I cannot reset my anti-theft alarm. 2004 Tbird | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
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I cannot reset my anti-theft alarm. 2004 Tbird

  • Thread starter Thread starter Aznav
  • Start date Start date
Aznav
Reaction score
63
Thunderbird Year
2004
In addition, car alarm goes off every time I turn the key. I think (think) I fixed that. I also have a kill switch but it has never been a problem. At a loss. No fuel in carb so could be kill switch. Crazy

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One time a girl at work couldn't get her car started. It would turn over with no problem but not run. The consensus among the guys was the fuel pump was bad but nobody wanted to change it out for her. She had it towed to the local mechanic. He asked her if she had another key. She did have a second key and the car started with the second key. Apparently the RFID chip had fallen out of the first key and it would allow the car to turn over but not run. He didn't charge her... I don't know if the T-bird has an RFID chip in the key. I think that it probably does because I had a 2000 Mercury Cougar and it had that key technology.

That might also explain the alarm problem.
 
My previous post of two days ago talked about a dead battery. I have discovered the battery is not the problem. Here is the follow on. After I recharged my battery, the alarm went off EVERY time I opened the door or turned the key. I have spent the better part of a day trying to reset my OEM anti-theft device on my Tbird. I have combed this forum as well as Google and I think I've done everything but tow it to the dealer. Groan.

I will say that whatever else I have done, the alarm no longer goes off every time. Also, the little red alarm dash light would not blink on and off indicating triggering.

So far: I am almost positive that when anti theft is triggered it cuts the fuel pump off and that is exactly what it sounds like. Starter turns over, no gas. When I first tried it would come on three or four seconds and then quit, like there was already gas in the carb.

- Changed fob battery
- Locked unlocked manually.
- Unhooked battery for x number of seconds and turned back on.
- Tried to find anti-theft fuse. One guy said he solved the problem by pulling fuse out and back in.I am not even sure they have one and mechanic's manual did not mention one. However, there are two modules, one under center dash and one upper left of leg. Good luck on getting them out. Doubt it matters because they are not fuses.
- One guy said everything was solved when he flipped a "switch" under the dashboard. Free beer to anyone that can tell me where that is.
- The last is to tow it to a dealer. The car only has 23K miles on it. Until I drained the battery I did not have any trouble like this. None.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Gads - there are NO carbs on our retro Thunderbirds -
I think carbs were discontinued on mainstream cars in the mid-80s...

As with most of these rash of recent problems; its imperative that you try to get an OBDC diagnostic code scan...

I am unaware of any secret "switch" under the dash that would address this problem....there is an "inertia" switch behind the driver's left kick panel as protection after a rollover crash...which cuts off the fuel pump.

You might try disconnecting the battery for minutes (not just seconds) - like maybe 20 minutes and then reconnecting it...
The PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System) has tentacles into many places in the car.

My dealer will run a diagnostic for about $129 that will point me to the problem area for many issues -- and I take it from there to make the repair... Sometimes that's the "best of the worst" choices to narrow down the problem.
 
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I read this earlier today and thought - how strange. As luck would have it, this is happening to me now. My alarm is going off and my battery is dead. Not sure what to do...
 
No. Regular speed. Although when I went back one time, the alarm went off when I opened the door. My mechanic is coming by. Pretty sure it's the battery as I looked when it was replaced last - 6 years ago. My first T-bird had one battery that lasted almost 8 years.
 
It's normal for the alarm to sound when the battery runs low on these cars. Low voltage messes with the computers. Charge the battery and if the alarm sounds, push the buttons on the remote. This tells the computer that your the guy with the key. Sometimes the bracket for the trunk light switch gets bent, keeping the light on, and the computer thinks the trunk is open. Something to check. Did you try your second key?? The chips in keys rarely fail and the computers rarely forget a programmed key, but anything is possible. Also fresh remote batteries. I'm all for 'Free Beer' but unless a previous owner installed the 'secret kill switch' then the there isn't anything the factory put on....unless like Frankie said, the fuel pump cut off, it's under the dash, check the manual.
 
I did try the second key - same thing. I'm fairly sure it's the battery - slow to turn over this morning and I had a feeling. My 2002 did not have the alarm go off when the battery was dead.
 
You are getting some good advice here - for some reason these cars are the most prone to weird issues with low battery voltage than any other I've owned. You can check the trunk and glove box lights by putting your smartphone on video record and sticking it in those areas and opening/closing the doors. A review of the video should show the light going out.

When you disconnect the battery there are procedures you should do (in the owner's manual) to allow the car to "relearn" its fuel trim and transmission shift points and often the "short drop" side windows need re-calibrated...
 
It's normal for the alarm to sound when the battery runs low on these cars. Low voltage messes with the computers. Charge the battery and if the alarm sounds, push the buttons on the remote. This tells the computer that your the guy with the key. Sometimes the bracket for the trunk light switch gets bent, keeping the light on, and the computer thinks the trunk is open. Something to check. Did you try your second key?? The chips in keys rarely fail and the computers rarely forget a programmed key, but anything is possible. Also fresh remote batteries. I'm all for 'Free Beer' but unless a previous owner installed the 'secret kill switch' then the there isn't anything the factory put on....unless like Frankie said, the fuel pump cut off, it's under the dash, check the manual.
 
Gads - there are NO carbs on our retro Thunderbirds -
I think carbs were discontinued on mainstream cars in the mid-80s...

As with most of these rash of recent problems; its imperative that you try to get an OBDC diagnostic code scan...

I am unaware of any secret "switch" under the dash that would address this problem....there is an "inertia" switch behind the driver's left kick panel as protection after a rollover crash...which cuts off the fuel pump.

You might try disconnecting the battery for minutes (not just seconds) - like maybe 20 minutes and then reconnecting it...
The PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System) has tentacles into many places in the car.

My dealer will run a diagnostic for about $129 that will point me to the problem area for many issues -- and I take it from there to make the repair... Sometimes that's the "best of the worst" choices to narrow down the problem.


I am going to try what other members have suggested and then, yes, off to the dealer. Thank you!!!
 
One time a girl at work couldn't get her car started. It would turn over with no problem but not run. The consensus among the guys was the fuel pump was bad but nobody wanted to change it out for her. She had it towed to the local mechanic. He asked her if she had another key. She did have a second key and the car started with the second key. Apparently the RFID chip had fallen out of the first key and it would allow the car to turn over but not run. He didn't charge her... I don't know if the T-bird has an RFID chip in the key. I think that it probably does because I had a 2000 Mercury Cougar and it had that key technology.

That might also explain the alarm problem.

Thank you and I will try this this morning!!
 
GOT IT, FINALLY!! THANKS TO ALL!!!!
So, I took every single post and walked through them, doing every thing they said. Nothing. Then (and I did this several times before) I flipped my kill switch on and off. BABOOM! Keep in mind, as I said, that was one of the first things I did - several times with other suggestions. However, when I did the whole nine yards (posts) like changing fob battery, removing cables for twenty minutes, turning key in door slowly left and right two times, put a new 5 amp fuse in, punched the fob several times, lock/unlock, then as a very last option flipped the kill switch on and off. Dancing all around my garage...keep in mind I'm 71. THIS FORUM IS THE BOMB!!!
 
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Good for you - get rid of that kill switch IMO; they are just another point of failure....
Somebody with a rollback can snatch your car even if it doesn't run faster than you can gobble down a Big Mac...
Carry good insurance and don't worry about it...
 
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