2002-05 Garage Hardtop Hoists

I got a manual hoist/rope winch. It came with a cradle and straps to hold the top. Got a small electric winch and a snatch-block pulley to lower the top at one-half speed.
Big deal was I mounted the winch with heavy sliding door rollers with a 6’ aluminum “I-beam (all one set, 400pds operating strength).
I keep the top in the stand when not in use. I lift the top with the cradle and winch off the stand and raise up.
I back the Tbird into the garage. ROLLING the top over the car and lowering slowly. Set the rear pins in place and lower the front. Remove the cradle and secure the top as directed. CE423EE1-0499-4B08-93BA-69C9421D28D5.jpeg
 
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I use a hoist to get the top up, but I also built a platform, out of 2x4s that swings under the top. I raise the top, then I swing the 2x4s under it, then lower it till it sits on the 2X4's. I dont remove the hoist. That should be the same pressure as the top on a rack or on the ground. SO I have 2 systems holding the top up at the same time, for safety.
This is brilliant. Do you have any pictures
 
I got a manual hoist/rope winch. It came with a cradle and straps to hold the top. Got a small electric winch and a snatch-block pulley to lower the top at one-half speed.
Big deal was I mounted the winch with heavy sliding door rollers with a 6’ aluminum “I-beam (all one set, 400pds operating strength).
I keep the top in the stand when not in use. I lift the top with the cradle and winch off the stand and raise up.
I back the Tbird into the garage. ROLLING the top over the car and lowering slowly. Set the rear pins in place and lower the front. Remove the cradle and secure the top as directed. View attachment 9674
This is extremely clever as I can't raise the top due to its width would interfere with my garage door opener. But by putting the winch arrangement on a sliding door roller assembly you can push the roof, after lifted to a location in the garage where the ceiling is clear. Trouble for me is there is a darned beam running across the garage so I don't have the straight shot clearance you do. But this is best design I have seen. Give most ease also in reinstallation of the roof.
 
Sounds groovy with proper support. One poster mentioned warping. I didn't know fiberglass could form stored off square? Me, I have to detail the inside glass and likely will store in the rack. Never had the top off as just got the bird. Can two people handle the thing? I spotted a YouTube Ford ad where a guy and his girl lifted it off thinking maybe my Wife could assist?

Anyone find a decent storage bag/blanket to wrap the top in? Unheated garage where cotton may hold moisture. Found covers that are that plastic-fabric stuff like car dust covers but are stupid spendy like $150. Really, for a cheesy bag?
 
I would’ve recommend any hoists. I used one and it warped the top. I had to get another top.
This is an interesting issue. What blorenz is suggesting is, if fiberglass hard tops are not properly supported, they can and will change shape over time. Add hot weather and extended periods to this equation and it seems very possible. I believe it. They seem sturdy enough but even if you were to set it down on a horizontal surface in a hot garage/shop for 8 mos. or forever, it just might change shape from it's own weight of 85 lbs. What to do? If you watch the car resto programs on tv and they want the body to stay put while they rebuild the frame, what do they do? They weld temporary, steel battens or brackets where needed to keep the structure in place. Viola, we have an answer.

Fashion a piece of stout (2"x 2"x 5/16") angle iron to bolt into the two front HT holes carefully using nylon and steel washers to eliminate damage. Now do the same across the pins towards the back. You may have to invent a clamp to hold it on or drill a small hole for a clevis pin. Once in place, run 1 1/4" flat bar from corner to corner to form an X and bolt it to the steel angle iron and at the x point. If you can, have it welded.

You now have a rigid steel bracket to hold the HT. Hook your lift straps to these and you will not exert pressure on the HT.

I have not done this but sounds good. Comments?
 
I got one made for a Jeep. Works pretty well.
 

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This is an interesting issue. What blorenz is suggesting is, if fiberglass hard tops are not properly supported, they can and will change shape over time. Add hot weather and extended periods to this equation and it seems very possible. I believe it. They seem sturdy enough but even if you were to set it down on a horizontal surface in a hot garage/shop for 8 mos. or forever, it just might change shape from it's own weight of 85 lbs. What to do? If you watch the car resto programs on tv and they want the body to stay put while they rebuild the frame, what do they do? They weld temporary, steel battens or brackets where needed to keep the structure in place. Viola, we have an answer.

Fashion a piece of stout (2"x 2"x 5/16") angle iron to bolt into the two front HT holes carefully using nylon and steel washers to eliminate damage. Now do the same across the pins towards the back. You may have to invent a clamp to hold it on or drill a small hole for a clevis pin. Once in place, run 1 1/4" flat bar from corner to corner to form an X and bolt it to the steel angle iron and at the x point. If you can, have it welded.

You now have a rigid steel bracket to hold the HT. Hook your lift straps to these and you will not exert pressure on the HT.

I have not done this but sounds good. Comments?
This is a clever idea for use with a hoist. However, I recently purchased a 2003 and from the day they bought the car they removed the hardtop and placed it into Ford's support stand and it wasn't put it back on until I bought it. The car was garaged, not driven in the winter, and never had the hardtop on it. I put it on when I bought the car and after almost 20 years of it sitting there it fit just fine, no problems. So, at least for those of us who have room to store the hardtop on the stand, it would seem that the stand method of storage hasn't caused any problems. The top was stored in a gargae in CT where it experienced hot and cold temps, and all of that seems to have worked out ok.
 
Most cheap and easy plan. I made it by 4 duct hanger pipe and 4 tie-down belt. Its suitable for narrow tokyo house. Of course one man can operate.
I'm thinking of doing the same.....but I think I'll use PVC....Thanks for ideas!
 
Hi O
I started with the Harbor Freight 400 lb. Elect hoist. $80 with coupon. You can see the unistrut that has a matching piece above two ceiling joist clamped together with long bolts. Works great.
Hi,
I would like the dimensions of your pvc pipe top holder. I have 2 Gambrel & Pulley manual hoists from harbor freight that I thought would work. Some guys are coming to help and I would not be lowering it again until I sell. Thanks for your help. Lorna
 
I use the top cradle to store the top when not on the car. I use the bow from the top-hoist. Added a winch on an 4 foot rail in the ceiling so that I can attach the house cable to the cradle-bow and slowly lift the top off the cradle and raise it to the car height. roll the winch/w the top suspended forward to the car and slowly lower it onto the car. Two people are better, but I can do the whole thing by myself.
Removal is the reverse after the screws and clamps are removed. It has worked for several years. Good luck. The rail spans 4 ft and 3 ceiling trusses to carry the weight.
 

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I have a hoist I purchased shortly after I bought the bird in 2002. My question is this...I now live in a house that doesn't have a proper garage, but instead a 3 sided metal carport. Are the crossbars on the roof strong enough to support the top if I span the hoist over 2 'rafters'.
 
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