Electrical and wiper issues 65'

[Kristian]

Hi everybody. I'm restoring a 65', got most of the engine work done a few weeks ago. The body looks good, but i need to restore the 65' look (previous owner wanted it to lool like a 64).

So, the headlights, tail lights and parking lights are working, and the interior off/on light. But the list of things that's not working is longer. All but one of the gauges (battery amp), turn indicators both front and back, interior fan, back up lights and interior lights are not working. Anyone got a good picture of the fuse box and circuit breakers?

The wipers only seem to go down towards the hood of the car (have not looked deeper in to that yet).

Also, the kickdown lever is not attached to the new manual choke Edelbrock carb. It it a must to have, will i burn up the transmission if i don't attach it?

Sorry for the long thread, new to Tbirds, looking forward for the ride!

 

[Angry Bird]

I would purchase a shop manual if I were you. Readily available online through eBay or similar supplier of classic Ford parts and materials.

You will need it as long as you own the car.

Good luck.

Gord

 

[Dj-Dan]

I have an extra 66 T-bird Shop Manual if you are intrested?

 

[Angry Bird]

I have been thinking about your problem with the guages and although I went through this 16 years ago I recall that I had the same problem. As I recall the guages run on 2 ohms and there is a small regulator under the dashboard which reduces the voltage up near the firewall near midships. I recall that is why the guages were inoperative, its quite small and difficult to find. Again, the part is available.

As for the backup lights check out the ground lead the usual culprit. The wipers are hydraulic and are fed by the power steering pump, check the hoses they sometimes deteriote interiorly causing a blockage.

Again I am going from recall but hopefully it gives you a clue or two. All the best.

Gord

 

[Ford5of5]

The gauge component that Angry Bird refers to is called a Constant Voltage Regulator. It takes in 12v and spits out 6. If its origional, apply 12v and you should see a varying output of 0-5v; some digital volt meters may not work, mine did. If it's a new solid state model you'll see a steady output of about 6v, mine puts out just under 6v. I've seen NOS CVR's and there is a solid state option for sale at the usual suspects. Sometimes when a CVR fails it will send 12v to the 3 gauges and may burn them out. I forget which gauge it was, but I had to re-solder a wire. It's a bit of a pain because it's very fine wire.

X2 on checking those grounds. Also check for solder joints and bullet connectors that have deteriorated. I've had multiple failures of both on my '66. I just finished rewiring the windows and my next amazing trick will be to rewire the gauges.

 

[Kristian]

Appreciate all the help guys!

Got another quick question, is the gear shifter supposed to be very firm? Mine is not, and i have to hold it up in Reverse, or else it falls down in neutral. It stays in park and drive. Is it any way to fasten it to make it "firmer"?

I've bought myself a digital shop manual and read alot!

The wiper issue was really no issue at all, the last owner has done ALOT of bad work on this car.

I've found multiple places where there is no ground, because of the "recently" done paintjob and anti rust. All of the exterior lights are in working condition when connected to the battery. I've started to search through the whole wire system for faults, finding alot of bad connections. It's getting there! Slow and steady.

(Next step for the electrical is checking all the relays, regulators and buttons)

Finishing up the break system tomorrow, so i can get back to fixing the electrical issues.

Takes some time to get parts here in Norway, especially when most pars are in inch not metric wich is standard here.

Again, thanks alot!

- Kristian

 

[Ford5of5]

The shifter detent plate is probably worn. In the steering column there is a plate with a bunch of notches. Those notches hold the shifter in gear and they wear out over the years. You could probably add some weld to it and file them back but it would be easier to just get a new one.

Once you get acquainted with the wire diagrams for your car things will be easy to fix.

I don't know how far you want to get into a tear down but with the dash board out you can literally solve every problem these cars have fairly easily. I've replaced all the heat and a/c vacuum pods and vac hoses with the dash in place, it was hell.

I removed well, I talked my brother into removing the dash to make it easier to swap out a windshield gasket. It helped quite a bit with rewiring windows, horn and adding a ground bus. While I'm in there I will rewire the gauges and a/c switch. The ignition and lights are the only things I haven't had an issue with. LOL!