1957 Thunderbird stops running after 1-2 seconds

[seeswell]

So does WD 40

This page contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated. As an eBay Partner, and Amazon Associate I may be compensated if you make a purchase at no cost to you.

 

[Bobioknight]

Never even thought about the lack of lubrication, good advice. :-J

Starting fluid is not bad for engines. I would expect they would be bad on two stroke engines that rely heavily on two stroke oil and gas mixture or Diesel engines because of early detonation. On our engines there would not be a cause for alarm, especially used as intended. Again, a quick squirt to see if the engine continues to run is all you need.

 

[doug7740]

From your symptoms I have to agree that you have a defective resistor. Since your engine starts and runs for 1 or 2 seconds, that tells me that there is fuel in the fuel bowl. If you had a defective fuel pump or a stuck float, the fuel bowl would be dry and the engine would not start at all. Also, I looked on the can of starting fluid that I use occasionally and it says; "Starting fluid with upper cylinder lubricant." Pyroil is the brand name on the starting fluid.

 

[Bobioknight]

Yea if it is not fuel and not ignition, the coil or resister has to be the problem. Did you happen to leave the key on while you were working on the brakes. If so you could have killed your coil, giving you enough power to start but quickly peters out as it needs to produce spark. It totally could be your resister but I still think it is something else. Which it is why it is probably your resistor, lol.

 

[Dale Leonard]

Inquiring minds want to know what you find out when you finally fix the problem.

 

[seeswell]

Recently replaced the resistor on my '57. Mine would not start at all however. No problem now.

 

[Mike Geary]

So does WD 40

Well gang, first I want to thank everyone for the help and suggestions. I got the new resistor and installed it only to have the same problem. Totally disgusted, I gutted the distributor of points and condenser and installed the electronic conversion. Once installed, the car fired right over on the first try. The only thing I can think of is that replacement condenser I installed earlier was also defective causing the car to react exactly as it did before the replacement. At any rate, it runs fine now and thanks again for the advice! Take care, Mike in Elma, NY

 

[seeswell]

Glad you got it figured out. I went to the electronic ignition and the engine never fired up as well as it does now.

 

[Mike Geary]

Glad you got it figured out. I went to the electronic ignition and the engine never fired up as well as it does now.

Agreed, I don't even need the choke to kick in, it just cranks right up now.

 

[1TrueGambit]

Hi I was just checking posts and I myself haven't worked on these type since the '80's but Handyman is right you should check the ballast-resistor and module that Ford has used on the coil,distributor ignitions cause what you are describing just trace back all of your electrical wiring that involves the coil and distributor l-ik0e I said I've been out of touch with this type of set-up for some time hope this gets you closer to getting where you need to be I've since been involved with the Thunderbird Super Coupes

 

[Bobioknight]

That's great! Have fun!

 

[seeswell]

Which electronic ignition conversion did you use?

 

[Mike Geary]

Which electronic ignition conversion did you use?

I used Pertronix, easy installation and the problem is solved.

 

[seeswell]

I used Pertronix, easy installation and the problem is solved.

Thanks Mike. I have a 292 sitting in the garage waiting to power a new project, when I find one that is, and was wondering if anyone was happy using something different from PerTronix. Did you replace the coil as well? I kept the original coil on my '57 Tbird w/o a problem.

 

[Mike Geary]

Yes, I did replace the coil during the trouble shooting process but I now have the original coil back in place and it works fine with the application.

 

[Bobioknight]

So your using the original coil and resistor with a pertronix, may I suggest that you calculate your resistance with your current setup. It will work for a little while with the wrong resistance, but you don't want to burn out your coil or pertronix on a trip or in the middle of an intersection. It's an easy test and you will rest easy.

 

[Mike Geary]

Yes, I did replace the coil during the trouble shooting process but I now have the original coil back in place and it works fine with the application.

So your using the original coil and resistor with a pertronix, may I suggest that you calculate your resistance with your current setup. It will work for a little while with the wrong resistance, but you don't want to burn out your coil or pertronix on a trip or in the middle of an intersection. It's an easy test and you will rest easy.

Okay, now you just flew over my head, how in morons terms (I'm feeling like one at the moment) do I conduct this test?

 

[Bobioknight]

Your pertronix should have the specs on a sheet for the amount of resistance it needs. I have the first version and it requires 8volts so I needed to read a total of 1.5 ohms at 12 volt. ( 12 / 1.5 = 8 )... Ok so take your volt meter set to ohms, disconnect the wires from your coil take a reading. Take that reading and divide it by 12 the total should equal the ohms needed by the pertronix. If your too high, then you need to add a resistor into the connection on the positive side of the coil then recheck your restance of the coil with the resistor, take that total and divide it by 12 and verify that matches what the pertronix needs.

There are many options for coils and you can match the resistance needed with a single coil or a coil resistor Combo. But don't run it too hot or too cold, your primary voltage should be within spec of the pertronix.

Don't worry about checking the secondary resistance by checking the coil wire that goes to your distributor, only the primary resistance matters testing the pos and negative posts on the coil.

Once you verify the correct resistance, you can open up the spark plug gap for bette performance if you would like.

 

[Mike Geary]

Your pertronix should have the specs on a sheet for the amount of resistance it needs. I have the first version and it requires 8volts so I needed to read a total of 1.5 ohms at 12 volt. ( 12 / 1.5 = 8 )... Ok so take your volt meter set to ohms, disconnect the wires from your coil take a reading. Take that reading and divide it by 12 the total should equal the ohms needed by the pertronix. If your too high, then you need to add a resistor into the connection on the positive side of the coil then recheck your restance of the coil with the resistor, take that total and divide it by 12 and verify that matches what the pertronix needs.

There are many options for coils and you can match the resistance needed with a single coil or a coil resistor Combo. But don't run it too hot or too cold, your primary voltage should be within spec of the pertronix.

Don't worry about checking the secondary resistance by checking the coil wire that goes to your distributor, only the primary resistance matters testing the pos and negative posts on the coil.

Once you verify the correct resistance, you can open up the spark plug gap for bette performance if you would like.

Wow Bobioknight, just when I thought I was home free you gave me some more homework. I need to read through the paperwork that came with the unit and brush up on my skills. I'll get to it Monday or Tuesday and let you know how (if) I made out okay. Thank you for the info, I hope I can get this done, I intend to drive this Bird from Buffalo to Dollywood Tennessee and back in September.

 

[seeswell]

Which pertronix unit did you get?