2002-2005 LAMP OUT - Replaced Head lights, side lights and tail lights with LED's | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models

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2002-2005 LAMP OUT - Replaced Head lights, side lights and tail lights with LED's

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mlh
  • Start date Start date
Mlh

Mlh

Bronze Member
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Thunderbird Year
2005
Greetings all - On my 2005, I had first changed out the head lights with LED's (GTR Lighting Ultra Series 9007 /HB5- 3rd Gen) and turn single bulbs ( GTR Lighting Ultra Series 3156/3157) made a huge difference, no warning lights appeared. Then I changed out the tail, side and driving lights, now I'm getting the "LAMP OUT" display.
Do I run the risk of hurting anything buy just leaving it alone. Any suggestions. The LED make such a big difference.

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I think you'll need "Canbus" free leds to make that message go away. I have done LED headlights, foglights and interior LEDs but not any other outside lamps. I used the proper canbus style lamps. All is good and are they ever bright! I don't know if you will do any damage.
 
Please put the model year(s) in the subject on future posts. Added for you.
model-year-TBF.jpg
 
Mlh said:
Greetings all - On my 2005, I had first changed out the head lights with LED's (GTR Lighting Ultra Series 9007 /HB5- 3rd Gen) and turn single bulbs ( GTR Lighting Ultra Series 3156/3157) made a huge difference, no warning lights appeared. Then I changed out the tail, side and driving lights, now I'm getting the "LAMP OUT" display.
Do I run the risk of hurting anything buy just leaving it alone. Any suggestions. The LED make such a big difference.
Click to expand...

When I replaced my tail lights with LEDs, I had to install load resistors in parallel. The LEDs draw such little current compared to the incandescents, that the electronic module detects them as being out.

Amazon part.
 
atouk said:
When I replaced my tail lights with LEDs, I had to install load resistors in parallel. The LEDs draw such little current compared to the incandescents, that the electronic module detects them as being out.

Amazon part.
Click to expand...
Load resistors - what ohms and wattage please? A set on each LED lamp? Thx
 
The tail lights are particularly problematic. I've tried several LEDs that worked as turn signal/brake lights as long as the tail lights were not on but stopped working and through codes as soon as the tail lights were turned on.
 
CANBUS logic monitors the lamp circuit using comparative resistance data telling it - what it should be and what it reads. Sudden resistance change (ohms) means a lamp burned open and the alert is triggered on. A conventional incandescent bulb will pull around 6-8 ohms or 50-65 watts power when in circuit. An LED equivalent even a brighter bulb will pull less than 2 OHM's. Depends on the new LED bulbs where some include built-in resistors for this purpose - no lamp fail light. They may indicate 'CANBUS friendly or guarantee no lamp fail trigger'. These would not require a load resistor as they have one. External load resistors referenced are around 6 OHM's designed to be placed in series or spliced in-line with the (+) power wire to the lamp socket. They are 50-60W metal, heat-sync enclosed beasts that should not be wrapped with tape or stuffed in holes. They need air to cool. They simulate the incandescent lamp load or resistance to 'fool' the system the bulb is there and good. I do not recommend the blade press style, insulated wire taps included in some kits. I would cut the (+) lead to the socket, then twist and solder the resistor conductors in-line on each end of the cut factory lead. Complete with heat shrink tubing over the top of the wire splices. Crimp connectors may be used but get them tight.

The LED headlamps may not have tripped the lamp as within the monitor threshold. But as the overall load changed going lower with additional LED's it tripped. So, ignoring it is an option where new lamps are not causing damage. Splice in load resistors for the newer LED's and hopefully lift the lamp fail. The thing is, when you 'trick' the system with resistors and/or LED's (all or mixed) you basically disable the 'lamp out' feature. If it's important to have the bulb out feature working - leave the factory lamps as LED's failing will not be detected. Overhead accessory, courtesy lamps, trunk etc., are not monitored so LED them as you like.

Note: Adding LED lamp resistors retains working current load on the alternator and battery, no load was relieved. The best load saving solution would be to run all LED lamps everywhere and simply yank the cluster indicator bulb.

616-QFq7bmL._AC_SX679_.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4V9ECY/?tag=thunderbirdforum-20
 
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