1955 overheating in traffic summertime

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The gauge itself may be off.
 
Did you also install the modified spacer behind the water pump? Its purpose is to improve the almost non-existent water flow at idle.
 
If your running 160 to 180 by actual measurement, then a high reading on the gauge means the gauge is off.
 
Couple things....boil out your radiator.
I also own a old Triumph and California summers are hell to that car. Solved issue by putting electric fan w a manual switch behind radiator. The Bird....changed to 5 blade fan .. Solved lots of issues.
 
I did everything brand new oversized triple core radiator modified water pump spacer, high output water pump, largemouth 160° thermostat, you have to trim the tube on top of the thermostat housing, six blade fan, flushed engine three times, all new hoses especially bottom holes with the spring inside, she runs about 60% on the highway but still in traffic she’ll get up to close to the H so it did improve somewhat. I read somewhere where rust behind the water jackets on the cylinders, I think it said cylinder three not sure, causes restriction. Without the modified spacer with the ramp there’s no water circulation under about 800 RPMs I think it was. If you put the new spacer in with the ramp make sure to grind down all of the casting sledge around the hole openings.
Next step and then electric fan which I hate to do because I wanted to keep it stock but you have to do what you have to do!
 
Is your new radiator aluminum?
I was told by the resteration technician at CASCO that this would have the most significant improvement in the cooling system.
I’m using one and my car runs too cool in the spring and fall. Below 70 degrees
Also, they make a smaller water pump pulley.
 
No, custom triple core from Boise radiator.
Might try smaller pulley.
 
There are many band-aids one can apply to have a cooler running engine. I find most complaints come from owners that have not attended to the basics of efficient operation. My '57 C code operates at continuous 70 to 75 m.p.h. speed in the 190 to 195 degree range. I don't have a fancy water pump, nor a "improved water pump, nor a huge aluminum radiator (mine is off the shelf oem style replacement that I can have repaired if need be which is not likely repairable with an aluminum radiator), or even a redesigned spacer. Before you delve into other "fixes" I suggest you get all things correct in your engine. some things are not easy like excess rust in the water jackets that impede temperature transfer. Most are simply good old fashioned maintenance issues. Timing by vacuum versus timing light, functioning vacuum advance, passenger side warm up valve in the exhaust at the junction of the manifold and the attached exhaust pipe., correct spark plug range tailored to your engine's needs and condition. changing to a multi-bladed fan (mine is from a Lincoln), Is your fan drawing air though the radiator or are there portions of the shroud that are not being covered for full air pulling through the radiator. I wish all of you well. If you make multiple changes at the same time you will never really know what was the one that improved your situation the most.
 
You have maximum air flow through the radiator at a continuous 70-75 mph. Overheating usually occurs in stop-and-go traffic, at low rpm, when you have little/no air flow through the radiator and little coolant circulation.
 
jack-in-sac said:
There are many band-aids one can apply to have a cooler running engine. I find most complaints come from owners that have not attended to the basics of efficient operation. My '57 C code operates at continuous 70 to 75 m.p.h. speed in the 190 to 195 degree range. I don't have a fancy water pump, nor a "improved water pump, nor a huge aluminum radiator (mine is off the shelf oem style replacement that I can have repaired if need be which is not likely repairable with an aluminum radiator), or even a redesigned spacer. Before you delve into other "fixes" I suggest you get all things correct in your engine. some things are not easy like excess rust in the water jackets that impede temperature transfer. Most are simply good old fashioned maintenance issues. Timing by vacuum versus timing light, functioning vacuum advance, passenger side warm up valve in the exhaust at the junction of the manifold and the attached exhaust pipe., correct spark plug range tailored to your engine's needs and condition. changing to a multi-bladed fan (mine is from a Lincoln), Is your fan drawing air though the radiator or are there portions of the shroud that are not being covered for full air pulling through the radiator. I wish all of you well. If you make multiple changes at the same time you will never really know what was the one that improved your situation the most.
Click to expand...
Is your bird a standard or automatic?
Make a difference
The standard transmission didn’t have the overheating issues the automatic does
If an automatic
How does your bird do when sitting at a long red light after you have been driving 70 mph on a 90+ degree day
 
Airflow at 70mph is enough to run at 50%-60% on the gauge for sure. Idle on hot days is the problem. A complete Fan shroud is a must with a new top rubber gap cover. Most problems I’ve read about is water flow at low rpm’s. The spacer directs the flow up a ramp to the inlet without turbulence caused by the casting flag( or whatever you call it) on the cast ford spacer they used (poor castings).
I’m going to try the smaller fan pully. Question: is there enough adjustment on the generator or do you need a smaller belt? If so, can you supply a part number?
Thanks
 
It's the casting flash in the timing cover that is often overlooked. Talk to Chris Ames (Paragon Industries), inventor and patent holder of the replacement WP spacer.
 
zeroroadkill said:
I’m going to try the smaller fan pully. Question: is there enough adjustment on the generator or do you need a smaller belt? If so, can you supply a part number?
Thanks
Click to expand...
You will need a smaller belt
I’m running an AC compressor as well as an alternator
 
zeroroadkill said:
Airflow at 70mph is enough to run at 50%-60% on the gauge for sure. Idle on hot days is the problem. A complete Fan shroud is a must with a new top rubber gap cover. Most problems I’ve read about is water flow at low rpm’s. The spacer directs the flow up a ramp to the inlet without turbulence caused by the casting flag( or whatever you call it) on the cast ford spacer they used (poor castings).
I’m going to try the smaller fan pully. Question: is there enough adjustment on the generator or do you need a smaller belt? If so, can you supply a part number?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Good question re: smaller belt. Sellers of smaller pulley make no mention of a smaller belt. I don't think you can compare yours to a car/w A/C and alternator.
 
What size pulley is recommended from stock?
 
I used the 1 inch smaller one that CASCO sells
8509S
I needed to use a smaller belt
Took my belt to Napa store, they had a nice selection and would allow me to return it for another if it didn’t work.
 
CSPIDY said:
Is your bird a standard or automatic?
Make a difference
The standard transmission didn’t have the overheating issues the automatic does
If an automatic
How does your bird do when sitting at a long red light after you have been driving 70 mph on a 90+ degree day
Click to expand...
It is a 3 now with O.D.. Sits fine in traffic. The only time I may have a minor problem is climbing a long grade with the AC on. if I turrn the AC off then all is well again.
 
Not sure that this would help but I did read a post about checking the gauge with a 3 volt battery to insure it is reading properly but right now I don’t remember where it is. I believe it was posted by @doug7740 …I read way too much and now it’s gotten a bit confusing :)
 
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