2003 Thunderbird Rear Sway Bar Link Replacement

[Sharps40]

Moderator note: See this thread for a parts list.

Ford Thunderbird Sway Bars & Tie Rods 2002 2003 2004 2005

ECONOMY PART $: 2002-2005 Front Sway Bar set only. Click here to order on Amazon 2002-2005 Front & Rear Sway Bar End Links Replacement for 2002-2005 Ford Thunderbird Click here to order on Amazon. 2002- Detroit Axle Complete Power Steering Rack & Pinion Assembly + All 4 Inner & Outer Tie Rod...

forums.fordthunderbirdforum.com

I'll type it up first, then add photos, probably take a couple of posts. Then you'll have it all in three posts and not have to hunt through many comments for the steps.

I started chasing down annoying clicks and clunks in my 71K mile Thunderbird. This classy car ought to be clunk free.

First one is resolved two weeks back. New tires to replace the 12-year-old dry rotted hard as a rock and shaking Falkens. Added a front and rear alignment for $75 and no more shimmy shaking thumpy bumping down the highway.

The second one resolved today. The third one is yet to be located but sounds like it's under the third brake light.

To the second one.....a light click in the rear suspension. Everything on the rear checks tight and unrotted, except the sway bar links.

Got mine from Detroit Axle through Amazon.
-Click here for Rear.
-Click here for front and Rear (Mod updated)

Though offshore made, you can see they are substantially heavier construction in the shaft and have zerk fittings. Mine came greased, but now I can give them a shot of lube at each tire rotation. For me, that will be every 10K miles with the oil (full synthetic) and filter change.



Jacked up the car with the floor jack in the rear spot, added a jack stand under the suspension, took the wheel off, cleaned the lug nut threads and the lug stud threads. Brakes look good but are the cheaper dusty type, I'll get to replacing them later.

Hit the upper and lower nut with PB blaster, your uppers may or may not have a protective cap over the nut. Mine did on one side, it broke on removal, it did not have an upper cap on the opposite side.

No room for a buzz wrench on the lower nut but on the top nut there is. Buzz it off. If it won't buzz off, just keep at it till you see bubbles coming out from under the nut, then switch to wrenches and turn the nut off the upper stud.

Use wrenches to turn the lower nut off its stud and remove the sway bar link. Where I positioned my jack stand (near the bushing) there was no tension or compression in the sway bar so everything was slip in and slip out.



Install the new link. The nuts that came with it are the light interference thread type and have a built in scalloped washer. No lock tite needed, just tighten them up. I went to 40 ft lbs for the small diameter studs.

Reinstall the rear wheel, lube the lug studs if thats your wont....I do. Saves grief later, more even torque and they don't come loose nor gall.

Of the two links, the passenger side was worn to the point of simply flopping at the joint. The drivers side was only slightly tighter. Plus, all the rubber was rotted away on both.

Took it for a ride, no more suspension noise, so, now I can rip out the trunk liners and top well liner and find that last clickclunk, after I replace the burned out front drivers light bulb.....

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 

[BillM]

many new design sway bar links have flats for an open end wrench for when putting nut back on

 

[Sharps40]

ah well.....so much for holding commentary a few minutes....🙂 Overall, an easy fix for anybody. And if the Tbird links are like the ones I had on my Mustangs, probably most every bird on the road needs them replaced. None of the factory units seem to last more than a few years.

 

[350xfire]

Thanks, I was wondering about these Detroit Axle parts. Definitely look like a good upgrade. I have to do this job on my 02

 

[Sharps40]

Same as ford, metal ball on plastic cup, would think that are also 24 month units like factory. But greasable and lower cost. I've used Detroit axle parts before. Ain't moog but.....runs good, no smoke.

 

[04tbirdjerry]

I have replaced almost every component on the rear suspension but the two top and one bottom A arms, and they are wore out. I was pretty dissapointed on how fast the suspension wore down on the car, but i do drive it hard.

 

[DavidP2076]

I just took my recently acquired 2003 Thunderbird (May 2021) to our local Ford dealership to have the oil changed and cooling system flushed as normal maintenance items and asked them to look it over for any other possible issues, that may need attention. The Bird only has 30,000 miles, but I am aware there are some things, like Coolant, and soft items, belts, hoses, etc. that are time sensitive as well as actual wear. However I was bolled over when their service department called and said front and rear stabilizer links were in very bad condition and insurgent need of replacement. I've already authorized the work ton the tune of about $1,200, but would like others thoughts.

Comments from others are solicited regarding front and rear stabilizers being shot on a 2003 Thunderbird with 30,000 actual miles always garage kept.

Ps, Bird drives perfectly as best I can tell.

 

[JAT]

I just took my recently acquired 2003 Thunderbird (May 2021) to our local Ford dealership to have the oil changed and cooling system flushed as normal maintenance items and asked them to look it over for any other possible issues, that may need attention. The Bird only has 30,000 miles, but I am aware there are some things, like Coolant, and soft items, belts, hoses, etc. that are time sensitive as well as actual wear. However I was bolled over when their service department called and said front and rear stabilizer links were in very bad condition and insurgent need of replacement. I've already authorized the work ton the tune of about $1,200, but would like others thoughts.

Comments from others are solicited regarding front and rear stabilizers being shot on a 2003 Thunderbird with 30,000 actual miles always garage kept.

Ps, Bird drives perfectly as best I can tell.

When I bought my 2005 Cashmere bird that only had 37,000 miles on it, I had to replace my stabilizer bars. I have my own shop and hoist and they were definately worn out! I could hear a noise in the rear of the car and when I looked the joints of the stabilizer bars were loose and worn out!

 

[DavidP2076]

Thank you. Very helpful. Must have been an engineering or manufacturing issue in these models. I have noticed several threads regarding how to replace the links. Doubt they would be there unless this is a common problem. Actually glad I can retain my trust in my dealership. Thank you for the reply.

 

[biddle]

Must have been an engineering or manufacturing issue in these models.

Or the fact the car is almost two decades old. Threads about issues/problems on any forum for any topic doesn't mean it's a widespread problem. People have a tendency to post about problems, not about things that are not a problem.

 

[edward301]

I just took my recently acquired 2003 Thunderbird (May 2021) to our local Ford dealership to have the oil changed and cooling system flushed as normal maintenance items and asked them to look it over for any other possible issues, that may need attention. The Bird only has 30,000 miles, but I am aware there are some things, like Coolant, and soft items, belts, hoses, etc. that are time sensitive as well as actual wear. However I was bolled over when their service department called and said front and rear stabilizer links were in very bad condition and insurgent need of replacement. I've already authorized the work ton the tune of about $1,200, but would like others thoughts.

Comments from others are solicited regarding front and rear stabilizers being shot on a 2003 Thunderbird with 30,000 actual miles always garage kept.

Ps, Bird drives perfectly as best I can tell.

Don't feel bad, I have two 2002 Birds with only 13k miles each and all of my suspension parts were rotted to pieces. No driving in bad
weather, and are parked in a climate controlled garage.

 

[edward301]

Sharps40 I bet the thumping you are hearing near your third brake light is the rear upper control arms with bad bushings.

I had that problem, and noticed the inner upper control arms bushings are fluid filled bushings, they were rotten along
with many other rubber components. I decided to replace everything at one time since I was going to be replacing some
parts, that turned my then 18 year old car into a almost brand new car, ride and sound wise.

The only thing I wish I had done was to replace the bad shocks at the same time. I did not, and replaced all four of them
just a few weeks ago. All of the shocks were weak, now both of my T Birds run like new.

The shocks are actually struts, it was fun getting the springs off of the shocks-struts, and them reinstalling the springs,
and getting the nut on. I got so good at it, it only took me about 12 minutes per shock strut to complete. I have
attached a photo of replacing the shocks.