2003 Coolant Recovery Plastic Tank Cracked, AGAIN | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
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2003 Coolant Recovery Plastic Tank Cracked, AGAIN

  • Thread starter Thread starter The Flash
  • Start date Start date
T
Reaction score
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Thunderbird Year
2003
For the third time, the plastic coolant recovery tank cracked and leaked. The last one was installed 11 months ago. When I bought it for $30 dollars it looked like a Ford OEM part. I don't know how long ago it was made but after 11 months in the car, it cracked and leaked.

When I contacted AM-Auto Parts they just looked up my name and email and found the invoice. Said they would send out a new one, I hope it's not the Ford OEM type, no charge to me. They said most parts have a TEN-year warranty.

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Where is it cracking? Same as last time? Can you post pics? Maybe try putting some rubber (washers/sheeting etc.) between it's mounting and contact points and don't over tighten the bolts. Use a permanent marker and write the install date on the tank. See how long it goes this time. Gook luck!
 
I bet they sold you a tank made by Dorman. They are famous for cracking in our birds. If it were me, I would try sealing it up by covering the tank with fiberglass cloth and resin. You can find these at marine suppliers. Some Flexseal or FlexTape may also do the trick. Once you have the replacement you will be able to experiment with the old one.
 
I have also repaired broken plastic using a soldering iron/gun. Melt into the broken area and then fill in with an additional piece of plastic. Similar to soldering or brazing. For appearance, use a similar color plastic for the filler. I often use plastic caps from spray paint cans, many different colors to choose from. Like anything, you get better with practice. Plastic welding kits are also sold, but I have never used one.


 
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Had to have mine done twice. Fortunately replacement has aftermarket lifetime warranty.

Unfortunately owner has to pay labor after first year and I missed by a few months

It's something I have checked every time it's in shop .. even had a coloring added to coolant make leaks more visible

I bet they sold you a tank made by Dorman.
I'll check with my repair shop to see what brand it is

This skimpy unit is not something Ford can be proud of
 
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How about covering the cracked tank with Fiberglas and epoxy? Used to make boat racing tanks with FG.
Or pour epoxy resin in the tank and rotate? Danged if I will pay $200 for one! 🙁
 
The first time the tank cracked it was 6/2007 at 27,000 miles Ford did it under warranty. Then at 8/2019 at 66,500 miles. I did it and got the tank from AM Auto parts and I am pretty sure it was Ford OEM. came with a Ford cap and hose with Ford clamp.
Now 8/4/2020 it cracks again just like the last tank did a 6" crack on the backside. Not because of the way it is mounted.
AM Parts will send me a new one NO Charge and I do not think it is a Ford part because they told me it has a different part number. They want to old part back and they will continue to warranty the tank, so I can't fix it, they want it back.
Now that I know how to change it does not take very long. Just have to wait about 5 days for the ground shipping of the part.
 
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How about a aluminum recovery tank. Should last forever.

You know that would have been a good investment a year ago. But now I have a 10 year extended warranty cost $0

I got the new tank today, Sunday. I first put some gorilla tape on the new tank where the old tank had cracks before I installed the new tank. I will send the old cracked tank back for my ten-year extended warranty.
 
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How hard are these to install; thinking about a preemptive move to put an aluminum one in my 2002 ?
 
Not very.
Drain the cooling system at the bottom right of the radiator.
Remove windshield wiper arms.
Remove the plastic cowling, then remove the crossbar.
Remove to 2 small bolts that hold the coolant tank on, and the top coolant hose from the tank.
Remove or just move some of the hoses and wires that are in the way of access to the 1/2" water hose-pipe on the fire-wall behind the left cyl. head.

This is the hardest part. Because it is in a tight space.
There is a 1/2" hose than is connected at the bottom of the coolant tank, you can not reach it. Leave it on the tank. Disconnect it at the back of the left cylinder head. There is a hold-down clip that holds the coolant pipe to the fire-wall. The coolant hose has a spring-loaded clamp, release the clamp and slide it up onto the pipe. Now cut the hose with a knife or razor blade to remove it after 15 years on the pipe.

After the hose has been removed from the pipe pull up on the coolant tank and the 1/2" will follow as it runs behind and under the brake booster tank.

When you buy the plastic tank the hose that was cut off at the fire-wall that hose comes on the new tank with a spring-loaded clamp. It is a formed hose. I do not know what you will get with the aluminum tank. But you will need a new hose. you may be able to hose just a straight hose BUT I never had too, so I don't know how a straight hose will fit.
NOTE:
Before I put the 1/2" hose on the coolant pipe at the fire-wall I remove the OEM constant pressure clamp and use a worm clamp so I can tighten it with a socket with an extension. I do not have the special tool for the constant press. clamp and there is very little room behind the cyl. head.
I also put a small amount of Vaseline on the coolant pipe so the 1/2" hose slides on better.

I also use 1/2" hose grip pliers to push the hose onto the pipe.
The coolant tank has what looks like 2 top hose connections. There is only one hose connection, the other is just a blank mount to hold a rubber support.
 
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