Will Not Start - 1968 | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
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Will Not Start - 1968

  • Thread starter Thread starter BenBlevins
  • Start date Start date
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Thunderbird Year
1968
Presently have a 1968 Ford Thunderbird that has put me at my wits end trying to get it to start.

Whenever attempting to start it the only noise is a single click coming from the trunk, likely a relay, but haven’t located the precise location yet.

I’ve installed a new starter, solenoid, and battery to no avail.

Prior to being gifted the engine received a tune up recently and ran fine. The battery had died after the tune up but did jump successfully. This was all a few weeks prior to receiving the vehicle as a gift.

At this point I’m at a loss as to what could be the issue. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

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The single click is probably your starter solenoid,located on the right front inner fender. You have a dead battery or a very bad battery cable connection. Check the ground cable at the block. Generally on the lower right front of the block.good luck!
 
Did you figure anything out yet? My 67 had a bad neutral safety switch and was doing the same thing. Try holding up on the gearshift while trying to start it or try starting it in neutral. If it starts it's a bad neutral safety switch and is attached to the bottom or side of your steering column
 
Thanks Devil Dog this was 100% the neutral safety switch. Now to attempt to locate it along the steering column. I actually gave it a look before but couldn’t locate it. I’ll give it another go. Still not starting but at least now it’s cranking like it is supposed to.
 
These fords also came with Bassast resistors that help with the spark between the points and coil. If it's bad the car won't start either just turn over like no spark. They have them at autozone. Take off the breather and make sure you're getting gas when your hit the throttle. Make sure the butterfly on the choke slaps shut first time you pump it or it won't prime up the carburetor with gas. If it doesn't slap shut unscrew the 3 little screws on the round black plastic choke adjuster. With the throttle held open adjust the choke until it closes and stop turning and tighten the screws when it does. The choke will open and adjust as the engine warms up. It will be on fast idle when it first starts. Leave it go for 4-5 minutes then tap the throttle to take it off high idle. The choke should be opening at this point. If at first you can't see gas squirting in the carburetor pour just a lil bit of gas in it to prime it. You might have to repeat this until the carb is primed
 
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These fords also came with Bassast resistors that help with the spark between the points and coil. If it's bad the car won't start either just turn over like no spark. They have them at autozone. Take off the breather and make sure you're getting gas when your hit the throttle. Make sure the butterfly on the choke slaps shut first time you pump it or it won't prime up the carburetor with gas. If it doesn't slap shut unscrew the 3 little screws on the round black plastic choke adjuster. With the throttle held open adjust the choke until it closes and stop turning and tighten the screws when it does. The choke will open and adjust as the engine warms up. It will be on fast idle when it first starts. Leave it go for 4-5 minutes then tap the throttle to take it off high idle. The choke should be opening at this point. If at first you can't see gas squirting in the carburetor pour just a lil bit of gas in it to prime it. You might have to repeat this until the carb is primed
If he has the original carburetor I don't believe it has the electric choke.
 
Finally got some time to work on this more this weekend. Im not the most mechanically inclined but based on what I’ve seen I’m assuming this is the part in question?B2B5E08F-CB3C-4CAA-B7F6-8EFA6F340708.jpeg
 
looks like it. It just has a plastic cover on it. Should see a pretty good picture of it in the video I posted
 
These fords also came with Bassast resistors that help with the spark between the points and coil. If it's bad the car won't start either just turn over like no spark. They have them at autozone. Take off the breather and make sure you're getting gas when your hit the throttle. Make sure the butterfly on the choke slaps shut first time you pump it or it won't prime up the carburetor with gas. If it doesn't slap shut unscrew the 3 little screws on the round black plastic choke adjuster. With the throttle held open adjust the choke until it closes and stop turning and tighten the screws when it does. The choke will open and adjust as the engine warms up. It will be on fast idle when it first starts. Leave it go for 4-5 minutes then tap the throttle to take it off high idle. The choke should be opening at this point. If at first you can't see gas squirting in the carburetor pour just a lil bit of gas in it to prime it. You might have to repeat this until the carb is primed
I had a similar issue with my 67 years ago. I spent the money for a dura spark electronic ignition and distributor for a 78 pick up. What an improvement over the points ignition. My car has the 390 and the change over hasn't let me down in over 20 years!
 
Presently have a 1968 Ford Thunderbird that has put me at my wits end trying to get it to start.

Whenever attempting to start it the only noise is a single click coming from the trunk, likely a relay, but haven’t located the precise location yet.

I’ve installed a new starter, solenoid, and battery to no avail.

Prior to being gifted the engine received a tune up recently and ran fine. The battery had died after the tune up but did jump successfully. This was all a few weeks prior to receiving the vehicle as a gift.

At this point I’m at a loss as to what could be the issue. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
I know this is an older thread but I had the same issue, and it was the Safety Neutral Switch. I just pressed the gear shift tighter into the Park position, and it fired right up.
 
I know this is an older thread but I had the same issue, and it was the Safety Neutral Switch. I just pressed the gear shift tighter into the Park position, and it fired right up.
It should also start in neutral. Just make sure you put it in park before getting out of the vehicle. LOL Don't want it rolling away
 
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