2002 dual coolant control valve. | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
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2002 dual coolant control valve.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Gus Gutz
  • Start date Start date
Gus Gutz

Gus Gutz

Reaction score
304
Thunderbird Year
2002
Any one here ever replace this valve. It controls the coolant going to the heater core. According to the dealer, hot coolant going in but not coming out. Any advice here? Thanks

Moderator Note- See this thread for A/C Troubleshooting- https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum...ne-side-2002-2003-2004-2005-thunderbird.9446/

Link to order part- https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...teid=0&campid=5338236430&toolid=20008&mkevt=1

Installation photos below- https://forums.fordthunderbirdforum.com/threads/2002-dual-coolant-control-valve.6993/post-56530
dueltemp.jpg

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This valve is not difficult to replace. It is located on pass. side of radiator about half way down. You'll see it has wiring to electric ly open close valve, careful with the connectors they can get brittle.
Also you will loose some coolant if you catch it when you disconnect the hoses.
Can easily beat up your hands switching this unit out so be cautious.
 
I had ours changed at the Ford dealership in Florence Ky. Expensive but didn't lose any blood and no problem with air in the system afterward. Works like new again.
 
This valve is not difficult to replace. It is located on pass. side of radiator about half way down. You'll see it has wiring to electric ly open close valve, careful with the connectors they can get brittle.
Also you will loose some coolant if you catch it when you disconnect the hoses.
Can easily beat up your hands switching this unit out so be cautious.
Any one here ever replace this valve. It controls the coolant going to the heater core. According to the dealer, hot coolant going in but not coming out. Any advice here? Thanks
I
Any one here ever replace this valve. It controls the coolant going to the heater core. According to the dealer, hot coolant going in but not coming out. Any advice here? Thanks
I had a real difficult time replacing mine last week. I didn't move aside the fan reservoir like the manual says to get better access. I did remove the intake duct, upper radiator hose. Wear long sleeves so you don't scrape up your arms too bad. I think it took me around 4 hours total. My 2002 wasn't blowing any hot air before, but the new DCCV valve works well. I like to think I'm fairly mechanical, and as a plumber I'm used to connecting hoses to things in tight quarters, but this really frustrated me, so be prepared.
 
This valve is not difficult to replace. It is located on pass. side of radiator about half way down. You'll see it has wiring to electric ly open close valve, careful with the connectors they can get brittle.
Also you will loose some coolant if you catch it when you disconnect the hoses.
Can easily beat up your hands switching this unit out so be cautious.
Can this unit cause a small leakage of coolant, after driving some 45 minutes temp guage rises, when I check under area where this unit is located I can see some dripping on ground and lowering of degas bottle
 
I do not know the answer to that. I would suspect it is a sealed unit, but I truly don't know. When I changed mine years ago I just like for liked it with a new one. Reattached the hoses & the wires and all was good.
 
Thx, don't want top seem unknowledgable, but to clarify: the unit itself can leak due to malfunction, or just where hoses are connected.
Well mine has failed. I just drove around with the heater set to 90. Nothing but cold air. There is no coolant loss from the valve or anywhere else. But that is mine. I have not been able to get to it yet to see if it will leak.
 
A leak is not a symptom of no heat or of the opposite, cool air only. These two problems are very common to the failure of the dual control valve.
The valves are electrically controlled by the settings of the cabin temperature control & the cabin temperature sensor. They open & close as necessary to keep the cabin temperature as selected by either the driver or the control on the pasenpass side. Hence, the dual control name.
When the valves failure is open there will always be heat. When the valves failure is closed there will be no cooling or very limited cooling.
Leaks can occur to be sure & coolant will drop over time but there should be heat.
Hope this helps.
 
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Well I broke down and had my local mechanic replace the valve. I purchased the wrong one. The one I got only had a connection for 3 hoses and I needed 5 connections. He was able to be the correct one. I think the one I got was for an 04. If anyone needs it, let me know
 
Is this what you need? https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...teid=0&campid=5338236430&toolid=20008&mkevt=1

Install instructions: (use at own risk, as-is)
1. Place the vehicle on ramps to allow access underneath
2. Remove the black plastic cover under the vehicle
3. Open the radiator drain cock and drain out coolant
4. Remove the plastic cover at the front of the engine bay
5. Remove the top plastic engine cover and air cleaner system
6. Remove the upper radiator hose
7. Remove the hose leading from the coolant control valve to the upper radiator hose, from the upper radiator hose. Swing the upper radiator hose up and back out of the way.
8. Remove the electrical connector from the coolant control valve
9. Remove the LH and RH heater hoses from the valve, allow to drain, then fold back and tuck into
something to hold them out of your way.
10. Remove the bolt holding the coolant control valve to the radiator shroud.
11. Remove the coolant control valve and take to workbench
12. Remove the hose from the valve and place to the new valve in the same orientation
13. Install coolant control valve back into position, reinstall bolt and electrical connector.
14. Reinstall heater hoses.
15. Move upper heater hose back into position, reinstall hose from coolant control valve, then reinstall the upper heater hose and clamp to radiator.
16. Close radiator drain cock and replace bottom plastic cover.
17. Follow fill procedure to refill system with coolant
18. Reinstall air cleaner system and top plastic engine cover

Dual-Coolant-Control-Flow-Valve-diagram.jpgdualcontrolvalve1.jpgdualcontrolvalve2.jpgdualcontrolvalve3.jpgdualcontrolvalve4.jpgdualcontrolvalve5.jpgdualcontrolvalve6.jpg
 
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My 2004 does a strange thing in the winter. When the outside temperature goes below about 50 degrees, that control valve starts to leak onto the garage floor. I can't see actually where it comes from, but it's wet at the bottom of the valve. Drives me crazy. Leaks maybe a pint or so during the winter. System pressure checks at the shop, and no leak? Might be a hose where I can't see the slow leak? I've looked at it many times. Doesn't look easy to change.
 
My 2004 does a strange thing in the winter. When the outside temperature goes below about 50 degrees, that control valve starts to leak onto the garage floor. I can't see actually where it comes from, but it's wet at the bottom of the valve. Drives me crazy. Leaks maybe a pint or so during the winter. System pressure checks at the shop, and no leak? Might be a hose where I can't see the slow leak? I've looked at it many times. Doesn't look easy to change.
Did you ever solve this? Was it the DCV, or was it a leaky coolant recovery (overflow) tank?
 
The coolant recovery bottle is on the driver's side next to the brake fluid and the disk coolant control valve is in the opposite corner. It's up front passenger side held way down the radiator. It would be easy to tell which one is leaking.
 
I changed my DCCV in the hopes it would alleviate my a/c issues, I’m sad to report after breaking my butt for 3 hrs or more it was not the culprit. I plan on bringing RETROBIRD into a Ford shop In Myrtle Beach before summer and have them go over the system. I had the system dye tested twice and recharged, once from my local dealer and then an a/c shop. Gonna try a different dealer.
Wish me luck...
 
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