1957 312 NPD lower radiator hose installation

[Rogvh]

Has anyone recently installed a NPD lower radiator hose? I can't get it to slip on the engine. It appears to be about 1/8" smaller on diameter than the old one. With the PS bracketry in the way, it makes it harder yet. Have not gotten to a point to know whether the radiator end will fit. Contour seems right but length looks a little long. It's not a continous diameter like what I took off. NPD's upper hose slipped right on.

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[jack-in-sac]

The lower radiator hose is often a problem to install. There is not a lot of room and not easy to tighten the clamp on the water pump. I suggest a couple of helps. 1. smooth a little grease on the inside of the hose and get one edge of the hose on and turn it round until I work it all the way on. Some people do not like this method but I have had success with many radiator hose installs doing this. 2. put the end of the hose in hot water to soften the hose end allowing it to push on in an easier manner as the softened hose is more pliable. I keep a spare set of hoses and belts in the trunk. Good luck to you, don't fall as;eepe under the car even if it is nap time.

 

[Ward 57]

That lower hose is a pain. been there done that. I replaced mine because I thought it was leaking after replacing my water pump. Once I got it off there was no problem other than poor installation after replacing my pump. ( my fault ) The old hose looks bigger because it has set to memory. My final solution ( thanks to advice from here ) was to really get it hot in a bucket of hot water to make it more flexible. Grease the receiving parts with water soluble lube and when you pull the hose out of the hot water, lube the inside of the hose with same and work fast. Don't forget to loosely put the clamps on first. Oh make sure you orient the clamping screw so you can actually get to it to tighten. ( another learning experience ) My mistake was to not get the hose fully over the 'hip' on the radiator outlet and the clamp was on crooked over the hip and not behind it. As referenced above, I removed the fan shroud and fan to give me more room to get to the clamp on the water pump.

 

[Rogvh]

I'll try those suggestions jack & Ward. Was about ready to order from CASCO thinking NPD's may not be made correctly. Did either of you use a NPD hose or have to cut it down shorter?

 

[1957Bird]

Used an NPD hose.
had no trouble getting it on to the pump, only problem I found was the bottom from the bend to the radiator was too long. When installed the hose was against the lower control arm bolt so I just shortened it by about 3/4” and reinstalled, giving about 1/2” clearance with the bolt.
I’ve used the pan of boiling water trick numerous times.
good luck.

 

[Ward 57]

I think most of the hoses come from the same place, especially if it has the official Ford, markings. I had to twist mine a little bit to pass the control arm & power steering hoses.

 

[jack-in-sac]

One more little thing.
When I am trying to slip the hose on I use a cotter key puller to help the hose over the water pump inlet. Never a screwdriver, the cotter puller has a nice bend and is not a sharp.

 

[Rogvh]

My hoses are not marked Ford. The diameter reduces at a few inches from either end. The NAPA I removed was continuously the same diameter. With hot water and liquid soap for a lubricant I got the upper slipped on. After my "upper body workout" as someone said, I couldn't get the bottom flexed and over the radiator pipe. So as mentioned above, cutting 3/4" off might work though it seems I now need all of the original length to allow for clamp width. Can't tell at this point if it will touch the control arm bolt. While the hose has two bends, the lower bend looks too mild to angle correctly to the radiator pipe. If I get it on I would think it would twist/strain the rubber though the spring would prevent collapse. BTW, while I have two different style cotter key pullers, I do have the tool specific to radiator hoses. Tomorrow I hope my rested strength will allow getting the bottom of the hose on. If I had to do this for a living, I would starve. lol

 

[Ward 57]

My hoses are not marked Ford. The diameter reduces at a few inches from either end. The NAPA I removed was continuously the same diameter. With hot water and liquid soap for a lubricant I got the upper slipped on. After my "upper body workout" as someone said, I couldn't get the bottom flexed and over the radiator pipe. So as mentioned above, cutting 3/4" off might work though it seems I now need all of the original length to allow for clamp width. Can't tell at this point if it will touch the control arm bolt. While the hose has two bends, the lower bend looks too mild to angle correctly to the radiator pipe. If I get it on I would think it would twist/strain the rubber though the spring would prevent collapse. BTW, while I have two different style cotter key pullers, I do have the tool specific to radiator hoses. Tomorrow I hope my rested strength will allow getting the bottom of the hose on. If I had to do this for a living, I would starve. lol

You've got it right. Yah, it can be exhausting, you can't get the leverage when it's on jack stands instead on a lift that goes up at least 5'. But who's more stubborn, you or the hose?

 

[Rogvh]

It's on a lift but I'm likely weaker than most. Probably it's a draw on who/which is more stubborn! While the hose is stronger than me, I did get it on the bottom after cutting it shorter by 1/4" twice. It's not close to anything. The back story is I don't know if I have the upper body strength to remove the starter. Last year when I went to start it, the bendix appeared to jam on the ring gear. So, the T-bird became my winter project. The engine bay looked bad after 30+ years. That caused replacing rubber, cleaning, removing some parts for re-paint, paint the engine, and trying to improve incorrect parts. Well, now it's driving season and I have not gotten to the starter yet............

 

[Ward 57]

It's on a lift but I'm likely weaker than most. Probably it's a draw on who/which is more stubborn! While the hose is stronger than me, I did get it on the bottom after cutting it shorter by 1/4" twice. It's not close to anything. The back story is I don't know if I have the upper body strength to remove the starter. Last year when I went to start it, the bendix appeared to jam on the ring gear. So, the T-bird became my winter project. The engine bay looked bad after 30+ years. That caused replacing rubber, cleaning, removing some parts for re-paint, paint the engine, and trying to improve incorrect parts. Well, now it's driving season and I have not gotten to the starter yet............

If you had the upper body strength to wrestle that hose on you should have no problem with the starter. I think it weighs 6-8 lbs. If it's on a lift you should have no problem holding it up as you remove the last bolt. As with anything with weight always remove the uppermost fastener last and install first.