1956 Threaded holes in frame

[swatson999]

Changing the brake light pressure switch and cleaning up, I found these two holes in the top of the frame, in the vicinity of right below the battery (but not apparently having anything to do with it)...appear to be threaded or rivnuts or helicoils or something. Querying and observing a couple of other 56s, looks like they're standard, but...*what for*? I can't find anything in any of the diagrams in the parts manuals for any model vehicle which seem to go there. What are these for? 🙂

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[paul5456]

The holes are for the clutch linkage for a standard shift car

 

[Bud Lewis]

Changing the brake light pressure switch and cleaning up, I found these two holes in the top of the frame, in the vicinity of right below the battery (but not apparently having anything to do with it)...appear to be threaded or rivnuts or helicoils or something. Querying and observing a couple of other 56s, looks like they're standard, but...*what for*? I can't find anything in any of the diagrams in the parts manuals for any model vehicle which seem to go there. What are these for? 🙂

View attachment 17653

May be the holes for the clutch linkage bracket on stick shift. I had to relocate my bracket to accommodate FE engine.

 

[Shawnski]

Those 2 holes are exactly as Ward57 suggest. They are the mounting holes for the clutch linkage on a manual shift vehicle. If you were to choose to install an electric fuel pump system from CASCO, these are used to attach their electric pump and filter system. I have installed this system as a back-up to the stock manual fuel pump. It works great! I heard many others say the electric pump needs to be near the fuel tank, and I agree to a point, but it really depends on the type of pump being used… This system works! In addition, having your stock (American version pump) rebuild by Arthur Gould Rebuilders @ $120.00 will take any fuel delivery issue off your maintenance list….

 

[jimntempe]

I just had my old pump rebuilt by Gould. For the first three trips (30 miles total) it worked great, never had to turn on my electric pump. But now I'm almost back to where I was. After about 5 miles the engine starves for fuel and I have to turn on the electric. then I'm back in biz. I think I'm going to thrown in the towel on the idea of a functional mechanical pump. I'm sure Gould would honor a warranty if I sent it back but I'm sick of RRing the same part. I had also had a Chinese pump on it that lasted about 5 minutes before crapping out.

 

[doug7740]

If you were to choose to install an electric fuel pump system from CASCO, these are used to attach their electric pump and filter system. I have installed this system as a back-up to the stock manual fuel pump. It works great! I heard many others say the electric pump needs to be near the fuel tank, and I agree to a point, but it really depends on the type of pump being used… This system works! In addition, having your stock (American version pump) rebuild by Arthur Gould Rebuilders @ $120.00 will take any fuel delivery issue off your maintenance list….

View attachment 21142

Looking at the picture of your fuel pump you might have problems because you have it hooked up backwards. The flex fuel line should be connected to the inlet which is near the radiator hose and you have it connected to the outlet which is closest to the engine block.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[Shawnski]

Yeah, it does look like it’s backwards, but it’s not. This version of Made in America pump actually has IN stamped on the inlet side and it’s opposite of most all the other pumps out there including the China pumps which I went through 3 before having Gould rebuild mine. I hope to get more than a couple of months out of the rebuild as I really don’t want to use the electric back up unit. I’m trying very hard to remain original as possible.

 

[Ward 57]

WOW! Doug is correct. Are you sure it's made in America? Never heard of an aftermarket pump made here. Thank heavens I have an original AC pump I had rebuilt. The only problem I had is that it put out so much pressure I had to cinch down my lines to the carb as it put out so much pressure those lines started to weap.

 

[doug7740]

Yeah, it does look like it’s backwards, but it’s not. This version of Made in America pump actually has IN stamped on the inlet side and it’s opposite of most all the other pumps out there including the China pumps which I went through 3 before having Gould rebuild mine. I hope to get more than a couple of months out of the rebuild as I really don’t want to use the electric back up unit. I’m trying very hard to remain original as possible.

Of all of the fuel pumps that I have rebuilt, I have never seen one with the word “IN” stamped on the outlet side of the fuel pump.

I checked the fuel pumps that I haven’t rebuilt yet and the AC fuel pump that is made in America has the word “IN” stamped on the inlet, which is near the radiator hose. The Airtex fuel pump also has the word “IN” stamped on the inlet, which is near the radiator hose and the Chinese fuel pump, which I will never rebuild, has no markings what so ever.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[doug7740]

WOW! Doug is correct. Are you sure it's made in America? Never heard of an aftermarket pump made here. Thank heavens I have an original AC pump I had rebuilt. The only problem I had is that it put out so much pressure I had to cinch down my lines to the carb as it put out so much pressure those lines started to weap.

Ward,

Putting a chinch in your fuel line is not the way to repair a fuel pump that has pressure that is too high, not to mention how dangerous it is.

When the pressure is too high, the cause is often a tight diaphragm, or fuel between the diaphragm layers, or a too strong diaphragm spring or a pump link that’s frozen to the rocker arm.

You should contact the person who rebuilt your fuel pump and send it back so it can be repaired properly.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[Shawnski]

Funny how thr

WOW! Doug is correct. Are you sure it's made in America? Never heard of an aftermarket pump made here. Thank heavens I have an original AC pump I had rebuilt. The only problem I had is that it put out so much pressure I had to cinch down my lines to the carb as it put out so much pressure those lines started to wea

 

[Ward 57]

Ward,

Putting a chinch in your fuel line is not the way to repair a fuel pump that has pressure that is too high, not to mention how dangerous it is.

When the pressure is too high, the cause is often a tight diaphragm, or fuel between the diaphragm layers, or a too strong diaphragm spring or a pump link that’s frozen to the rocker arm.

You should contact the person who rebuilt your fuel pump and send it back so it can be repaired properly.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

You misunderstood my terminology. In the use I meant to say I had to tighten the connections as the pump was putting out much more pressure after the rebuild. It works perfectly now. I had it rebuilt as a diaphragm must have cracked and was leaking out the weep hole.

 

[Shawnski]

Funny as there seems to be so many fuel pumps out there. My original is not an AC unit, but it is made in the USA, and the inlet is right at the frame cross member which from my readings, was always and issue with getting the flex line on or off and that's why I installed a 90 degree fitting. I don't know for sure, but I believe this is the original pump from 1956. It also has a FoMoCo tag on it, which would certainly lead me to believe its original. I've up-loaded several pictures of the pump from when I sent it to Arthur Gould to be rebuilt.
I had purchased an Airtek early on in this endeavor to correct my fuel issues as I was under the impression that they were made in the USA. That turned out to be false as they used to be, now they are made in China. Then I purchased one from NAPA which stated it was made by Carter.... Yeah, in China! I went through 2 of these before finally finding Arthur Gould via this forum site. By the way, all of the units made in China did NOT have any marking as to which line was inlet or outlet... I had to figure that out myself and all of them were the opposite of my original (this) pump....

 

[Ward 57]

Funny as there seems to be soView attachment 21178View attachment 21179View attachment 21180View attachment 21181View attachment 21182View attachment 21183 many fuel pumps out there. My original is not an AC unit, but it is made in the USA, and the inlet is right at the frame cross member which from my readings, was always and issue with getting the flex line on or off and that's why I installed a 90 degree fitting. I don't know for sure, but I believe this is the original pump from 1956. It also has a FoMoCo tag on it, which would certainly lead me to believe its original. I've up-loaded several pictures of the pump from when I sent it to Arthur Gould to be rebuilt.
I had purchased an Airtek early on in this endeavor to correct my fuel issues as I was under the impression that they were made in the USA. That turned out to be false as they used to be, now they are made in China. Then I purchased one from NAPA which stated it was made by Carter.... Yeah, in China! I went through 2 of these before finally finding Arthur Gould via this forum site. By the way, all of the units made in China did NOT have any marking as to which line was inlet or outlet... I had to figure that out myself and all of them were the opposite of my original (this) pump....

I think you have a unicorn part there. Definitely a FOMO part. I wonder if it came from the parts dept. that serviced the dealers and a different supplier than their production line. Somebody in the past may have put on a dealer supplied part.
When I bought my replacement carb from a dealer back in the 70's It came with a fuel line that comes from the bottom to the side of the inlet away from the air cleaner.

 

[doug7740]

You misunderstood my terminology. In the use I meant to say I had to tighten the connections as the pump was putting out much more pressure after the rebuild. It works perfectly now. I had it rebuilt as a diaphragm must have cracked and was leaking out the weep hole.

Sorry for the misunderstanding.

Since the leak through the vent holes was fuel, the lower pump diaphragm has split allowing fuel to seep to the top of the diaphragm and exit through the vent holes. If the leak through the vent holes was oil, the diaphragm shaft seal is worn or the seal retainer has dislodged from the housing and is allowing oil to pass the seal into the vent cavity. Both of these are common problems on the fuel pumps I have rebuilt.

If you had fuel leaking out of the vent holes make sure you change the oil and filter, because the fuel has entered the crankcase.

doug7740
1955 Thunderbird Blue

 

[paul5456]

I have both an original pump and a U.S. made aftermarket pump and the inlet is the one closest to the radiator hose (The front hole).