2004 Kenwood DNR1007XR Installation | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
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2004 Kenwood DNR1007XR Installation

  • Thread starter Thread starter intensifi
  • Start date Start date
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Reaction score
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Thunderbird Year
2004
I acquired:

1 Kenwood DNR1007XR
1 iDatalink/Maestro SW (ADS-MSW) steering wheel control adapter
2 Kenwood CMOS-740HD cameras (MUST use REAR and FRONT/DASHCAM leads on headunit)
1 SiriusXM adapter (SXV300)
2 Metra harnesses (70-5521 [only works for 2004 & 2005] - cannibalized one for more pins/wires for steering wheel control - pin 18). DIFFERENT HARNESS FOR 02 & 03.
1 Metra relay (E-5000 - negative triggered on reverse light)
1 Axxess resistor (AFDI-5V - stop amplifier pop on startup)
1 USB3/HDMI Adapter (Willizter 26121600 - take over cigarette lighter spot)
1 Double Din adapter (PAC Audio LLSK582)
1 Roll of pinstripe tape (flat black to cover the Kenwood branding on the edge of the headunit. Wrapping the entire outer frame to make it look nice/OEM)

I bought the big ticket items from my local audio shop (Audio Design in San Jose, CA - highly recommended) and the items they didn't have in stock from Crutchfield. Crutchhield provided great wiring diagrams!

The car is remote from me. I bought it for my daughter who is out of state. I wanted to prep (test and solder) everything here before shipment to make it easier on the installer.

So far so good!

When I attach the reverse wire to the negative (ground) terminal on my power supply, the rear view camera pops up. Once I remove it, the forward camera pops up for 5 seconds. The forward camera can be seen at other times by holding the Nav button down (used for curbs while parking!). Wireless CarPlay is working fine.

The Kenwood has a speed sensor wire. It looks like that and the power antenna wires are the only ones I will not be using.

I replaced the default Kenwood boot up screen with a Thunderbird image I "liberated" from the online version of the Quickstart guide that came with the car. Instructions on how to swap boot images are available on the Internet. I include the new boot image png file below. To use it, you will have to convert it to bmp (16 bit RGB) format (I used GIMP - Note: this forum would not accept the bmp file I created - otherwise ...).

I will be keeping the original headunit in case it needs to return to stock.

My thought is this will take an awesome car and update it for the modern era (and become safer)!

I am happy to answer any questions!

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This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Outstanding, I did a similar install of a Kenwood in my 2002, I used a different steering wheel control module and was not happy with it at all, it constantly loses its programming (an ASC-1 IIRC), I hope you have better luck.
 
I acquired:

1 Kenwood DNR1007XR
1 iDatalink/Maestro SW (ADS-MSW) steering wheel control adapter
2 Kenwood CMOS-740HD cameras (MUST use REAR and FRONT/DASHCAM leads on headunit)
1 SiriusXM adapter (SXV300)
2 Metra harnesses (70-5521 [only works for 2004 & 2005] - cannibalized one for more pins/wires for steering wheel control - pin 18). DIFFERENT HARNESS FOR 02 & 03.
1 Metra relay (E-5000 - negative triggered on reverse light)
1 Axxess resistor (AFDI-5V - stop amplifier pop on startup)
1 USB3/HDMI Adapter (Willizter 26121600 - take over cigarette lighter spot)
1 Double Din adapter (PAC Audio LLSK582)
1 Roll of pinstripe tape (flat black to cover the Kenwood branding on the edge of the headunit. Wrapping the entire outer frame to make it look nice/OEM)

I bought the big ticket items from my local audio shop (Audio Design in San Jose, CA - highly recommended) and the items they didn't have in stock from Crutchfield. Crutchhield provided great wiring diagrams!

The car is remote from me. I bought it for my daughter who is out of state. I wanted to prep (test and solder) everything here before shipment to make it easier on the installer.

So far so good!

When I attach the reverse wire to the negative (ground) terminal on my power supply, the rear view camera pops up. Once I remove it, the forward camera pops up for 5 seconds. The forward camera can be seen at other times by holding the Nav button down (used for curbs while parking!). Wireless CarPlay is working fine.

The Kenwood has a speed sensor wire. It looks like that and the power antenna wires are the only ones I will not be using.

I replaced the default Kenwood boot up screen with a Thunderbird image I "liberated" from the online version of the Quickstart guide that came with the car. Instructions on how to swap boot images are available on the Internet. I include the new boot image png file below. To use it, you will have to convert it to bmp (16 bit RGB) format (I used GIMP - Note: this forum would not accept the bmp file I created - otherwise ...).

I will be keeping the original headunit in case it needs to return to stock.

My thought is this will take an awesome car and update it for the modern era (and become safer)!

I am happy to answer any questions!

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It would be really nice if you could show this much detail when you go about installing it in the car. Then we all have guidance for doing it to our cars.

This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
Nice documentation of the parts and pieces. The bench mock-up with the T-logo boot screen looks pro. It may seem sorta slow with responses but not to worry, someone will appreciate the how-to and perhaps reduce fear factor? Listed items I'd add are - you need 35 alligator jumper leads and a 30A, fan-cooled 12V power supply. 🙂

Seems the largest member clan are purists that have taken the 'no-touchy' oath. I've put up how-to titles - Borla exhaust systems, air box removal, catch-can install posts with details and images. Maybe one response for all. It's not a non-interest thing, they just can't imagine changing anything. To the daring outlaws making modifications and improvements - I say Bravo!

This site is great - allows images and basically archives posts for future visitors searching. I get the title year(s) discipline and the way it groups similar titles when viewing a subject. Seems setup for easy searches on a subject. I post for the few that may read it and find it useful never expecting much response up here. I have used the how-to posts I made here linked to Facebook T-Bird groups to view them. They are much chattier about wrenching on these things. Thinking a different demographic in that media?
 
Nice documentation of the parts and pieces. The bench mock-up with the T-logo boot screen looks pro. It may seem sorta slow with responses but not to worry, someone will appreciate the how-to and perhaps reduce fear factor? Listed items I'd add are - you need 35 alligator jumper leads and a 30A, fan-cooled 12V power supply. 🙂

Seems the largest member clan are purists that have taken the 'no-touchy' oath. I've put up how-to titles - Borla exhaust systems, air box removal, catch-can install posts with details and images. Maybe one response for all. It's not a non-interest thing, they just can't imagine changing anything. To the daring outlaws making modifications and improvements - I say Bravo!

This site is great - allows images and basically archives posts for future visitors searching. I get the title year(s) discipline and the way it groups similar titles when viewing a subject. Seems setup for easy searches on a subject. I post for the few that may read it and find it useful never expecting much response up here. I have used the how-to posts I made here linked to Facebook T-Bird groups to view them. They are much chattier about wrenching on these things. Thinking a different demographic in that media?
Thank you for the kind words!

The Thunderbird logo popping up on startup transforms the experience. It really feels OEM! The Kenwood UI reminds me of the UI on my neighbor's Raptor. It really feels integrated and Ford appropriate.

I agree with you on the power supply info. A car battery can also be used if care is taken not to short the leads. My installation tech sometimes tests with a 12 V battery from his cordless drill. If you do that, limit your test sessions to under 20 minutes at a time!

I completely understand the "leave it alone" point of view (POV). To each their own! My POV is that the car needs to be viewed by the driver(s) as equal to their other cars in capabilities and safety features. For that, hi-res cameras are a must. Bluetooth phone integration is a must. Nav is a must. Steering wheel integration is a must. CarPlay is a nice to have - but it's capability to read out messages and take dictation for messages and navigation is much safer than taking ones eyes off the road.

I appreciate your thoughts on this forum. I'm an active contributor on a C7 Corvette forum. There is much interaction there as we are constantly upgrading the cars. Previously I was active on a Camaro forum. I still receive messages from the Camaro forum on posts from many years ago!
I plan on checking out your posts on the catch can and Borla exhaust!

Here are some more pictures of the system before I shipped it to the installer. These will aid in final connections, what the front-end (curb view)/rear- end (license plate view) look like, required audio settings (stock speakers) and the masking off of the Kenwood branding to make it look OEM.

I couldn't resist the Thunderstruck cameo!

IMG_2406.jpegIMG_2415.jpegIMG_2412.jpeg67675716080__4C49E08F-4B1F-4AF5-AF61-A7AA325AE6F6.jpeg67675713678__39FA80DF-3FE3-4726-8401-92CCF0885DBD.jpegIMG_2411.jpegIMG_2410.jpegIMG_2409.jpegIMG_2408.jpegIMG_2407.jpeg
 
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Ho man that thing has some spanky tech! The speaker X-over points and EQ plots are not for the timid. Pretty sure that spooked a few if the front cam wasn't enough, the 20-page manual will finish 'em off. Should probably book that flight to dial that baby in for the shop ninnies. 🙂 (kidding)

Hope the thread inspires some to at least consider a proper branded replacement if swapping. See many Facebook owners asking about Boss and other cheese units. They actually downgrade their sound with cheap units that look like Vegas billboards at night.

I came from MG and Miata world and enjoyed car forums that were basically a resource. Finding a Bird up for sale, I explored anything and everything I could find expecting busy retro-bird forums. Um, not so much. Few active retro forum sites exist. Facebook has a few groups but they're fast-moving posts with the same returning questions. I discovered the Lincoln LS forum crowd are the mad modders wrenching the hooey out of these cars. They run these out often reporting high millage. That's good as they're the same drivetrain. Clearly Lincolns are not so collectable but seeing mods like LSD rear end swaps and making 'em scoot is fun.

This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
I have just bought a 56, but because of that have gotten interested in the newer TBirds as a possibility for my wife. I think I would be very interested in upgrading the car as you have if we purchase a newer one to go with our first gen. If you don't mind saying, how much did the components cost? I realize that installation would be another issue (finding someone that I trust), but that would give me a good ball park guess.
 
I have just bought a 56, but because of that have gotten interested in the newer TBirds as a possibility for my wife. I think I would be very interested in upgrading the car as you have if we purchase a newer one to go with our first gen. If you don't mind saying, how much did the components cost? I realize that installation would be another issue (finding someone that I trust), but that would give me a good ball park guess.
The items I mentioned above is about $2500 retail. You can find some components for less.

Installation prices vary. If you are mechanically inclined and able bodied, this isn’t that hard of an installation. I would be doing it myself but the car is remote with my daughter at present. Looks like about $450 to install it in New Mexico.
 
I acquired:

1 Kenwood DNR1007XR
1 iDatalink/Maestro SW (ADS-MSW) steering wheel control adapter
2 Kenwood CMOS-740HD cameras (MUST use REAR and FRONT/DASHCAM leads on headunit)
1 SiriusXM adapter (SXV300)
2 Metra harnesses (70-5521 [only works for 2004 & 2005] - cannibalized one for more pins/wires for steering wheel control - pin 18). DIFFERENT HARNESS FOR 02 & 03.
1 Metra relay (E-5000 - negative triggered on reverse light)
1 Axxess resistor (AFDI-5V - stop amplifier pop on startup)
1 USB3/HDMI Adapter (Willizter 26121600 - take over cigarette lighter spot)
1 Double Din adapter (PAC Audio LLSK582)
1 Roll of pinstripe tape (flat black to cover the Kenwood branding on the edge of the headunit. Wrapping the entire outer frame to make it look nice/OEM)

I bought the big ticket items from my local audio shop (Audio Design in San Jose, CA - highly recommended) and the items they didn't have in stock from Crutchfield. Crutchhield provided great wiring diagrams!

The car is remote from me. I bought it for my daughter who is out of state. I wanted to prep (test and solder) everything here before shipment to make it easier on the installer.

So far so good!

When I attach the reverse wire to the negative (ground) terminal on my power supply, the rear view camera pops up. Once I remove it, the forward camera pops up for 5 seconds. The forward camera can be seen at other times by holding the Nav button down (used for curbs while parking!). Wireless CarPlay is working fine.

The Kenwood has a speed sensor wire. It looks like that and the power antenna wires are the only ones I will not be using.

I replaced the default Kenwood boot up screen with a Thunderbird image I "liberated" from the online version of the Quickstart guide that came with the car. Instructions on how to swap boot images are available on the Internet. I include the new boot image png file below. To use it, you will have to convert it to bmp (16 bit RGB) format (I used GIMP - Note: this forum would not accept the bmp file I created - otherwise ...).

I will be keeping the original headunit in case it needs to return to stock.

My thought is this will take an awesome car and update it for the modern era (and become safer)!

I am happy to answer any questions!

View attachment 22746
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I'm trying not to be dumb while doing my best to figure out your rear camera wiring. I know I need the relay ... it's been ordered! Unfortunately, and for the life of me, I cannot wrap my head around the correct wiring From head unit > relay > vehicle. Any chance you have time to detail this is a hand drawn picture? I know its a lot to ask and understand if time doesn't permit. Thank you.

This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
He nailed the schematic but a bit of head wrapping theory....

Canbus controlled back-up lamps have unstable (rippled) DC supplied. They light-up like lamps but the DC is twitchy for the wee camera requiring flat, clean (+) power. You could tap older cars that simply sent fused power to the lamps. But today, we add junk on the line. So, they need another (+) source, The 'trigger' is tapped from the unstable back-up (+) wire. and is just used to 'trigger' or pull in the relay. Stable, clean power is then routed to Mr. Cam and she works! The relays often have filters and other goodness as it's all about clean. Your schematic supplied will show the hook up. Google - 'how-to install backup-relay'. lots-o-stuff out there.
 
I put a high end Kenwood in my 2002, as shown above on some of the screens, it has some killer tuning capabilities adjustments for speaker snumber/size/location, listening focus, type of vehicle and the usual audio configuration items.
When I was done I think that car had the best sound system of any I've owned.

This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
Instead of connecting (30 and 85) to the yellow harness wire, I am connecting to the red harness wire. Reason is yellow wire puts a parasitic load on the battery. Red (accessory) does not. Cameras and everything else being installed is powered off of red. Single yellow goes to headunit it to allow setting to be saved between power cycles.

I am locating the relay near the head unit in the harness as opposed to the tail light area. Reason is only one wire to run and no need for a separate fuse as all that is being tapped near the tail light is ground. The gear shift to reverse and out of reverse will “mask” the sound of the relay activating.
 
It’s in!

getting a new hole in the firewall was fun.

vents are fine for AC and heat. You can see more of the vents from the driver’s eye level.

satellite antennas are on top of the Kenwood. They Work great!
334E8FA4-8290-40C7-A1D2-EA21078873C7.jpegD8DD1360-452F-45F3-898A-2ECE91F2B1C7.jpegD4072A33-0CA6-4499-9F85-026B3076506D.jpeg98719F7F-5BBC-41DD-A8A4-25732FD0B8B5.jpeg
 
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To connect to the reverse gear (negative triggered) signal, connect to the black/green wire on upper left connector to the REM. It’s pin 9. Closest wire to you on the top row of wires.
0CC2D64A-C67E-464D-856C-5A63A5BBABE5.jpeg

This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'm wanting to make sure I truly understand this correctly. Considering I too have a Kenwood. A Excelon DMX957XR to be exact. I know the wiring structure is the same. Given that information and based on your guidance. Is Example 1 or 2 the correct wiring? The changes would be at the Red and yellow Kenwood wires.
Camera_Page_1.jpgView attachment 23840
 
@TheMonk1969

I built example #3 (not shown in your diagrams). I connected #30 AND #85 to the red (ignition) wire.

All 3 should work. That said I would only chose #1 or #3.

I am not a fan of connecting anything (except mandatory) to the yellow wire given potential parasitic loads on the battery.

BTW Great diagrams!
 
@TheMonk1969

I built example #3 (not shown in your diagrams). I connected #30 AND #85 to the red (ignition) wire.

All 3 should work. That said I would only chose #1 or #3.

I am not a fan of connecting anything (except mandatory) to the yellow wire given potential parasitic loads on the battery.

BTW Great diagrams!
I made Example 2 based on the wording in the relay diagram that had (yellows) noted. I wasn't sure if it was right or wrong. That said, below is Example 3 as you've described and exactly how you connected yours? After your confirmation, I believe I have the knowledge to perform the task. Thank you again.
Camera.jpg

This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I made Example 2 based on the wording in the relay diagram that had (yellows) noted. I wasn't sure if it was right or wrong. That said, below is Example 3 as you've described and exactly how you connected yours? After your confirmation, I believe I have the knowledge to perform the task. Thank you again.
The attached should be the final edits with notes and very specific details. Your thoughts?
Camera_Page_1.jpgCamera_Page_2.jpg
 
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