1957 Thunderbird stops running after 1-2 seconds

[Mike Geary]

Help! I just purchased a 1957 Thunderbird several months ago. I did front brakes last Friday and once I had them installed and bled, I went to take the car out to check to see if the brakes felt right only to find that the car will start and run for 1 or 2 seconds and then shut down. It will restart but only run for 1 or 2 seconds. I checked fuel and the fuel system is fine, I changed the condenser and the coil but still no response. Can someone please tell me what the heck is going on with this bird? Thank you in advance, Mike

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 

[seeswell]

Help! I just purchased a 1957 Thunderbird several months ago. I did front brakes last Friday and once I had them installed and bled, I went to take the car out to check to see if the brakes felt right only to find that the car will start and run for 1 or 2 seconds and then shut down. It will restart but only run for 1 or 2 seconds. I checked fuel and the fuel system is fine, I changed the condenser and the coil but still no response. Can someone please tell me what the heck is going on with this bird? Thank you in advance, Mike nymeteddy@*******

 

[seeswell]

Did you check to see if the float is stuck?

 

[Gary Tayman]

Help! I just bought a 1964 Thunderbird, actually about 20 years ago, and still trying to figure things out. Mostly how to pay for all the stuff it needs.

A little more seriously, I would be more inclined to look at fuel, but we've got two things here -- fuel and spark. Has to be one or the other. Here's a question out of the clear blue -- does the choke open after you start it? If it doesn't kick open immediately the motor can stall. Maybe it's as simple as a vacuum line.

 

[Mike Geary]

Did you check to see if the float is stuck?

Yes, The fuel system is fine, I even took the front bowl off and checked the float and the seat.

 

[Wilding]

Help! I just purchased a 1957 Thunderbird several months ago. I did front brakes last Friday and once I had them installed and bled, I went to take the car out to check to see if the brakes felt right only to find that the car will start and run for 1 or 2 seconds and then shut down. It will restart but only run for 1 or 2 seconds. I checked fuel and the fuel system is fine, I changed the condenser and the coil but still no response. Can someone please tell me what the heck is going on with this bird? Thank you in advance, Mike

Check the ballast resistor, if it's bad the engine will start but not run after you release the key.

 

[handyman]

Had a similar situation with a 57 chevy, once, turned out to be the coil, might check that.

 

[Mike Geary]

Had a similar situation with a 57 chevy, once, turned out to be the coil, might check that.

 

[Mike Geary]

I put a new coil on and no change.

 

[handyman]

I put a new coil on and no change.

did you check the new coil to see if it was producing power?

 

[Mike Geary]

did you check the new coil to see if it was producing power?

Yes, and it is producing power.

 

[handyman]

Yes, and it is producing power.

wow, got to be missing something in the fuel or ignition,, nothing else left.

 

[Bobioknight]

Does it idle sitting in the garage fine without stalling. Does it die as your driving or when your accelerating from a stop. Is your temperature gauge displaying hotter than normal. Do you have a glass bowl fuel filter is it full when it dies, do you smell fuel when it dies. Is this a 312 with a four barrel.

 

[Mike Geary]

Does it idle sitting in the garage fine without stalling. Does it die as your driving or when your accelerating from a stop. Is your temperature gauge displaying hotter than normal. Do you have a glass bowl fuel filter is it full when it dies, do you smell fuel when it dies. Is this a 312 with a four barrel.

It will not idle. It runs for a second or two and shuts off. Fuel system is fine, good fuel pressure too.

 

[Mike Geary]

Check the ballast resistor, if it's bad the engine will start but not run after you release the key.

Thank you, that's worth a shot!

 

[Dale Leonard]

I had a 1957 ford that would run down the highway and after about 20 or 30 minutes it would just die. Would turn the ignition off and then restart the engine. Good for another 20 to 30 minutes. Found that the ballast resister wire inside it was broken. When it got hot it would separate and kill the engine. As soon as it cooled it would make contact and when I re-started the engine it would re-weld the wire togather until it got hot enough to separate. Like to have never figured out what the problem was. Replaced the ballast resister and never had another problem.
Dale in Florida

 

[Bobioknight]

ok. grab yourself a can of starter fluid, start the car and as it dies give it a little squirt into the carb, if it keeps running then you probably have a fuel problem. (Choke, fuel bowl level, plugged jets) If it still dies then you have an electrical issue. Fortunately for us, there are not many things to test. I am not sure your components will be getting too hot after just a couple seconds but I suppose heat or even just a vibration could cause a broken connection, so before changing out parts let's run a wire from your battery to your coil and start the engine, this will determine if your ignition or ignition wiring is the problem. If it still dies at this point I would suggest you change out your resister and coil, but first (in my opinion) I would suggest you convert to a pertronix ignition, if you do it now, you won't have to buy those parts a second time and it will make your life easier. (IMHO)

 

[Mike Geary]

ok. grab yourself a can of starter fluid, start the car and as it dies give it a little squirt into the carb, if it keeps running then you probably have a fuel problem. (Choke, fuel bowl level, plugged jets) If it still dies then you have an electrical issue. Fortunately for us, there are not many things to test. I am not sure your components will be getting too hot after just a couple seconds but I suppose heat or even just a vibration could cause a broken connection, so before changing out parts let's run a wire from your battery to your coil and start the engine, this will determine if your ignition or ignition wiring is the problem. If it still dies at this point I would suggest you change out your resister and coil, but first (in my opinion) I would suggest you convert to a pertronix ignition, if you do it now, you won't have to buy those parts a second time and it will make your life easier. (IMHO)

I had done most of what you suggested and now based upon your suggestions and one other, I'm figuring it has to be the resistor. I have one on order so I'll know in several days. Thanks to all for the suggestions and advice! Mike

 

[Dale Leonard]

Also quit using starting fluid as it has no lubrication in it. Carb and Choke cleaner does have lubrication in it and works just as good. Also it is a lot cheaper than starting fluid and not many people realize that it works great as a starting fluid.
Dale in florida

 

[Mike Geary]

Also quit using starting fluid as it has no lubrication in it. Carb and Choke cleaner does have lubrication in it and works just as good. Also it is a lot cheaper than starting fluid and not many people realize that it works great as a starting fluid.
Dale in florida

Never even thought about the lack of lubrication, good advice. :-J