1964-1966 Ultimate restomod? | Ford Thunderbird forum club group 1955-2005 models
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1964-1966 Ultimate restomod?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ak7an
  • Start date Start date
ak7an
Reaction score
78
Thunderbird Year
1964
@64ZCODE and I exchanged some pleasant remarks regarding restomoding a Flairbird. Not wanting to hijack the thread he mentioned that it was worthy of its own thread, so here goes.
First off, the car when finished has to be a dependable (as much as this is possible) vehicle that you would not be afraid to jump in a take a nice weekend road trip. I know I am making it kind of narrow by limiting the model years to 64-66, but we could start threads for every generation of these wonderful cars. Ok, Ok I know that some of us do not like that we change, update, and/or modify and that's OK. I respect your opinion and what you like, so please be respectful of those who enjoy doing these things to our cars.

So go ahead and post up your ideas of the ultimate Flairbird Restomod.. I will enjoy hearing what you have to say..

Take care and stay safe..
Ed

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LOVE THIS. Can't wait to see what pops up. Are we assuming a currently running car, in original configuration? Kind of a survivor car situation? I've never done a Flair bird (I'm a bullet bird guy) forgive me if I ask for something that was changed.
Since we're going for reliability, my first change would be a Pertronix ignition and coil (with a new 12V direct lead, replacing the factory resistive wire) and new plugs. The old girl should start and run reliably.
Who is next?
 
LOVE THIS. Can't wait to see what pops up. Are we assuming a currently running car, in original configuration? Kind of a survivor car situation? I've never done a Flair bird (I'm a bullet bird guy) forgive me if I ask for something that was changed.
Since we're going for reliability, my first change would be a Pertronix ignition and coil (with a new 12V direct lead, replacing the factory resistive wire) and new plugs. The old girl should start and run reliably.
Who is next?

Whatever condition you would want it to be.. Whatever mod you would make, different engine, trans, etc.. That's the beauty of it..

Stroked 351 W, 4R70W overdrive transmission, 3.73 rear gear... Sure would make it scoot..

Keep it going
Ed
 
Whatever condition you would want it to be.. Whatever mod you would make, different engine, trans, etc.. That's the beauty of it..

Stroked 351 W, 4R70W overdrive transmission, 3.73 rear gear... Sure would make it scoot..

Keep it going
Ed

Ouch! You'd pull that big beautiful FE for a small block? I'll grant it makes room for the one thing I've done that really wakes up a 390 (never was lucky enough to have a 428) - HEADERS. For all the mods to the top of the motor, getting rid of that uber-restrictive exhaust manifold for nice breathable headers seems to be the best single upgrade. The problem is (and it's my biggest design complaint) those huge wheel wells/shock towers. But FPA with their excellent if pricey "Shorty" headers (same model as my Bullet birds) would be my first pure-performance mod.
 
Would be very nice to replace the suspension with a modern suspension. Not sure this is easy or even feasible with a unibody car, but maybe it's out there. I saw a Dodge Dart (a unibody car) that a guy had put a frame under so he could go with the suspension he wanted. At least replacing the control arms to get more castor and adjustability for castor, camber and toe in would be good. On the '64, only toe in is adjustable.

Whether going with the 390 or other engine, an EFI fuel system upgrade is nice, although carburetion is OK. Doing the electronic ignition upgrade, of course. Free flowing exhaust headers and mufflers, although I've heard the benefit of the headers may not be all that obvious.

Overdrive transmission, upgraded disc brake system, replace single with dual master, suspension upgrades to better connect the car with the road, third member gear ratio change, limited slip differential, and possibly an aluminum driveshaft.

Finally, the engine. The 390 is a heavy sucker, weighing in around 650 pounds. You can add performance adders like intake manifold and camshaft, but why not go with a lighter, more modern engine that can make more horsepower and torque? Personally I'd look at a Coyote or an LS engine.

An then there's ditching the gas engine and installing an electric drive. Still pretty expensive but lots of scoot when you're done. Then you could stop talking about miles per gallon and instead talk about time to go from 0 to 100 mph.

A note of reality before we all launch on this: the TBird is not a muscle car, it's a sports luxury car. They're pretty enjoyable the way they are, especially with the ignition system and exhaust system upgrades.
 
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ZCode makes a great point about weight. But since I'm in love with big, torque-y FE's, I'm just going to reduce one of them some more: out go not only that iron exhaust manifold, but the cyl heads, hugely heavy intake and the shoebox carb. On go some nice aluminum pieces, and I'd do the light Performance RPM's from Edelbrock topped by a Holley Street Demon carb.
Heck guys, Ford Performance is still selling a big-block pushrod crate engine - 572 ci, 655 hp, 710 ft-lbs. WITH A CARB. You'd never get that kind of torque from a Coyote.
 
For the record, the Gen 3 coyote engine makes 460 horsepower and 420 ft-lbs torque and weighs 445 pounds, about 200 pounds less than the 390 FE engine.
 
True, but I'd give up the 200 lbs in weight (just a large passenger) for those 265 ft-lbs of torque any day. BUT all this predicates replacing the motor; is that really where our build is heading? Besides, if we wanted pure performance we can get that leaving the FE in there. Survival Motorsports has a 700+ HP stroker kit for an FE block. Do we want a dream build with a swapped motor? I'd rather hear folks ideas for other things: maybe back to better handling? THAT'S an admirable goal for these unibody cars. Has anyone tried anything outrageous there?
 
I love low end torque, for a street cruising Flairbird thats where its at. I realize that the Tbirds are a sports luxury car, but a little muscle under the hood would be quite fun. A sleeper for sure. I am not sure how easy that coyote engine with all its computer would be to drop in, but a Windsor block and 4R70W trans wouldn't be to big of a challenge.. Just check out the Ford Performance 427 Stroker. There are other crate engines out there for less money, but a pure Ford engine tops the list.

This: https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6007-Z2427FFT
and this: https://www.monstertransmission.com...ce-Transmission-2WD_p_11951.html#.XqWDJMhKjIU

I don't know much about suspension conversion, but I wonder if ther is any way to put a Mustang II front end under our unibody birds? Maybe someone will chime in who knows.. Please do..
Its fun to wish..😉
 
BTW: S'long, Tex. A Ford dealer at 20 (youngest ever). Moved a LOT of Birds. A true cowboy who taught us to treat "everyone like they were your Momma". RIP.f6564362-7822-41ba-b609-3c83f9807f62.jpg
 
Ouch! You'd pull that big beautiful FE for a small block? I'll grant it makes room for the one thing I've done that really wakes up a 390 (never was lucky enough to have a 428) - HEADERS. For all the mods to the top of the motor, getting rid of that uber-restrictive exhaust manifold for nice breathable headers seems to be the best single upgrade. The problem is (and it's my biggest design complaint) those huge wheel wells/shock towers. But FPA with their excellent if pricey "Shorty" headers (same model as my Bullet birds) would be my first pure-performance mod.


i have a 66 tbird im restoring ( check my story for progress ) with the 390fe that i got rebuilt NO not by me my engine builder of 30 years 🙂 and wanted to know what kind of headers will fit in that car becuz i heard its a bugger to get ones that fit .... anyone had success with that ????
 
Folks on this forum talk about Sanderson headers. Here's a link:

 
I would look at the new Godzilla 7.3. 4sp auto and some 3.50 gears. You should be able to swap the front suspension fairly easy. I believe the flairbird has the same removable sub frame as a bullet bird. I love the F/E, but a great resto mod needs a great modern engine.
 
I must also add that I would consider the IRS from the '88 or newer Third. It can be unbolted complete with it's own subframe and would make a nice upgrade.
 
So I went all in on my build for my recently acquired bird. I was going to respond to your thread of the Ultimate Restomod Flair bird. Maybe I will as well. Here are the parts I've bought:

**Suspension

-Aldan American Coilovers- Front

-Front and Rear heavy duty suspension

-I am trying to figure out what to do with the rear suspension. I was thinking of going with air suspension, not bags tho because I don't want an elaborate system and the maintenance involved with compressors.

**Wheels

- So after searching for weeks with no luck for wheels that would fit and are in stock, I finally found the size and setup after going to a tire shop and talking with the manager that actually happened to have a lot of experience with flair birds. I went with Vox Old School Wheels 17x7 all the way around and staggered tire setup. I ran into a problem with the front calipers and had to but wheel spacers. Instead of going with generic wheel spacers I went with custom made hub centric wheel spacers for $200. They were then finally able to fit properly.

I originally wanted at least 8's in the back but I wanted to keep the skirts on so it was risky and stuck with the 7's. I also found polished tri-bar spinners that actually fit the wheels.

**Transmission

I went with the Ford AOD HD kit from Monster Transmissions. it was very pricey but its a complete kit with the FE adapter. I chose 3.55 gear setup in the speedometer but will probably change that to 3.73 since I haven't actually bought the gearing yet.

**Engine

Holley Terminator Stealth EFI kit, distributor, spark .

Griffin Aluminum Radiator and dual fans.

Concept One Serpentine Pulley Kit with power steering and new ac comp.

Mild comp cams camshaft upgrade.

And tons of little odds and ends from tbird suppliers.

Let me know what you guys think.
 

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True, but I'd give up the 200 lbs in weight (just a large passenger) for those 265 ft-lbs of torque any day. BUT all this predicates replacing the motor; is that really where our build is heading? Besides, if we wanted pure performance we can get that leaving the FE in there. Survival Motorsports has a 700+ HP stroker kit for an FE block. Do we want a dream build with a swapped motor? I'd rather hear folks ideas for other things: maybe back to better handling? THAT'S an admirable goal for these unibody cars. Has anyone tried anything outrageous there?
Iam building a 64 with factory air, power windows, power seats. I did a rotisserie resto on the body have installed Viking coil over front suspension, larger sway bars. 525 hp LS3 4 speed auto trans, Baer disc brakes, upgraded the steering box to 14/1 ratio. I also added tilt to my swing away steering column. I have a Question has anyone updated the vaccuum controls on the air and heat to electric control. I dont want to reinvent the wheel if some one has done it before.
Thanks
 
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