1957 Radiator

[Steve S.]

My radiator has a leak. I want to just get a new one. Have seen several different ones from original, heavy duty, high efficiency, optima and aluminum. I live in Texas. She hasn't over heated but previous owner of 20 years said she did and he put a better fan and newer shroud on. She does have a/c. An suggestions on the best one to get? Thanks

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[Birdman57]

My radiator has a leak. I want to just get a new one. Have seen several different ones from original, heavy duty, high efficiency, optima and aluminum. I live in Texas. She hasn't over heated but previous owner of 20 years said she did and he put a better fan and newer shroud on. She does have a/c. An suggestions on the best one to get? Thanks

A aluminum and an electric in front will do the trick,change thermostat my bird runs at 180 degrees (nice and cool)

 

[CSPIDY]

X2 on the aluminum rad
You can get one that is identical to the original
More effective cooling
At half the price of an original

 

[55blacktie]

An aluminum radiator is cheaper than copper & brass. However, unlike copper and brass, they cannot be repaired if they spring a leak. I bought a US Radiator 4-row copper & brass radiator, hoping that it will last as long as I will.

When I inherited my 55, it still had the original radiator. Although it didn't leak, you could look into the filler neck and see that the core was rotten. The cost to re-core it would have been almost as much as a new radiator (more than aluminum). I kept the old one, thinking that someone might want the upper tank for its date code (Dec, 54). My car was assembled 1-20-55.

 

[Ward 57]

An aluminum radiator is cheaper than copper & brass. However, unlike copper and brass, they cannot be repaired if they spring a leak. I bought a US Radiator 4-row copper & brass radiator, hoping that it will last as long as I will.

When I inherited my 55, it still had the original radiator. Although it didn't leak, you could look into the filler neck and see that the core was rotten. The cost to re-core it would have been almost as much as a new radiator (more than aluminum). I kept the old one, thinking that someone might want the upper tank for its date code (Dec, 54). My car was assembled 1-20-55.

So you are saying your new copper & brass was more than an aluminum one but just a little more than re-coring your original? What was the price difference? Mine still looks clean so won't be fussing with it. Did it turn out to more efficient? I prefer the original materials. Good call to keep the original. Somebody's junk is always somebody else's gold.

 

[jimntempe]

If you switch to aluminum radiator you shave about 200 pounds of weight off the car. Well, maybe not that much but there is a big difference in weight.

 

[Birdman57]

If you’re not concerned about keeping the car completely original aluminum is the way to go no and yes or butts

 

[55blacktie]

Steve, my copper & brass radiator, although purchased some time ago, is still in the box. The restoration is taking much longer than I anticipated. There have been more important family matters along the way, I'm not getting any younger, and sometimes I just lack motivation. If it's too hot, too cold, or too wet, I won't be in the garage.

When I bought the radiator, I wanted the best. I was willing to buy the "Optima" 4-row, but Larry's recommended the "high-Efficiency" 4-row, which cost less; that's what I have.

Price, today? $619.95. Concours often has 10%-off sales (no tax, unless you live in NV), which should cover shipping. Cost to re-core? Check with a competent radiator shop.

By the way, the Tbirds left the factory with a 3-row radiator.

People often recommend what they have but seldom otherwise.

 

[doug7740]

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue