1955 T-Bird 292 Intake manifold thermostat housing crack | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
  • We're glad you found us via a search engine! Right now, you can join our club absolutely free and unlock member only features like the site search! This notice only appears once! It only takes 30 seconds to register, and we would love to have you as part of the World's largest Thunderbird Forum/Club! Click here to continue

  • Click here to remove google ads from the site
  • Click " Like/Thanks" at the bottom of a member's post to reward and thank them for their response! Points are added to their profile.
  • Get rid of swirls and minor paint surface scratches with this Polish & Compounds kit. Click here to read more!.

1955 T-Bird 292 Intake manifold thermostat housing crack

  • Thread starter Thread starter zeroroadkill
  • Start date Start date
zeroroadkill

zeroroadkill

BlackBird Fly
Reaction score
130
Thunderbird Year
1955
I decided to change out the thermostat to the 170° wide opening thermostat. I found that one of the thermostat housing bolt wasn't too tight but didn't give it much thought because the previous owner had replaced the 180° thermostat with a 160° thermostat not too long ago. When I tried to torque the bolts per the manual I noticed now wouldn't tighten up, this is not good I thought, then I noticed a piece of the manifold pop off!!!😳 See picture.

The original bolts are 7/8" long so I bought two 1" bolts hoping that the remaining threads in the manifold will hold tight.
My question is: since this bolt hole backups up the intake port for cylinder #5 would it be possible to utilize the wall material to create a few more threads by drilling through the intake wall, tapping and install a measured bolt for the thermostat housing that would stop flush with the inside of the intake so as not to interfere with airflow?

I thought of welding it but this is sketchy because cracks can be formed and water leaks would be critical in the manifold. The only other option is to replace the manifold...🙁

Thoughts???

Thanks
Bob
thermostat.jpg

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Model year added to subject.
12604_e634d8db2ff8947fb9e1cd6c7ad78a23.jpg

I inserted your image into your post. Here's a howto for reference-
 
Last edited:
If replacing the intake manifold is truly your only option, then what have you got to lose. You might look into a helicoil although that would require a larger hole. Perhaps filling the hole with something like JB Weld then drilling and tapping the new hole. At any rate good luck to you.
 
If the longer bolt doesn’t work this was going to be the next step.
Thanks
 
I decided to change out the thermostat to the 170° wide opening thermostat. I found that one of the thermostat housing bolt wasn't too tight but didn't give it much thought because the previous owner had replaced the 180° thermostat with a 160° thermostat not too long ago. When I tried to torque the bolts per the manual I noticed now wouldn't tighten up, this is not good I thought, then I noticed a piece of the manifold pop off!!!😳 See picture.

The original bolts are 7/8" long so I bought two 1" bolts hoping that the remaining threads in the manifold will hold tight.
My question is: since this bolt hole backups up the intake port for cylinder #5 would it be possible to utilize the wall material to create a few more threads by drilling through the intake wall, tapping and install a measured bolt for the thermostat housing that would stop flush with the inside of the intake so as not to interfere with airflow?

I thought of welding it but this is sketchy because cracks can be formed and water leaks would be critical in the manifold. The only other option is to replace the manifold...🙁

Thoughts???

Thanks
Bob
View attachment 13541
Replacing it is the only option. If you can’t find one, or care about originality you can go with an edlebrock or other aftermarket.
 
I know. Hate to modify it tho. If that’s my only option then I’m replacing the carburetor and replacing the distributor with something more modern then and the air cleaner😳 I hope it doesn’t come down to that I like it being original. I found two on eBay but no response yet $300 and a NOS one for $675😱
 
I know. Hate to modify it tho. If that’s my only option then I’m replacing the carburetor and replacing the distributor with something more modern then and the air cleaner😳 I hope it doesn’t come down to that I like it being original. I found two on eBay but no response yet $300 and a NOS one for $675😱
Does anyone know what the stamp 56Q means below the manifold model number? The replacement is a 54E.
9DD86AAA-7081-4836-B7AF-0223AC2EFA36.jpeg
59B85831-F023-4AC0-A1C3-8C6E976E3ED1.png
 
I had that hate to modify thought for a while, then realized my car would never be a perfect specimen. The new carb and distributor were a huge improvement, no regrets. Now I'm cutting loose and installing disc brakes.
What did you do about the tach? It’s cable drive.
 
Back
Top