1963 Pertronix ignition resistance wire

[Cam]

Not sure if I can add my issue to OneAmongOthers post or start a new one so here goes.

While working on the convertible top I left the ignition on and went to lunch. Half an hour later the garage smelled of burning wire. Disconnected the battery and traced the smell to the pink resistance wire. The insulation was burned from the ignition switch to the the plug on the firewall. Luckily no fire.

This car has a Pertonix ignition. While doing research on this issue other 1963 Tbird owners members with Pertronix ignitions indicated that they had disconnected the resistance wire and taped it off.
The wiring diagram shows the engine side of the plug has 2 wires 1st a red-green to + side of the coil and 2nd a brown to the starter relay.

The present resistance wire is a total loss!

Will taping/disconnecting the resistance wire affect the cars operation/performance.

Thank you

Cam

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[Douglemmo]

Not sure if I can add my issue to OneAmongOthers post or start a new one so here goes.

While working on the convertible top I left the ignition on and went to lunch. Half an hour later the garage smelled of burning wire. Disconnected the battery and traced the smell to the pink resistance wire. The insulation was burned from the ignition switch to the the plug on the firewall. Luckily no fire.

This car has a Pertonix ignition. While doing research on this issue other 1963 Tbird owners members with Pertronix ignitions indicated that they had disconnected the resistance wire and taped it off.
The wiring diagram shows the engine side of the plug has 2 wires 1st a red-green to + side of the coil and 2nd a brown to the starter relay.

The present resistance wire is a total loss!

Will taping/disconnecting the resistance wire affect the cars operation/performance.

Thank you

Cam

Hi,
Your resistor wire clearly had current running through it, which tells me that it is in service when your car runs and that it was never disconnected (or bypassed) when the Pertronics module was installed. The other wire bypasses the resistor wire only when you are starting your car. The burnt wire can be replaced with a non resistor wire which will get `12 volts to the Pertronics module. The bigger question is what condition your Pertronics module is in. I would not be surprised to find that it is burnt out.

Good Luck

 

[Cam]

Hi,
Your resistor wire clearly had current running through it, which tells me that it is in service when your car runs and that it was never disconnected (or bypassed) when the Pertronics module was installed. The other wire bypasses the resistor wire only when you are starting your car. The burnt wire can be replaced with a non resistor wire which will get `12 volts to the Pertronics module. The bigger question is what condition your Pertronics module is in. I would not be surprised to find that it is burnt out.

Good Luck

Thank you

Is resistor wire not necessary after Pertronix installation?

Cam

 

[Shadrack]

Thank you

Is resistor wire not necessary after Pertronix installation?

Cam

Correct. The main reason for the wire was to help the points last longer from my understanding. I am the last to give out electrical advice lol - see smoke show in my other posts - but..

From the install instructions.
1. The Ignitor is designed for 12-Volt negative ground systems.
2. Leaving the ignition “ON” with the engine “OFF” for an extended period could result in permanent damage to the Ignitor. (This is the base unit, I believe the better ones do not do this.)
3. See Chart on back page for coil recommendations.
4. Four and six cylinder engines require a minimum of 3.0 ohms of primary resistance and eight cylinder engines require a minimum of 1.5 ohms of primary resistance. Do not remove resistors if the coil primary resistance is less than specified.
5. If your Ignition coil has the recommended primary resistance, remove or bypass all external resistors.

Per some websites:
Ballast Resistor Function
The ignition ballast resistor extends the life of the coil and the points. Too high an amperage can damage the surface of the points and cause failure. The ceramic resistor is sometimes clamped to one of the coil mounting bolts. Make sure it is not cracked, and that the connectors are tight.

There are two leads from the ignition switch to the coil; one for normal running going through the resistor; the other for starting, which bypasses the resistor to provide extra ignition strength. When the ignition key is in the start position, full current is applied to the coil and increases voltage to the spark plugs. Once the engine has started, the coil is fed in the usual way from the ignition switch.

In the event that the ignition is left in the run position, and the points happen to be open, electrical arcs can cause raised spots on the points resulting in a change in dwell timing or an engine that won't run at all.

Test Ballast Resistor
Use an electrical multi-meter to test ballast resistor function. With the wires disconnected, check the resistance between the two terminals of the ballast resistor. Any significant difference from the factory specs would indicate that the ballast resistor is defective.

Resistor Wire Function
Some old cars have a resistive lead from ignition switch to coil instead of a separate resistor. Some cars have, instead, a special high-resistance wire between the ignition switch and the coil to reduce the voltage.

Hope this helps. I will tell you that I did a total bypass - Many of the guys around here will tell you that my car is an electrical mess lol - I have had their help from day 1 to make it right. I completely bypassed the wire by wiring the unit to my secondary fuse panel that I installed for more circuits - switched and constant.

 

[Cam]

Thank you all for your help. Finally got problem resolved. It appears that the resistor wire needs to be replaced by a regular lead. Once I did this everything worked fine and the lead from the ignition did not get hot.

 

[OneAmongOthers]

Thank you all for your help. Finally got problem resolved. It appears that the resistor wire needs to be replaced by a regular lead. Once I did this everything worked fine and the lead from the ignition did not get hot.

Pertronix also offers a power relay which allows you to completely bypass the resistor wire without having to touch it. That’s what I did with my tbird.

 

[Frankie the Fink]

I've put a dozen Pertronix in cars over the years, first off if you have the old Ignitor I it doesn't have the protections of the later versions and you can easily damage things leaving the key on without the engine running. Second, again, depending on what version you have the I or II can be used with or without the ballast resistor in the circuit DEPENDING on the ignition coil selected (instructions are on the web site). The Ingitor III requires 12V and the resistor should be bypassed. So, it always helps to know what version you have and what coil you are using...

The relay kit is for versions II and III to get a full 12V to the module from the battery; I've never had to use one...

 

[64Tbird.Birds3]

Hi Forum,
1964 Tbird 390 FE
I realize this is an older thread but I purchased the Pertronix Igniter II and I pretty much understand the install with one exception - Question Where is this Ballast Resister located??
I hope not under the dash....rats nest of wiring. Have to remove the seat to gain access.

Adding a Petronix Ignitor II to the distributor and while the instructions are clear one thing has me confused, all instructions say to remove the ignition ballast - I can't find it.
Maybe it was removed?
Under the dash? - hope not I have to remove the seat.
I've searched firewall & fenders traced the wires from the distributor no such luck.

Does anyone know where this is at??
I just want to jump it out.