1957 rear right side brake sticking

[dsafian]

Hello,

I am new to the forum, and to the T-bird. I have a (new to me) '57 w/ a continental kit that I just got. The previous owner said that he had the brakes done recently. When pulling the car off the transport trailer, the Rear Passenger brake stuck. I got it up on the lift and pulled the wheel off to find that the wheel cylinder is fully extended and wont retract. I pulled the covers off, and the pistons are not stuck, but the plunger inside wont
depress. it's as if the brakes are engaged. The pedal moves as it should, and the Emergency brake isn't engaged. The brake lights are on though. Any feedback would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance!

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[ICON 56]

Is the original brake booster installed or a double..

 

[dsafian]

I’ve Never seen this…

 

[74 Harley]

Try pulling the brake pedal back up!
If the brake light is on you have pressure applied to the system.

 

[Tom Alpers]

From what you said it's just the one wheel that's locking. It's entirely possible the inside of that wheel cylinder is rusty and the piston stuck... the brakes have a lot more force pushing the piston out then the springs have pushing it back in so once it's out and stuck it probably won't be moving back. I would replace the wheel cylinder... $25 part. If the car is new to you, you might want to have them all looked at, bad ones replaced, and the brakes flushed. The photos you posted are of the master cylinder and the remote booster. That's what the car came with from the factory when it was ordered with power brakes. The booster may or may not be working, the brakes will still work as manual brakes for most failure modes of the booster.

 

[dsafian]

From what you said it's just the one wheel that's locking. It's entirely possible the inside of that wheel cylinder is rusty and the piston stuck... the brakes have a lot more force pushing the piston out then the springs have pushing it back in so once it's out and stuck it probably won't be moving back. I would replace the wheel cylinder... $25 part. If the car is new to you, you might want to have them all looked at, bad ones replaced, and the brakes flushed. The photos you posted are of the master cylinder and the remote booster. That's what the car came with from the factory when it was ordered with power brakes. The booster may or may not be working, the brakes will still work as manual brakes for most failure modes of the booster.

 

[74 Harley]

Quick question, how long has this car been sitting?

 

[MorrisonAF]

Hello,

I am new to the forum, and to the T-bird. I have a (new to me) '57 w/ a continental kit that I just got. The previous owner said that he had the brakes done recently. When pulling the car off the transport trailer, the Rear Passenger brake stuck. I got it up on the lift and pulled the wheel off to find that the wheel cylinder is fully extended and wont retract. I pulled the covers off, and the pistons are not stuck, but the plunger inside wont
depress. it's as if the brakes are engaged. The pedal moves as it should, and the Emergency brake isn't engaged. The brake lights are on though. Any feedback would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance!

I’ve had it where the brake lines are clogged with rust and gunk and it’s causing the fluid to move out but not back… just a suggestion, I went around pulling my hair out for the same wheel cylinder not getting any fluid.. the line was 99% clogged at the brake hose T with a pinhole opening allowing a drip..

 

[dsafian]

I’ve had it where the brake lines are clogged with rust and gunk and it’s causing the fluid to move out but not back… just a suggestion, I went around pulling my hair out for the same wheel cylinder not getting any fluid.. the line was 99% clogged at the brake hose T with a pinhole opening allowing a drip..

Thanks for this - it's what I suspect. The fluid isn't moving back into the reservoir properly.It looks like the previous owner replaced the cylinders, but re-used all the other rusted parts - the pistons are moving (not stuck) - but seems to be extended and stuck from the fluid not moving. I have to dig into it deeper, make sure the return spring is working...but while your theory doesn't explain the brake lights, but does make sense on the wheel cylinder.

 

[MorrisonAF]

Thanks for this - it's what I suspect. The fluid isn't moving back into the reservoir properly.It looks like the previous owner replaced the cylinders, but re-used all the other rusted parts - the pistons are moving (not stuck) - but seems to be extended and stuck from the fluid not moving. I have to dig into it deeper, make sure the return spring is working...but while your theory doesn't explain the brake lights, but does make sense on the wheel cylinder.

Is the brake light just stuck on? Also I put disc brakes on mine it utilizes a 78 corvette master cylinder and I’ll find out the booster year but they are direct bolt in.. but yea looking at those pictures I could definitely see corrosion being your problem..

 

[MorrisonAF]

Is the brake light just stuck on? Also I put disc brakes on mine it utilizes a 78 corvette master cylinder and I’ll find out the booster year but they are direct bolt in.. but yea looking at those pictures I could definitely see corrosion being your problem..

 

[Pink T-Bird]

Well, it seems like at least 2 problems. The fluid won't return from the RR cylinder AND there is enough residual pressure in the system to turn on the brake light switch.
To address the RR cylinder open the bleeder, catch the fluid and see what it looks like. Should be light yellow/straw color for DOT3 or DOT 4. it should not look like ice tea or black coffee. Silicon DOT5 is a different color, kinda purplish if I recall, but requires all new hydraulic system components because it is incompatible with DOT 3& 4. I believe read it "clots" when mixed together. You clearly did not get a car with all new hydraulic lines, master cylinder, and hoses. Clotting might be the answer to both problems?
Next you need to figure out why there is residual pressure at the brake light switch, or if it is a bad switch. I guess I'd remove the switch and see what the fluid looks like thet comes out when you relieve the pressure. if the light goes out you have something going on with the booster of MC and further diagnostics is required. If the light stays on with the switch connected electrically, but not in the system it's a bad switch..

 

[fordomanic]

Hello,

I am new to the forum, and to the T-bird. I have a (new to me) '57 w/ a continental kit that I just got. The previous owner said that he had the brakes done recently. When pulling the car off the transport trailer, the Rear Passenger brake stuck. I got it up on the lift and pulled the wheel off to find that the wheel cylinder is fully extended and wont retract. I pulled the covers off, and the pistons are not stuck, but the plunger inside wont
depress. it's as if the brakes are engaged. The pedal moves as it should, and the Emergency brake isn't engaged. The brake lights are on though. Any feedback would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance!

Well, it seems like at least 2 problems. The fluid won't return from the RR cylinder AND there is enough residual pressure in the system to turn on the brake light switch.
To address the RR cylinder open the bleeder, catch the fluid and see what it looks like. Should be light yellow/straw color for DOT3 or DOT 4. it should not look like ice tea or black coffee. Silicon DOT5 is a different color, kinda purplish if I recall, but requires all new hydraulic system components because it is incompatible with DOT 3& 4. I believe read it "clots" when mixed together. You clearly did not get a car with all new hydraulic lines, master cylinder, and hoses. Clotting might be the answer to both problems?
Next you need to figure out why there is residual pressure at the brake light switch, or if it is a bad switch. I guess I'd remove the switch and see what the fluid looks like thet comes out when you relieve the pressure. if the light goes out you have something going on with the booster of MC and further diagnostics is required. If the light stays on with the switch connected electrically, but not in the system it's a bad switch..

Soft lines will occasionally deteriorate internaly and when they collapse they can lock the brakes on.

 

[Pink T-Bird]

Soft lines will occasionally deteriorate internaly and when they collapse they can lock the brakes on.

Agree, however the soft line to the RR cylinder would also lock the LR cylinder, but that is not the case reported here. SO I'm not sure that is applicable to the RR cylinder issue. It almost seems like something (rust?) plugged the steel line from the T splitter on the axle to the RR cylinder, or maybe the transport truck driver wrapped his chain around he axle to load or secure the car and crimped that steel line closed.

Without going to look at my car to confirm, from memory there are three rubber lines in the brake system of our T-birds: frame to rear axle, frame to LF and frame to RF. I'm just working through how the hydraulics would work, and if one or even all of these hoses were internally collapsed they would not cause his brake light issue. The fluid on teh frame side of the collapse would just do its normal thing and relieve back into the MC. But it could cause any single or combination of these three things: both rear wheels locked, RF wheel locked, LF wheel locked.

Having said that I would replace all three if you suspect they are over 20 years old or have had DOT5 mixed in with DOT3 or 4, but that is more for safety (to avoid a hose rupture or internal collapse) than to address the problem reported here. When I bought my car the rear rubber hose appeared to still be the original, and the front hoses (best guess) were 30+ years old. The brake fluid looked like black coffee. They are all now new with fresh brake fluid.