1957 Won't start- starter solenoid | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
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1957 Won't start- starter solenoid

  • Thread starter Thread starter Rogvh
  • Start date Start date
Rogvh
Reaction score
18
Thunderbird Year
1957
From previous posts about my 1957 not being able to start, a friend installed a new starter motor and Bendix. It didn't crank. Turned out all along it was the starter solenoid! I could have driven it all summer! It ran well at idle. Then when putting it in gear there was a knocking sound similar to a rod knock. So I went from originally down in the dumps to a high to back in the dumps. A different friend with better hearing thought it was in the starter area. Turned out the flex plate bolts were hitting the new starter. A little grinding and the sound went away. Now the season is gone around here but ready for next year.

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To test the starter solenoid just short across the two big terminals! Then make sure you have voltage on the S terminal when you turn the key.
 
From previous posts about my 1957 not being able to start, a friend installed a new starter motor and Bendix. It didn't crank. Turned out all along it was the starter solenoid! I could have driven it all summer! It ran well at idle. Then when putting it in gear there was a knocking sound similar to a rod knock. So I went from originally down in the dumps to a high to back in the dumps. A different friend with better hearing thought it was in the starter area. Turned out the flex plate bolts were hitting the new starter. A little grinding and the sound went away. Now the season is gone around here but ready for next year.
About a year ago I bought a TOTALLY chassis that had the same issue. Also found it on a few early 289 ford engines. Starter housing were made by a few different manufacturers. Some housing were a few thousands out of tolerance. I made an EXCELLENT buy on my chassis.
 
I seem to always go for the worst possible too! Sometimes I ignore the simple things, arggggg ‘-} what’s that old saying? KISS. Someday I’ll learn, well maybe not!
 
From previous posts about my 1957 not being able to start, a friend installed a new starter motor and Bendix. It didn't crank. Turned out all along it was the starter solenoid! I could have driven it all summer! It ran well at idle. Then when putting it in gear there was a knocking sound similar to a rod knock. So I went from originally down in the dumps to a high to back in the dumps. A different friend with better hearing thought it was in the starter area. Turned out the flex plate bolts were hitting the new starter. A little grinding and the sound went away. Now the season is gone around here but ready for next year.
That happened to me. I can't remember why I pulled the starter but the mounting flange was cracked. Took it to a reliable rebuilder but after the mounting flange was hitting the flywheel. He replaced the mounting flange once he could see where the flex plate bolts were hitting. Who would have known there were different mounts? A lot of people who drive to shows and conventions keep a solenoid in the trunk as it seems they are prone to fail at the least opportune moment.
 
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That happened to me. I can't remember why I pulled the starter but the mounting flange was cracked. Took it to a reliable rebuilder but after the mounting flange was hitting the flywheel. He replaced the mounting flange once he could see where the flex plate bolts were hitting. Who would have known there were different mounts? A lot of people who drive to shows and conventions keep a solenoid in the trunk as it seems they are prone to fail at the least opportune moment.
I think the bad solenoid was original or an old replacement as the bakelite was redish. When we realized it was the problem I installed a cheap Standard solenoid just to get it running. I then replaced it with a Motorcraft and put the Standard in the trunk. I would have thought all starter flanges would be the same dimension but I suppose anything goes today.
 
A spare starter solenoid is a must for these old birds
Doesn’t take up much room in the trunk.
 
Why can’t you just short across the terminals? As long as there is voltage from the “i” terminal to the coil?
 
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