You can also read coolant temp as you drive; displayed on your iPhone .... I use the same device on my daily drivers and when I needed to "reset" the computer on my 2017 Ridgeline, (after having a dead battery) in order to get a state inspection, it told me when I had driven it enough to have an inspected ...

 

[tdn13]

Did you read the codes before you cleared them? If so what were they? Obviously you have a problem, the car was designed to operate with the appearance cover.

Yes, and no. The issues started with the engine lights coming on, the engine sputtering, and Forced Limited Power enacted, and the Code taken was P2106. That led me to replace the Throttle Actuator Control Assembly. That only helped for a short time and the lights came on again. After reading comments herein, I replaced the ignition coils since it was a low cost fix. I have not taken another reading since the initial reading because the ignition coils seemed to have fixed the problem in my test runs.
One clarification, my comments on temperature were ambient related only. The coolant temperature readings have never indicated anything other than normal.
Thanks for your reply. This may just be beyond my capabilities.

 

[doug7740]

When you read the fault codes again, take a look at the Freeze Frams Data to see what the conditions were when the fault code was stored. Ambient or intake air temperature will be displayed in the Freeze Frame Data.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[tdn13]

I have read with interest the various postings about replacing the ignition coils and the throttle actuator to resolve the warning lights and failure codes linking back to both of these issues. I have replaced all coils and the actuator now. After short test runs, all appears to be perfect. However, after driving for about 30 minutes today, the engine light and wrench came on, plus the engine was running rough. I pulled over, turned off the engine, opened the hood, and the heat coming off that engine was tremendous. I removed the engine cover that appears to be there only for decorative purposes and it was so hot I could only handle it with gloves. I put it in the trunk. The ambient temperature was in the 70's at the time. I then reset the lights by disconnecting the battery cable and then reattaching the battery cable. The warning lights went off, the car began to run smooth, and I drove if for hours the rest of the day without any issues, although I was relatively gentle with the acceleration. Is there any chance the heat buildup in the engine compartment is causing the air to be super hot in the actuator or causing a coil to malfunction?

My 2004 Thunderbird continues to show the P2106 code intermittently and I bought a scan tool to get more data. I read it yesterday and here is what the readout indicates. The tool readout suggests a new Throttle Position Sensor and ECM reprogram. Does that sound like a good fix based on the attached?

 

[doug7740]

There are two Technical Service Bulletins that you might want to look at first.

TSB Number: 17740

Electronic throttle control warning message or lamp on - malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on with diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P2106 - possible driveability symptoms.

TSB Number: 04219

Malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) and electronic throttle control (etc) lamps on with both diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P2106 and P2135.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[number3]

ok so how is the ecm reprogrammed ?